New manager Marein (prev. @ Lockbottom shop), filled the place to bursting. All v friendly too. No heckling. Laughed at my jokes; I really enjoyed it.
We served the Theale sparkler in black tights... not us - the bottles - a way of disguising them. I hoped to fool them all into thinking it Champagne. But of course they guessed something was up and guessed what it was after a few goes. But all agreed it was up there with Champers.
They loved Jean Marc's extra special sauvignon blanc; 'JMS', and his 'La Voute', the chardonnay from several regions of France which breaks the Appellation rules...
Or did. They've now changed the rules so in future this wine can come under the catch-all appellation; 'Vin de Pays de France' and we can put 'chardonnay' on the label. This is new, this vintage. It is a great victory over the wine dinosaurs, a wonderful opportunity for creative winemakers and at last allows France to compete with countries like Australia and South Africa without having one hand tied behind her back.
The 'PS' gently sparkling pink from Provence was a winner. As was my boy Henry's 'Verniotte' 2008 which is lovely to drink already, (for these tastings I am allowed to choose wines I am close to). So of course I had to follow with my own 'Presbytere' 2005 - not ready yet... still tight but quietly impressive I feel. But then I would, wouldn't I?
'The Moonlighters' from Red Heads finessed off the reds and we finished with the 'Grand Chai Sauternes' which, in half bottles, has come on so beautifully since we bottled it two summers ago. Thanks for a great evening, South Croydon.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Sunday, 31 October 2010
Saturday, 30 October 2010
Wetter times.
Our lovely young solicitor brings her new baby on a fact finding tour of the Laithwaites. She's on maternity, but fancied seeing for herself what we are all about.
She is wise, of course... important to know your clients / customers as well as you can. Our old solicitor knew us intimately, what with having been my rugby captain in youth and the most reassuring figure in all the many scrapes and fights we got into in our early days; all part and parcel of being a small, struggling outfit.
There she was, feeding the mite in reception at Theale. Showed her round the shop, the offices, and the vineyard... but not the sad, empty warehouse. Since all the wine was relocated to the much bigger Gloucester. Theale warehouse is so silent. So sad. Such happy memories. But the offices were buzzing.
Then we went over to Wyfold. And the rain poured. So we only looked from afar. The frosts have knocked off most leaves, anywhere. Back to bare. Barbara and Cherry got those grapes in the nick of time. Analysis good by the way. Mike very complimentary. Juice fizzing away happily.
Then a quick coffee and baby change and off to the Henley office; my office. Then over to Marlow to see Henry's big new vineyard... We started with less than half an acre at Theale, then went to over two acres at Wyfold and now almost ten at Pump Lane, Marlow.
Still pouring rain. But she's a determined girl. All she missed was Will's brewery in Abingdon. And Tom, somewhere in the air, going back to Oz. And that's it; a complete tour of the drink-obsessed Laithwaites.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
She is wise, of course... important to know your clients / customers as well as you can. Our old solicitor knew us intimately, what with having been my rugby captain in youth and the most reassuring figure in all the many scrapes and fights we got into in our early days; all part and parcel of being a small, struggling outfit.
There she was, feeding the mite in reception at Theale. Showed her round the shop, the offices, and the vineyard... but not the sad, empty warehouse. Since all the wine was relocated to the much bigger Gloucester. Theale warehouse is so silent. So sad. Such happy memories. But the offices were buzzing.
Then we went over to Wyfold. And the rain poured. So we only looked from afar. The frosts have knocked off most leaves, anywhere. Back to bare. Barbara and Cherry got those grapes in the nick of time. Analysis good by the way. Mike very complimentary. Juice fizzing away happily.
Then a quick coffee and baby change and off to the Henley office; my office. Then over to Marlow to see Henry's big new vineyard... We started with less than half an acre at Theale, then went to over two acres at Wyfold and now almost ten at Pump Lane, Marlow.
Still pouring rain. But she's a determined girl. All she missed was Will's brewery in Abingdon. And Tom, somewhere in the air, going back to Oz. And that's it; a complete tour of the drink-obsessed Laithwaites.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 29 October 2010
Home, England. Calmer times.
Just writing. Writing, writing, writing. Get a lunch + update from Simon the Supersonic. Just hearing his schedule makes me feel tired. I went pretty fast myself, in my younger days, but not this speed. The man is constantly circling the planet. Must be BA's favourite customer.
I can't tell you the plans he's got for expansion... Literally, I can't tell you; he forbids it. Stealth, apparently, is important. Meanwhile he is changing things a lot at home.
Like that new big list we sent out last month. Now that is a gamble. Traditionally we send out lots of bits of paper. Why? Because that works. Don't ask me why, nobody really likes lots of bits of paper - all over the floor, usually. But they work.
However we have decided to do what customers asked us for in many letters, surveys etc; less, and better, bumpf. Hope they don't just enjoy the read. Hope they order, too!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
I can't tell you the plans he's got for expansion... Literally, I can't tell you; he forbids it. Stealth, apparently, is important. Meanwhile he is changing things a lot at home.
Like that new big list we sent out last month. Now that is a gamble. Traditionally we send out lots of bits of paper. Why? Because that works. Don't ask me why, nobody really likes lots of bits of paper - all over the floor, usually. But they work.
However we have decided to do what customers asked us for in many letters, surveys etc; less, and better, bumpf. Hope they don't just enjoy the read. Hope they order, too!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 27 October 2010
Diary of a Chevalier
It was the sound of the French hunting horns that got to me....not sure why. Not a hunting man. Not very musical. But those ancient instruments have that deep, rich, slightly scary tone which is more than just a musical sound - it is a stirrer of the blood and piercer of the heart.
My late mother - who was musical - loved the sound of the French horn above all, and made me listen. Maybe that was why I was standing in the dark, in the drizzle, in a great medieval Burgundian courtyard, with a new silver tastevin cup on a red and gold ribbon round my neck, ...trying not to cry! Or maybe it was the emotion of finally getting here to this hallowed place after so many years..
