Tuesday, 15 March 2011
Mendoza
The journey from the frontier post to Mendoza wasn't two hours but five. And mostly barren desert. You only get green things here where there's a river from the Andes. Mendoza has a big river. It was a bit of a rough place but in the last decade has become a very pleasant town to visit, with several nice hotels and loads of restaurants and bars. The streets are all tree-lined and shaded. Water channels and fountains. Cool place, in both senses.
So now, loads of wine enthusiasts come here for wine visits. March/April, best. (Then they might hop to Santiago - a 40 min, rather spectacular flight - and do the same there). Amazing Wines, Amazing Beef, Amazing Mountains, plus lovely, friendly people. What's not to like here?
We staggered around 9pm into our rather smart, new hotel lobby like prospectors from the desert. Us and luggage covered in dust. Reception looking concerned.
Tasted the 'terroir'? Man, we'd eaten it.
View from hotel room to west. Andes v misty today. Rain forecast.
This morning memorable sight of wife taking the luggage into her shower! (They all cleaned up well). After, we walked to the food market and sat by the fountains in the park. Bit of a rest.
Then we bowled out of Mendoza on an impressive highway. Which suddenly stopped. Suddenly we were on very rutted earth amongst shanty-ish houses. Thought we'd been kidnapped. But this is just Argentina ... doesn't always quite join up. But who cares? It's very exciting. And colourful. And on a roll.
Then, there was a big black steel gate slid open and we are out of the hubbub and ruts - which turn out to be roadworks (it's election year so governments always start building lots of roads) and into a peaceful garden and foodie place. And in for a good working lunch with several wine producers.
Getting the Big Reception here because we are a bit of a star turn. Oh Yes! Argentina finds the UK a tough market. (Whereas USA is nuts for it.) But Laithwaites customers lap up Malbec etc from here faster than we can ship it. (True, shipping can be a nightmare from here.) We did over 20% of all UK Argie imports last year and three of our Top Twenty are from here. So it's red carpet time.
To Alma Andina cellars, run by an Aussie; Steve McEwen ... (big, bearded Flying Winemaker who got married and decided to stay put ... as you do) ... with his big mate; the ubiquitous Opi Sadler consulting. Amazing four-level-deep old cellars from 1883 ... kept immaculate, the Aussie way.
Lots of photos with Yves going flat out to record everything he can. Sadly has to fly home tomorrow for another job.
We all go round to a well known wine restaurant 'Asafran' for a final meal altogether - all ten of us. Got the big round table in the wine cellar - a bit too cool for humans - but they give you ponchos to wear ... and the choice of Argentine wine is enormous and temptingly all around you!
I have never travelled with such a huge team before. And it worried me for several reasons. Like our winemakers are very generous and invite us to stay and put on wonderful meals ... "and can my nine friends come too?" Sounds pushy.
But it's been great. We have captured so many images ... We can, I hope, now make Chile and Argentina come really alive for customers. And the winemakers all like this.
And we ain't finished yet. Kit and Gang are staying till next week doing both film and stills, now. Barbara and I are here till Saturday. The sun still shines. And there's another ten winemakers waiting.
Yes, I know, you can't call this a proper job, can you?
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