In The Kitchen

Today, to please my v. old, foody friend Mr Kerr (late of Estate Bottled Foods and known to us variously as 'Cassoulet Dave' or 'Dave the Duck'), we did a morning's work 'helping' in the kitchen of Le Comptoir de St Genes.

All who eat out and make a fuss in restaurants should try seeing what it feels like the other side of the swinging doors.

I do not want to see another courgette. I peeled a whole box. And then she (Lucie) served up the peelings! With carrot shavings and called ‘vegetable tagliatelli.’ Dave meanwhile was crying in the corner; peeling a sack of onions.

That was the quiet bit. Then the customers arrived and the shouting started. People and plates flying everywhere. You know, it’s very hard NOT to leave thumbprints on plates. I was in trouble for that. So got put on the 'plonge'. Not as bad as I imagined. Due mostly to the industrial dishwasher that only takes two minutes. On the other hand you have to wash everything! Even the cooker... well, the exposed bits.

After 50 lunches though, you are pretty knackered. But we can have a glass or three of Vincent's 'house' rosé, go home and collapse. The others bounce back for the evening shift on 3 hours. Still smiling. As Lucie says it’s good fun but you do have to be mad to do it. "And young", I'd add.

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