The horns blared out their hunting calls through the night. I loved it. But it got to me.
Tonight I was taken to Clos Vougeot by Alain, Bernard and Francois and inducted as a Chevalier de Tastevin.
It was black tie. The ceremony was short and witty, the company very international, the feelings very warm. The subsequent dinner was long; six delectable courses, six magnificent wines, it was musical and boisterous. All 600 of us joined in all the choruses and waved the arms. Rabelaisian is the word. And indeed the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin does say it takes its inspiration from that great personage who embodies - lots of body - that part the French character we never have any problems with.
The Irish Ambassador presided over the festivities and he was brilliant. Irish wit in perfect French ... but with a brogue. For my part I was publicly reprimanded by the Grand Maitre, for parental negligence, having misdirected my sons. "One is a brewer! (groans), one is making wine in Bordeaux! (loud groans) ..and one...in Australia!! (very load groans and jeers ...but not serious, I think).
Anyway by the end I knew better than I've ever known why I was not stupid to come into the business of wine. I might argue which wine region does wine best - silly argument anyway - but it is definitely Burgundians who are best at Celebrating The Joy that wine gives us.
Meanwhile, outside, according to the BBC, France was tearing itself apart. Apparently. Are they making it all up? Drove to Lyon, flew home, as did hundreds of other. Pas de problem anywhere.
You don't really want to know what we ate and drank, but well, it's not going to happen often that I get the chance to swallow...
Snails done in a cream of Epoisses cheese
With a white Hautes-Cotes de Nuits 2007
Sandre Roti (I think that is perch)
With a Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2008
Oeufs en Meurette
With a Santenay 2000
Filet de Daguet (young venison)
With a Gevre-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnet 1999
Burgundian cheeses (more Epoisses!)
With a Corton Grand Cru Bressandes 2002
A very large snail was then paraded around the room. But it was our dessert; an ice cream sculpture.
Enough.
It's crisp bread and water next week.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
My late mother - who was musical - loved the sound of the French horn above all, and made me listen. Maybe that was why I was standing in the dark, in the drizzle, in a great medieval Burgundian courtyard, with a new silver tastevin cup on a red and gold ribbon round my neck, ...trying not to cry! Or maybe it was the emotion of finally getting here to this hallowed place after so many years..
The horns blared out their hunting calls through the night. I loved it. But it got to me.
It was black tie. The ceremony was short and witty, the company very international, the feelings very warm. The subsequent dinner was long; six delectable courses, six magnificent wines, it was musical and boisterous. All 600 of us joined in all the choruses and waved the arms. Rabelaisian is the word. And indeed the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin does say it takes its inspiration from that great personage who embodies - lots of body - that part the French character we never have any problems with.
The Irish Ambassador presided over the festivities and he was brilliant. Irish wit in perfect French ... but with a brogue. For my part I was publicly reprimanded by the Grand Maitre, for parental negligence, having misdirected my sons. "One is a brewer! (groans), one is making wine in Bordeaux! (loud groans) ..and one...in Australia!! (very load groans and jeers ...but not serious, I think).
Anyway by the end I knew better than I've ever known why I was not stupid to come into the business of wine. I might argue which wine region does wine best - silly argument anyway - but it is definitely Burgundians who are best at Celebrating The Joy that wine gives us.
Meanwhile, outside, according to the BBC, France was tearing itself apart. Apparently. Are they making it all up? Drove to Lyon, flew home, as did hundreds of other. Pas de problem anywhere.
You don't really want to know what we ate and drank, but well, it's not going to happen often that I get the chance to swallow...
Snails done in a cream of Epoisses cheese
With a white Hautes-Cotes de Nuits 2007
Sandre Roti (I think that is perch)
With a Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2008
Oeufs en Meurette
With a Santenay 2000
Filet de Daguet (young venison)
With a Gevre-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnet 1999
Burgundian cheeses (more Epoisses!)
With a Corton Grand Cru Bressandes 2002
A very large snail was then paraded around the room. But it was our dessert; an ice cream sculpture.
Enough.
It's crisp bread and water next week.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Montagny
Montagny is a pretty village and an excellent though not too expensive white Appellation Controllee on the Côte Chalonnais.
Always a favourite of mine for its reliability and versatility... and its relative affordability!.... I still remember as a young wine merchant in the 70's wandering through the village with a list of recent medal-winners, banging on doors, asking if any of them wanted me to sell their wine in the UK. None did. Burgundy is difficult that way.
Then, about 25 years ago I fell in with Bernard Derain at nearby Mancey and he introduced me to his best friend; Alain who, it just so happened, was the heir to the only actual Chateau in the village; Chateau de Saule. It dominates the place.
Alain didn't actually live there; his mother did. I never actually met her - I would scuttle in the back way to the cellars. By all accounts she was a very severe lady of the old school. And Alain was a naughty boy. Still is. You can tell that just looking at him.
But Alain made the wine and did it well. We seemed to be kindred spirits so I got my precious Montagny at last.
Every trip I call in, we do the cellar. He hadn't been keen on barrels - he was a purist tank man - so one year, I offered to pay for his first barrels... and the result converted him.
I never cease to remind him it was me showed him how to make wine and he always then tells me just where I can shove...etc. ...then he rustles up a nice 100% meat meal in the old stately home and we put the world to rights. (Mother is no longer with us).
I took a rather superior Aussie winemaker to Alain's once. One of those who think only the New World does things properly and that French winemakers are probably dodgy. He tasted and asked the usual questions about degree, acidity, colour levels etc. When Alain gave him the numbers, every time he queried. "Oui, mais..Naturel"? Alain managed to answer politely three times then lost it, drew himself up to full height - admittedly not a great height - and assured the man, "you ask me one more time, I place the toe of my boot up your 'fesses' so you can know exactly how 'natural' that is"!
It broke the ice! Now 'Naturel' is his and Bernard's catchphrase.
Every year - except this, sadly - Alain and Bernard turn up at our London show where they now have a big fan base. They pour like crazy till everything is gone then head out, giggling, into the London night. I have no idea what they get up to.
