Carcassonne to Narbonne

Today's first visit left us speechless. So best perhaps leave it at that.

Secondly we met up with Hervé and Laurent at the little cellar where we buy a Merlot called Domaine Ginestieres which we are lucky enough to have specially made for us by Claude Gros. Robert Parker has scored I don't know how many Claude Gros wines and meets with up with him every year for half a day; an honour accorded to very few, anywhere. Jancis Robinson has called him the 'Chameleon Winemaker'. I think I know what you mean, Jancis.

Gros likes to blend into the background … not a big chap, quiet, self effacing. Bounces in. Trainers, dress-down, haversack. Quick taste, chat, photo opp. Bounces out again. Has to keep moving; the number of clients he has. Consults all over. Here – his home territory – Bordeaux, Burgundy. They say he is the new Michel Rolland (Wine Consultant to the Stars, now getting on a bit). Some would contest that, but Claude is certainly always with the leading runners.

His wine for us is just superb. I hope people take the time to appreciate it. Good Midi wines for me are full of vibrancy, life, flavour, zest and charm. But what Jean adds (like Jean-Marc and Mark) is polish and poise. Like little wine couturiers dressing their pretty girls! Oh my! Pseuds Corner here we come. It’s late at night.

How to see if you agree? Try drinking the Ginestieres (turn to pages 4 & 5 in this month’s list, it’s in The Summer Case 2011) on its own as an aperitif. Most reds, that's not fun. You need the beef with. Some lighter Beaulolais type fruity things, yes. But this is not light and fruity. This is a proper full red, but its smooth creamy elegance (now, not in x year's time) makes this a delight to drink … on its own.

Hervé and Laurent's 11th Century office is in Château Prat de Cest - what was a fortress on the old Roman road from Spain, just south of Narbonne. Not a bad address. We tasted so much lovely stuff there it’s all a bit of a blur. I'll have to get Cat to remind me.

H and L ... and good old Andrée (or Madame F as we now call her) continue the way we have always worked here, in what is the largest wine region in the world … and possibly the most underestimated. 40 years now we have scoured these rugged hills for what Hervé calls "les petits cuvées qui vont bien".

We have a label called 'L'Epervier' - the Sparrow Hawk. Named because of the way our agents must hover tirelessly over this area looks for choice tidbits. Les petits cuves qui vont bien. Is exactly it. Amazing little finds. Always way cheaper than anything comparable elsewhere in France.

Here, we don't so much have long affiliations with the same chateaux. Some, not many. Costs too much. Instead our agents search and search until "Bingo!" … we find one. Be it in a little co-op, an estate or a garage under his house like Jean Charles. I love working this way. Very exciting.

But here we are now, after dark, sitting out under the pine trees eating fish from the lagoon at a little place called 'Souquet's' (run, just in Summer, by the guys who have 'Le Petit Comptoir'; best place to eat in Narbonne). It’s up a very long, narrow and rutted track. I would guess plenty would-be diners give up halfway and turn round thinking they must be lost!

We are on La Clape. (Pron. 'Clap'). The little rocky plateau between Narbonne and the sea that was an island in Roman times. I used to sell huge amounts from up here. Mostly to doctors for some reason. Château de Pech Redon. Any customer who's been around over 23 years will remember Pech Redon. Jean Demolombe! What a man! All those wives. All those wines. Lived life at such a speed and died so sadly. And bravely. I've never been up to the great house since. Pech Redon is still made. Still quite good, apparently, but without Jean … can't do it. Must be just over ridge from where I'm sitting though.

Anyway, here we are with Andrée who carries on Jean's good work. And Hervé, who is just as wickedly witty as he was. Under the stars with the aromas of the warm pines, the sage, rosemary, thyme, growing all around and the woodsmoke … one of life's better moments.