How Laithwaites happened. Part eight

So way back in the 70's, guided by my H Johnson Atlas – the Germans call it Der Grosse Johnston! – I wine-trekked happily onwards.

The Rhone Valley was very welcoming; Monsieur had three good addresses there; people who belonged to his 'quality' group.

With my 'wine-next-door' orientation I passed on the good Dr Dufays of Domaine Nalys, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, preferring old Pierre Rivier who ran the co-op at Chusclan next door. For years he would tell people of the day he waved goodbye to a whole vanload of his Côtes-du-Rhône, unpaid-for, driven off by this scruffy, long-haired Brit who slept in his van. On top of the wine. He didn't really ever expect to be paid. But ... we have never stopped buying from Chusclan, ever since. It's now his grandson who runs the cellar.

East across the river at Sablet, the other great find, was the man I always considered my best friend in wine; André Roux. (Now finally retired despite all my threats and entreaties). I once wrote to customers that I'd buy wine from André even if I didn't like it. Not perhaps the best selling point ever. But true. Partly because he was so kind, modest, solicitous and gentle; not characteristics you associate with genius. He certainly was a bit of a genius, so how could I - a wine 'beginner' - ever refuse a wine he offered? I didn't, and they all sold so easily.

He, like Chusclan, and Jean Dubernet in the Midi made red wine by Maceration Carbonique or 'whole bunch' fermentation which kept more fruit flavours in the wines. Many experts dismissed them as unserious wines that didn't keep. Wrong! We did huge sales of these wines and I still enjoy 30 year old bottles from André.

I always chose wines with very obvious appeal. Subtlety? Not really 'me', I suppose. I was born in Bolton after all.

But that didn't mean wines without passion. No, quite the reverse. I tended always to go back to the cellars that gave me the most exciting visits and tastings. That's quite understandable isn't it?

I could go on. And on and on. And I do - as any customer knows.

But that's it for today ... because I'm at a conference and they like us to pay attention.