Great visit today. His '09's are cracking stuff.
But it was all too quick; we had to get back and all dolled up for The Big Night.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Always a favourite of mine for its reliability and versatility... and its relative affordability!.... I still remember as a young wine merchant in the 70's wandering through the village with a list of recent medal-winners, banging on doors, asking if any of them wanted me to sell their wine in the UK. None did. Burgundy is difficult that way.
Alain didn't actually live there; his mother did. I never actually met her - I would scuttle in the back way to the cellars. By all accounts she was a very severe lady of the old school. And Alain was a naughty boy. Still is. You can tell that just looking at him.
But Alain made the wine and did it well. We seemed to be kindred spirits so I got my precious Montagny at last.
Every trip I call in, we do the cellar. He hadn't been keen on barrels - he was a purist tank man - so one year, I offered to pay for his first barrels... and the result converted him.
I never cease to remind him it was me showed him how to make wine and he always then tells me just where I can shove...etc. ...then he rustles up a nice 100% meat meal in the old stately home and we put the world to rights. (Mother is no longer with us).
I took a rather superior Aussie winemaker to Alain's once. One of those who think only the New World does things properly and that French winemakers are probably dodgy. He tasted and asked the usual questions about degree, acidity, colour levels etc. When Alain gave him the numbers, every time he queried. "Oui, mais..Naturel"? Alain managed to answer politely three times then lost it, drew himself up to full height - admittedly not a great height - and assured the man, "you ask me one more time, I place the toe of my boot up your 'fesses' so you can know exactly how 'natural' that is"!
It broke the ice! Now 'Naturel' is his and Bernard's catchphrase.
Every year - except this, sadly - Alain and Bernard turn up at our London show where they now have a big fan base. They pour like crazy till everything is gone then head out, giggling, into the London night. I have no idea what they get up to.
Great visit today. His '09's are cracking stuff.
But it was all too quick; we had to get back and all dolled up for The Big Night.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 26 October 2010
Beaune and Volnay
Drive economically back to Beaune. Just of the Autoroute; the 'Ermitage de Corton', friendly family hotel. And Bernard comes for dinner. Bernard is my best friend in wine. Despite spending my whole life in Bordeaux I think I must have a Burgundian soul. Worryingly, he is talking of retirement and introducing successors. So, upset, I lose my cool and hit the trough which, of course, is so dreadfully easy in Burgundy.
The following morning Bernard and I do Beaune market together. You just want to buy everything. The mushrooms, cêpes and truffles... Oh, what aromas... to die for. Possibly quite literally. Yves is clicking away all the time - between coughs! is not well! - two ladies bustle up; "so who are they? Are they famous?" Yves gets the shots of us convulsed with laughter he's been after all morning. Buy very pongy alpine cheese. Then go to Volnay.
Just south of Beaune. Bang on the door of the Bitouzet family and young Francois takes us for a steep walk up to his 'Taille Pieds' vineyard (Premier Cru). Now gold in colour, like most of the vineyards since the frost. Hence, I suppose, the name; 'Cote d'Or'. 'Golden slope'? Heart pounding. But may just be that steepness.
Our reward is a session in the cellars with Francois. Started with a Meursault '09 then a Puligny Montrachet '09.
There is nothing in the whole world of wine quite like a tasting in the small cellar of a small Burgundian wine producer. Unlike Bordeaux there's a huge range. Every 'parcelle' of land is vinified and sold separately. So you start with the simpler, younger white and work up to the precious 'Premieres and Grands. Then you repeat the process with the reds.
Then there's the chat. These guys study their wines in micro detail so each wine comes with the grower's view, not just on what it tastes like, but how it evolves in the barrel, in the bottle and in the mouth. These chaps get up very early in the morning for the ploughing and pruning stuff. Cellar work is often evenings when no-ones around. Afternoons are often for this opening of bottles and leisurely hours with clients. It is a mistake to plan for a rapid visit.
Notes.
Meursault '08 'les corbin'.
Cracking.
Puligny Mont '08 'les levrons.'
Is "Fringant" they say and I realise that after many years use I don't really know what that word means. Sort of a 'Wake up' or frisky wine apparently. Bernard is fringant he says...a 'vieillard fringant'.
Meursault '08 'les sentenants'
Red soil but they make white here. More tannic and mineral. Prefer meursault no 1. Gd food wine tho' - for red meats too.
Meursault 08' les perrieres'
Green rich. 2nd fave. Opens up in mouth.
Volnay '07 'taille pieds'
Virile! Typic of this parcelle. 'Pas mal du tout' says Bernard Vonay.
07 'les pitures'
... richer, starwberry, cherry, long, youthful but uber smooth. Hint of smokey sweet oak. Volnay '05 'taille pieds'
Still quite firm. Not an overt crowd pleaser. Tart cherry stone palate. Skin tannins.
1er cru vougeot '05 'bertagna'
Smooth, pinot noir, smooth..ready to drink..
1er cru Ladoix '07 'les grechots chevalier' 07
There were more as we went round barrels of the amazing '09's, but I must've dropped my notes!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
The following morning Bernard and I do Beaune market together. You just want to buy everything. The mushrooms, cêpes and truffles... Oh, what aromas... to die for. Possibly quite literally. Yves is clicking away all the time - between coughs! is not well! - two ladies bustle up; "so who are they? Are they famous?" Yves gets the shots of us convulsed with laughter he's been after all morning. Buy very pongy alpine cheese. Then go to Volnay.
Just south of Beaune. Bang on the door of the Bitouzet family and young Francois takes us for a steep walk up to his 'Taille Pieds' vineyard (Premier Cru). Now gold in colour, like most of the vineyards since the frost. Hence, I suppose, the name; 'Cote d'Or'. 'Golden slope'? Heart pounding. But may just be that steepness.
Our reward is a session in the cellars with Francois. Started with a Meursault '09 then a Puligny Montrachet '09.
