But winemakers with a passion, with unbreakable spirit, with brains, with a dream are drawn to such places. We love 'em. Up past St Martin de Londres, down narrow tracks, through the green oak forests we find Martin Orliac; fourth son of Jean & Marie Therese. And a winery built of wood! Like so many in California and Oregon! But France? Unique as far as I know.
Back in the Sixties Martin's father Jean was an agronomist at Montpellier University. He got the urge to put theory into practice when, tramping these wild crags and woods, he found these recently abandoned vineyards and olive groves.
They planted immaculately tended rows of Syrah. Then other varieties, built the winery and gradually built up a cult following of the faithful across France. Most of their wine is sold to people prepared to find their way to this remote spot.
We get some because of 'family'. Jean-Marc's delightful niece Sylvie (of Chateau Thieuly, Bordeaux) is now married to Jean-François, the eldest Orliac boy.
Tasting with
Martin Orliac
The wine we get from them is called Dolines de l'Hortus. Up here in this rocky limestone land (karst scenery if there are any geographers here) you get these green bowls where the ground has caved-in due to caverns collapsing below. Sediment has accumulated and things – like vines – can grow. Called 'Dolines'. Fascinating, eh? Things you learn with us.
The family, bar Martin, have decamped to Bordeaux for the Big Show tomorrow (Vinexpo) and indeed we must now set off for the same place in Mark's Chai van, the 'Popemobile'. Not really looking forward to the drive. But it was a great trip. I am a lucky old swine, aren't I? Share my job satisfaction. Buy the case of the trip. And maybe catch the Flybe to Perpignan.
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