Chablis is not rioting. A lad making unnecessary noise with his bike and a man double-parked fetching his baguettes ...is about as lawless as it gets in Chablis tonight.
Hostellerie du Clos. Marvellous dinner with the Dampts. It's been such a long time. 20 years? 'Oeufs meurette' (poached eggs in a broth - THE local speciality) then Sole with tiny cepes. With whites; 2009 then 1999 then gradually back to 'the miracle', one of those bottles that I will never forget; Emmanuel's first wine; his 1990.
Much younger wines showed their age tonight - still delightful but a little browned, mature charms etc. but this... 20 years old but fresh as a green young wine... but with a well-tuned orchestra of extra flavours a young wine cannot possibly have. A glassful you could stick your nose in and be quietly happy all night. A wine that taunts you "for all your science, little men, you'll never work out how I manage to do this!"
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