There is nothing in the whole world of wine quite like a tasting in the small cellar of a small Burgundian wine producer. Unlike Bordeaux there's a huge range. Every 'parcelle' of land is vinified and sold separately. So you start with the simpler, younger white and work up to the precious 'Premieres and Grands. Then you repeat the process with the reds.
Then there's the chat. These guys study their wines in micro detail so each wine comes with the grower's view, not just on what it tastes like, but how it evolves in the barrel, in the bottle and in the mouth. These chaps get up very early in the morning for the ploughing and pruning stuff. Cellar work is often evenings when no-ones around. Afternoons are often for this opening of bottles and leisurely hours with clients. It is a mistake to plan for a rapid visit.
Notes.
Meursault '08 'les corbin'.
Cracking.
Puligny Mont '08 'les levrons.'
Is "Fringant" they say and I realise that after many years use I don't really know what that word means. Sort of a 'Wake up' or frisky wine apparently. Bernard is fringant he says...a 'vieillard fringant'.
Meursault '08 'les sentenants'
Red soil but they make white here. More tannic and mineral. Prefer meursault no 1. Gd food wine tho' - for red meats too.
Meursault 08' les perrieres'
Green rich. 2nd fave. Opens up in mouth.
Volnay '07 'taille pieds'
Virile! Typic of this parcelle. 'Pas mal du tout' says Bernard Vonay.
07 'les pitures'
... richer, starwberry, cherry, long, youthful but uber smooth. Hint of smokey sweet oak. Volnay '05 'taille pieds'
Still quite firm. Not an overt crowd pleaser. Tart cherry stone palate. Skin tannins.
1er cru vougeot '05 'bertagna'
Smooth, pinot noir, smooth..ready to drink..
1er cru Ladoix '07 'les grechots chevalier' 07
There were more as we went round barrels of the amazing '09's, but I must've dropped my notes!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Monday, 25 October 2010
Tonnerre
After the cellar visit (the cellar that Hervé Dampt built for a third the price of a builder which is the sort of thing these three brothers do to stay so competitive) then tasting ('09's are a wow and '010 looking good already) get taken by Eric and Nadia and the young Hervé to Tonnerre - white wine - (and Epineuil - reds mostly); the next-door wine region(s) that so nearly vanished. Not a 'Little Chablis' but separate region - the next valley - just not well known.
The Dampts do Chablis extremely well, but they were the family who really brought Tonnerre back to life. It is their passion. "Before phylloxera a region more important than Chablis" ... "Sandwiched between the borders of Chablis and Champagne.. they had to chose which way they were to go...". I cannot remember it all. Passionate? More like obsession. But that's good for us.
We taste their delicatate 2009 Pinot Noir; so pungently 'cherries' you'd think they actually put cherries in it. But it’s just the way the Pinot comes out here if done well; so so pretty, but so much work in the vineyard... being so 'borderline'.
Edward III burnt this town down and drank 6000 barrels of Tonnerre but they don't seem to bear a grudge.
Visted the old Hospices then called on Olivier at Chateau Vaulicheres who's wine the Dampts make.. in the old days - pre-1926 - his family sold grapes to one of the best known Champagne houses... as I said, this is a vineyard right on the borders.
With us and providing the historical stuff today was Jean-Paul who comes regularly to man the Dampt stand at our wine fairs (usually with a fellow lawyer they all refer to as 'Watson', English, and so in love with Chablis he's bought a vineyard here... and who has a actress daughter who's name I cannot give you or I'll be turned into a toad. But she's done a harvest for the Dampts.
Today, like yesterday, was a day full of all that's really wonderful in wine; history, countryside, friends and good cheese.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
The Dampts do Chablis extremely well, but they were the family who really brought Tonnerre back to life. It is their passion. "Before phylloxera a region more important than Chablis" ... "Sandwiched between the borders of Chablis and Champagne.. they had to chose which way they were to go...". I cannot remember it all. Passionate? More like obsession. But that's good for us.
We taste their delicatate 2009 Pinot Noir; so pungently 'cherries' you'd think they actually put cherries in it. But it’s just the way the Pinot comes out here if done well; so so pretty, but so much work in the vineyard... being so 'borderline'.
Edward III burnt this town down and drank 6000 barrels of Tonnerre but they don't seem to bear a grudge.
Visted the old Hospices then called on Olivier at Chateau Vaulicheres who's wine the Dampts make.. in the old days - pre-1926 - his family sold grapes to one of the best known Champagne houses... as I said, this is a vineyard right on the borders.
With us and providing the historical stuff today was Jean-Paul who comes regularly to man the Dampt stand at our wine fairs (usually with a fellow lawyer they all refer to as 'Watson', English, and so in love with Chablis he's bought a vineyard here... and who has a actress daughter who's name I cannot give you or I'll be turned into a toad. But she's done a harvest for the Dampts.
Today, like yesterday, was a day full of all that's really wonderful in wine; history, countryside, friends and good cheese.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Sunday, 24 October 2010
Chablis
Chablis is not rioting. A lad making unnecessary noise with his bike and a man double-parked fetching his baguettes ...is about as lawless as it gets in Chablis tonight.
Hostellerie du Clos. Marvellous dinner with the Dampts. It's been such a long time. 20 years? 'Oeufs meurette' (poached eggs in a broth - THE local speciality) then Sole with tiny cepes. With whites; 2009 then 1999 then gradually back to 'the miracle', one of those bottles that I will never forget; Emmanuel's first wine; his 1990.
Much younger wines showed their age tonight - still delightful but a little browned, mature charms etc. but this... 20 years old but fresh as a green young wine... but with a well-tuned orchestra of extra flavours a young wine cannot possibly have. A glassful you could stick your nose in and be quietly happy all night. A wine that taunts you "for all your science, little men, you'll never work out how I manage to do this!"
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Hostellerie du Clos. Marvellous dinner with the Dampts. It's been such a long time. 20 years? 'Oeufs meurette' (poached eggs in a broth - THE local speciality) then Sole with tiny cepes. With whites; 2009 then 1999 then gradually back to 'the miracle', one of those bottles that I will never forget; Emmanuel's first wine; his 1990.
