Drinks at Duclot with Tonton

"Salon 1999 magnum, Lafite 1995, Margaux 2001, Mouton 1986, Cheval Blanc 2001, Petrus 1998, Haut Brion 2000, Latour 1990, Yquem 1997, ****, man! I'll buy a suit for you to come with me next time, I wish I could share this with you. Missing you, xxx Tonton".

Edited text from Jean-Marc to Mark as he staggered home from the sort of drinks party you get invited to in Bordeaux when Vinexpo is on.

J-MS hit the wrong button so I got it by mistake. He likes all his winemakers to call him 'tonton' (uncle) and is clearly fond of them.

I didn't need it; I was at the same bash … given by Duclot the finest negociant in Bordeaux who only handle top stuff – and top buyers of course. I was in a taxi home to Ste Colombe. Asleep.

Jean Moueix is only 28 and Managing Director of this House. His family owns Petrus. He knows how to put on a party. The room was three-quarters Oriental. And most of them were young, too. In fact I am sure I was the oldest. So this is what it’s like being a Grandfather.

Had got back from the Midi – get a better car, Mark, as well as a suit – and had a quiet day … until this evening. Bordeaux was 'en Fête' – not for the Wine Show (which the Bordelais hate as it screws the traffic for a week) – but for the River Show. Beautiful; the 'Belem' and other old sail ships lining the Quais and a right old party going on where you used to see just barrels and other freight being loaded. I really am old! Nice to see.

Jean and Olivier Berrouet, his Petrus winemaker, said they'd packed off their Dads and organised this 'young' event. We sat on high white stools at high white tables. Girls brought tiny dishes of tiny delicacies – I think the Chinese buyers liked this – and chaps poured decanter after decanter of perfect, priceless wines in pairs. We had to guess the wines and vintages. And not fall off our white stools.

I'm not saying how I did.