Much younger wines showed their age tonight - still delightful but a little browned, mature charms etc. but this... 20 years old but fresh as a green young wine... but with a well-tuned orchestra of extra flavours a young wine cannot possibly have. A glassful you could stick your nose in and be quietly happy all night. A wine that taunts you "for all your science, little men, you'll never work out how I manage to do this!"
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 23 October 2010
Beaujolais
This is going to be an interesting trip. France riots, roadblocks and no fuel apparently. Mmm! But then there's Yves our regular French photographer saying "Faut pas être paranoide, Tony". All very well for someone spends much of his time embedded with US troops in Afghanistan. Everything is relative. Anyway BA is flying and I'm aboard. Che sera, sera.
....And we landed... eerily quiet Lyon airport, but not blockaded. So up to Beaujolais and Jean-Marc Pardon.
There he is by the side of the main street, loading our truck with the last of the Vielle Vignes Fleurie '09 that won the Decanter trophy and that's selling extremely well right now. I say 'our' truck. It's got Irish number plates and a Polish driver but the labels all say 'Laithwaites'.
We try the 2010 Nouveau ... good but we haven't bought it. Helen and I are focused on these amazing '09's. We may not see their like again.
Then into the vineyards to see these ancient vines - planted 1902 - that give forth this nectar. The little, low 'goblet' vines at their most beautiful; lots of reds and golds in the green. So lots of photos.
Writing this (Blackberry) sitting on the cold granite ground in Jean-Marc's Fleurie vineyard as the sun goes down... and Yves takes his 300th shot. Frostbite in the B; bloody photograpers!
Ah but here's a nice email about the new list - or magazine as some are calling it;
"...much better - more wines, more collections and some good offers. Also interesting information about producers and wine types.
I also have to say that your phone staff are the best... more knowledgeable than any other sales people I have encountered. They must walk around in a constant alcoholic haze through sampling so many of your wines! I think it was Sally who took my order last week - brilliant phone manner and knowledge - persuaded me to spend more than intended - and that is not a complaint!"
Asked if I could quote him, he added;
" ...no problem with Tony or anybody else at Laithwaites sharing my comments via his blog or any other medium you choose. It is just great to be able to buy great wine at reasonable prices from a company that obviously looks after it's staff well and employs people on it's phone lines with knowledge and an excellent phone manner whilst trusting them to show flexibility to ensure customers are satisfied."
Thank you Peter Smith. Great encouragement.
Now let's see if we can get to Chablis without blockades or running out of diesel.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
....And we landed... eerily quiet Lyon airport, but not blockaded. So up to Beaujolais and Jean-Marc Pardon.
There he is by the side of the main street, loading our truck with the last of the Vielle Vignes Fleurie '09 that won the Decanter trophy and that's selling extremely well right now. I say 'our' truck. It's got Irish number plates and a Polish driver but the labels all say 'Laithwaites'.
We try the 2010 Nouveau ... good but we haven't bought it. Helen and I are focused on these amazing '09's. We may not see their like again.
Then into the vineyards to see these ancient vines - planted 1902 - that give forth this nectar. The little, low 'goblet' vines at their most beautiful; lots of reds and golds in the green. So lots of photos.
Writing this (Blackberry) sitting on the cold granite ground in Jean-Marc's Fleurie vineyard as the sun goes down... and Yves takes his 300th shot. Frostbite in the B; bloody photograpers!
Ah but here's a nice email about the new list - or magazine as some are calling it;
"...much better - more wines, more collections and some good offers. Also interesting information about producers and wine types.
I also have to say that your phone staff are the best... more knowledgeable than any other sales people I have encountered. They must walk around in a constant alcoholic haze through sampling so many of your wines! I think it was Sally who took my order last week - brilliant phone manner and knowledge - persuaded me to spend more than intended - and that is not a complaint!"
Asked if I could quote him, he added;
" ...no problem with Tony or anybody else at Laithwaites sharing my comments via his blog or any other medium you choose. It is just great to be able to buy great wine at reasonable prices from a company that obviously looks after it's staff well and employs people on it's phone lines with knowledge and an excellent phone manner whilst trusting them to show flexibility to ensure customers are satisfied."
Thank you Peter Smith. Great encouragement.
Now let's see if we can get to Chablis without blockades or running out of diesel.
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Friday, 22 October 2010
Wyfold day 2
Final, final moment of the 2010 vintage for me. This is the volunteer picking team at Wyfold on Sunday the 17th October. A bunch of very good friends put in a morning's hard work for which Barbara and Cherry are EXTREMELY grateful. The weather held. Frost in the morning but bright sun. Big 'phew' moment for the girls (foreground).
Amazingly - given our wet summer - there was a very manageable amount of rot...pickers were able to flick off the dodgy grapes. Ian Dunn (known to millions at Laithwaites wine events) was at another English vineyard yesterday and said our fruit just looked so much healthier...so well done B and Cherry (who has been clucking over her grapes like a mother hen these last weeks). And especially our Lee on the tractor. 2010 easily the best ever vintage in this particular vineyard.
Amazingly - given our wet summer - there was a very manageable amount of rot...pickers were able to flick off the dodgy grapes. Ian Dunn (known to millions at Laithwaites wine events) was at another English vineyard yesterday and said our fruit just looked so much healthier...so well done B and Cherry (who has been clucking over her grapes like a mother hen these last weeks). And especially our Lee on the tractor. 2010 easily the best ever vintage in this particular vineyard.
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Thursday, 21 October 2010
Back from French vintage to....English vintage.
The weather held off just long enough for Cherry and Barbara to get in their Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Large numbers of villagers, friends and Laithwaites people roped in for 3 or more hours hard labour in return for a glass of the Wyfold 2006 Sparkler (only available from the vineyard.. £17.99 a bottle), a gorgeous mouthful of fine bubbles after a hard morning's work, even if served in plastic. Plus hot soup, cold lunch. Looking happy here because it's almost over.
Wednesday, 20 October 2010
Hill Of Doom
Morning on the Hill of Doom (steep) vineyard bringing in most of the Cabernet (Franc). Much assisted by Tanja from Germany (runs our office there) and some of the good people from 'Die Welt am Sontag'. Gosh they have energy. Anglo-American-Aussie-German team sorts the fruit after lunch. Anyway, they really speeded up the process so there's only a bit left for tomorrow. I'll be able to skive off and go make my Adieus to all, for tomorrow PM I fly home.
Bernadette is outstanding today with a wonderful Paella. Despite the physical labour these last weeks the fact that I am only comfortable in my tracksuit with the elastic waistband indicates I've probably put on a stone or so this harvest. So now the Fat B is even fatter. So certainly in one sense a 'great' vintage. Probably in the real sense too; small berries, virtually all well overripe, but very healthy. My hunch is lush, lip staining, fat, round wines to enjoy sooner rather than later.
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Tuesday, 19 October 2010
The Dordogne
Henry thinks it'll be good to give the Cabernets a final boost of sun before picking tomorrow. So Barry (Hemingway) Smith, the mountain man from Montana and I take to the water on this unexpected day off. 
Monsieur Cassin gave me his old wooden canoe and beautifully restored now it's just wonderful for two old guys to potter about with the electric motor, watching the rowing crews sweating hard in front of the Chai au Quai. Lovely sunny day. Just remember the fishing line next year, Barry.
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Monday, 18 October 2010
La Clariere and Verniotte
Good day's picking in sunshine for team Verniotte... The Anglo-American-Australian team if you can just imagine that! The ground has dried so no problems with traction and the old Toyota takes in a record haul. We finally knocked off the last of the Merlot today. Rewarded with huge helpings of Lasagna from Bernadette.
Sunday, 17 October 2010
Weather clears. Sun returns. Real Indian Summer. Or Japanese?
Having been filmed by two different camera crews this week we thought it was all over. But having afterwork beers outside the Comptoir de Ste Genes (pic), this car roars up and a Japanese film crew leap out. The polite young lady from Osaka TV bows and asks if she can film us typical locals having a typical glass of wine. Beer glasses?...gone in a flash, free wine poured and there we are clinking glasses going "mmmm" as we hope the good people of Osaka expect French people to do. Except we are English, Australian and American. But they'll probably never know; sip, roll eyes, go "Mmmm...Castillon"!
Kate our PR girl tells me we just won 'Best Retail Call Centre' in the UK with a score of 91.32% in the UK’s biggest ever call centre benchmarking exercise. The research consisted of 18,500 mystery shopping enquiries to over 50 of the UK’s leading call centres apparently. Timeliness, ease of use, reliability, staff knowledge and personalised service were what counted apparently. Well they missed the one about ours being THE nicest people you could ever get on the phone.
I see lots more of them now they come out here to work and I can tell you they don't just act lovely, they really are.
Maybe it helps we don't call ours a 'Call Centre'. Because it isn't. The people on our phones are some of the best qualified wine merchants in the land, so that's what we call them.
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Kate our PR girl tells me we just won 'Best Retail Call Centre' in the UK with a score of 91.32% in the UK’s biggest ever call centre benchmarking exercise. The research consisted of 18,500 mystery shopping enquiries to over 50 of the UK’s leading call centres apparently. Timeliness, ease of use, reliability, staff knowledge and personalised service were what counted apparently. Well they missed the one about ours being THE nicest people you could ever get on the phone.
I see lots more of them now they come out here to work and I can tell you they don't just act lovely, they really are.
Maybe it helps we don't call ours a 'Call Centre'. Because it isn't. The people on our phones are some of the best qualified wine merchants in the land, so that's what we call them.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 16 October 2010
Harvesting restarts
As it happens the two steepest vineyards. We don't have a tractor; we use the good old Toyota Landcruiser; a car that knows no fear. Except in wet mud. Because we don't have the right tyres. So there's a merry game trying to get up the slopes.
Mad Henry races at slope, gets halfway, then car, trailer and several hundredweight of prize grapes begin a slow, elegantly curved slide all wheels locked, back towards steep drop. We scatter.
I do wish I'd been quicker with the camera. The only piece I filmed is the last bit... went boringly OK.
Friday, 15 October 2010
A wet Sunday. No harvesting.
Go to Libourne market. Years since I've been. And it’s a great market. Last time here saw a disreputable looking guy acting very suspicious with a sack of .... stolen goods? ... when police car erupted into the square and four burly cops surrounded him. But not an arrest; they just wanted the first 'ceps'.
'Ceps' are in today. Not local; not enough rain till today. But from Correze. Always sold by gangsters. Or gangster lookalikes.
They figure you for a tourist and you always have to return the first bag which with sleight of hand they fill with diseased looking junk. It’s a ritual. Super choice of breads and cheeses. It’s a delight. Even in a downpour.
Last night we had sat out eating Hannah's wood-fired oven pizzas in the yard.. so warm. But tonight we light a big fire in the kitchen to dry out. Phil and Lauren just arrived from Oz - Phil is Henry's winemaking mentor, makes the wonderful Longwood wines with the Red Heads McLaren crowd - and immediately cooks us a Coq au Vin. Hannah has a rival. This competition is good for the rest of us.
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'Ceps' are in today. Not local; not enough rain till today. But from Correze. Always sold by gangsters. Or gangster lookalikes.
They figure you for a tourist and you always have to return the first bag which with sleight of hand they fill with diseased looking junk. It’s a ritual. Super choice of breads and cheeses. It’s a delight. Even in a downpour.
Last night we had sat out eating Hannah's wood-fired oven pizzas in the yard.. so warm. But tonight we light a big fire in the kitchen to dry out. Phil and Lauren just arrived from Oz - Phil is Henry's winemaking mentor, makes the wonderful Longwood wines with the Red Heads McLaren crowd - and immediately cooks us a Coq au Vin. Hannah has a rival. This competition is good for the rest of us.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Thursday, 14 October 2010
During harvest in France, we had a visit from a very special customer:
Michael who lives in the grounds of Windsor Castle. And the Castle - the Lower Ward (we know our place) - has been a customer since the early seventies. Michael helped us pick for a while, then provided me with a good excuse to escape and give him a tour.
Then, a film crew turned up to complicate things so I didn't really get back to harvesting. Hugh Johnson's son, Red was helping us gather harvesting etc images. So with Michael playing the 'customer' role we did La Clariere and the Chai au Quai before harvester lunch. (Duck sausage).
Then they filmed us sorting. Doing our little sorting-dance.
Afterwards, we covered the countryside of Castillon which I adore. Bosky Arcadia sort of thing. And it is looking just splendid right now, vine leaves going red and gold. We get Anne-Marie to come with us in case anyone gets upset at the cameras. But not necessary. They love their 'pays' being filmed here.
We finished at magnificent Monbadon - a classic Norman fortress. We are filming - all C13th - when a very C21st harvester like something from a Transformers film cuts right across the scene...just feet away. Serendipity.. Castillon Ancient and Modern.
Beers at Anne-Marie's Comptoir then a chicken dinner at home.
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Then, a film crew turned up to complicate things so I didn't really get back to harvesting. Hugh Johnson's son, Red was helping us gather harvesting etc images. So with Michael playing the 'customer' role we did La Clariere and the Chai au Quai before harvester lunch. (Duck sausage).
Then they filmed us sorting. Doing our little sorting-dance.
Afterwards, we covered the countryside of Castillon which I adore. Bosky Arcadia sort of thing. And it is looking just splendid right now, vine leaves going red and gold. We get Anne-Marie to come with us in case anyone gets upset at the cameras. But not necessary. They love their 'pays' being filmed here.
We finished at magnificent Monbadon - a classic Norman fortress. We are filming - all C13th - when a very C21st harvester like something from a Transformers film cuts right across the scene...just feet away. Serendipity.. Castillon Ancient and Modern.
Beers at Anne-Marie's Comptoir then a chicken dinner at home.
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Wednesday, 13 October 2010
Got early text message from Jean-Marc:
"If you want to see something funny come to Ste Radegonde."
Ste Rad is a good co-op cellar where we used to do a lot of our Flying Winemaker production. And it's where we first met Jean Marc. Anyway, seems he'd volunteered all our buying team to do them a 'decuvaison'. Reckoned they needed to know about the harder side of winemaking.
Decuvaison is when a wine has finished fermenting and the liquid drawn off.... you then have to get inside the tank and shovel out the solid remains; skins and pips.
So down you go into the tank that reeks incredibly of wine and by the light of one lightbulb you get shovelling. For a good half hour. It's hot work. And you feel drunk on fumes.
So there's Justin and Thomas leading their girls into getting covered in skins, stained and stained with dark red blotches of lees. Not looking their best. But nobody bottled out! Ho ho.
Pretty good as a team building exercise.. Though Elf and Safety would have a fit if they knew so we won't tell them.
I did quite enough of this stuff in my youth so I just take photos.
Ste Rad is a good co-op cellar where we used to do a lot of our Flying Winemaker production. And it's where we first met Jean Marc. Anyway, seems he'd volunteered all our buying team to do them a 'decuvaison'. Reckoned they needed to know about the harder side of winemaking.
Decuvaison is when a wine has finished fermenting and the liquid drawn off.... you then have to get inside the tank and shovel out the solid remains; skins and pips. So there's Justin and Thomas leading their girls into getting covered in skins, stained and stained with dark red blotches of lees. Not looking their best. But nobody bottled out! Ho ho.
Pretty good as a team building exercise.. Though Elf and Safety would have a fit if they knew so we won't tell them.
I did quite enough of this stuff in my youth so I just take photos.
Tuesday, 12 October 2010
Today the buyers team came over for a couple of day get-together.
I've never known them do this before. And they were going to experience harvesting 'from the other side'. But they started well. Their flight got them here just in time for lunch... one of Bernadette's harvest lunches. Roast beef it was. What with all us plus the Chai team and buyers it was a packed hall.Then the buyers were led off to find out what it is like to pick grapes. Then they did some sorting, then they went and had blending classes from Jean-Marc and Mark. In the evening J-MS and the others did everyone a meal in the Dordogne Chai. No caterers. All their own work. Merguez and steak cooked on a braize. Memorable. Or would be if I could remember.
Monday, 11 October 2010
Ste Colombe Harvest
Today we got everyone off the phones at Le Chai for an hour or so (calls re-routed to Theale) to give us a hand harvesting. They came very willingly.
Weather good. Nice to be outside. So we had the biggest team ever and got a lot picked. We sorted it all that afternoon. So have been given tomorrow off. Partly due to the continuing good weather and Henry wanting to get maximum maturity. The colour is amazing this year. Last year was great. But this year the grape skins just seem to bleed the minute you touch them.
Anyway that's four days hard harvesting. Ache all over. Now apparently we are to stand down till after the weekend.
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Weather good. Nice to be outside. So we had the biggest team ever and got a lot picked. We sorted it all that afternoon. So have been given tomorrow off. Partly due to the continuing good weather and Henry wanting to get maximum maturity. The colour is amazing this year. Last year was great. But this year the grape skins just seem to bleed the minute you touch them.
Anyway that's four days hard harvesting. Ache all over. Now apparently we are to stand down till after the weekend.
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Saturday, 9 October 2010
Harvest/Vintage Ste Colombe
Stumble out just pre-dawn, load up. The Landcruiser tows the trailer with the bins. The Landrover follows. In case.
Crest the ridge as the red sun crests the next ridge.
Four to a row. Secateurs and basket. Two hod carriers. Is Henry's way. It's the old way.
Four to a row gives you breaks; you do your dozen vines then leapfrog the others. You get to the end quicker; psychologically.
But you are alone. Down low in your vine cell. Grapes are only a foot off the ground. Do you bend? Do you kneel? Squat? Sit? Crawl? You do all those. And others... Sharing the pain around the body. Snip snip snip - ow! The hoddies loom up and you must struggle upright, lift and tip your heavy basket. Ridiculously tall, some hoddies.
So it goes from 8am. till 12. Fill maybe 8 or 10 tubs. You dream of what Bernadette will serve. Pea soup today, a Nicoise, Fricassé of Pork, cheese, dessert coffee. But you've earned it. Henry doesn't pay his family or friends. Food and a T-shirt is it!
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Crest the ridge as the red sun crests the next ridge.
Four to a row. Secateurs and basket. Two hod carriers. Is Henry's way. It's the old way.
Four to a row gives you breaks; you do your dozen vines then leapfrog the others. You get to the end quicker; psychologically.
But you are alone. Down low in your vine cell. Grapes are only a foot off the ground. Do you bend? Do you kneel? Squat? Sit? Crawl? You do all those. And others... Sharing the pain around the body. Snip snip snip - ow! The hoddies loom up and you must struggle upright, lift and tip your heavy basket. Ridiculously tall, some hoddies.
So it goes from 8am. till 12. Fill maybe 8 or 10 tubs. You dream of what Bernadette will serve. Pea soup today, a Nicoise, Fricassé of Pork, cheese, dessert coffee. But you've earned it. Henry doesn't pay his family or friends. Food and a T-shirt is it!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 8 October 2010
Ste Colombe
A strange day. Third day of harvest. The dogs had vanished in the dark. So we start without them and their owners.
Bending to it. Big red sun just clearing the trees. So sore. Makes me crabby. Dogs are found. We move onto the second vineyard. Preparing to attack. Henry's empty car rolls forward, leaps off the three foot bank and hammers into neighbour's vines! Expensive! Was it the dogs? Or some automatic car driver forgetting that cars with manual gears have a thing called a 'brake'?
Dogs, obviously!
Lunch is steak!! Cooked on a fire of vine cutting outside! For some reason I fall asleep at the table.
Afternoon we sort. Which means no bending. Music is rock. To keep us awake. The evening a lost little old Frenchman wanders in. Has had his car stolen. Alert Gendarmes. Then his wife turns up a bit cross because the car is just the other side of the church. "Happens all the time" say Gendarmes when I apologise. Hannah from Montana does Burritos for dinner. Wonderful. Collapso.
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Bending to it. Big red sun just clearing the trees. So sore. Makes me crabby. Dogs are found. We move onto the second vineyard. Preparing to attack. Henry's empty car rolls forward, leaps off the three foot bank and hammers into neighbour's vines! Expensive! Was it the dogs? Or some automatic car driver forgetting that cars with manual gears have a thing called a 'brake'?
Dogs, obviously!
Afternoon we sort. Which means no bending. Music is rock. To keep us awake. The evening a lost little old Frenchman wanders in. Has had his car stolen. Alert Gendarmes. Then his wife turns up a bit cross because the car is just the other side of the church. "Happens all the time" say Gendarmes when I apologise. Hannah from Montana does Burritos for dinner. Wonderful. Collapso.
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Thursday, 7 October 2010
We pick at last!
At 6 this morning the darkness was shattered by an invasion of harvesting machines. Like someone threw a switch, the vineyards around are thrumming and lit up. I go back to bed.
Realising the alarm has failed, stumble unwashed into a kitchen of hungry Yankees. Take them to the bakery to smell the smell, see the fire, and buy warm baguettes. And the rest.
Just a touch late we are on the top of the hill and it's not raining. Very pleasant really. Lovely views across the Dordogne valley and to Saint Emilion. We bend to it willingly. Well, almost. Two hours later a break... for water! He's so thoughful our boss Henry.
The drizzle when it comes isn't SO bad. You get used to it down your neck. The views vanish and the mud clings so you grow an extra two inches. We accelerate. Cries of "Hod! Hod!" (We can go get dry when we fill all the tubs).
Takes till noon. Off to the winery and Bernadette's food. I can't remember when Bernadette didn't do the harvest food. She was Madame Cassin's assistant. Today it's vegetable soup - proper rustic soup of vegetables in broth - then hors thingies of pasta balls peppers olives tuna etc - then roast pork with white beans - then cheeses - then pear tarte and coffee in the glass which previously was for your wine or water... or both.
After which, taken leisurely, you feel like a new man. Or woman. And you leap off to work again like it was morning.
It's P...ing down now. Henry is delighted. He wants the rain to knock back the sugar richness in his grapes. Without it we'd have a 16 degree wine and puritans would be leaping all over us. Just glad we don't have to go out and work in it.
For, after lunch we stay in the cellar to process what we picked. Seeing everybody in their disposable plastic aprons and rubber gloves, looks more like an episode of 'ER' than a winery. Things change.
I remember a long, long time ago the first time I took a couple of buyers from M&S into a French winery. They'd bought the wine but being as M&S had only just gone into wine, never seen a winery.
They flipped. "But everyone has to wear hair-nets, overalls and rubber boots"! I translated for the foreman. I thought it best not to translate his reply.
But here we are... apart the hair-nets and you bet health and safety will bring that in soon.
We sort it all by 6. Good day. Nice juice.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Realising the alarm has failed, stumble unwashed into a kitchen of hungry Yankees. Take them to the bakery to smell the smell, see the fire, and buy warm baguettes. And the rest.
Just a touch late we are on the top of the hill and it's not raining. Very pleasant really. Lovely views across the Dordogne valley and to Saint Emilion. We bend to it willingly. Well, almost. Two hours later a break... for water! He's so thoughful our boss Henry.
The drizzle when it comes isn't SO bad. You get used to it down your neck. The views vanish and the mud clings so you grow an extra two inches. We accelerate. Cries of "Hod! Hod!" (We can go get dry when we fill all the tubs).
Takes till noon. Off to the winery and Bernadette's food. I can't remember when Bernadette didn't do the harvest food. She was Madame Cassin's assistant. Today it's vegetable soup - proper rustic soup of vegetables in broth - then hors thingies of pasta balls peppers olives tuna etc - then roast pork with white beans - then cheeses - then pear tarte and coffee in the glass which previously was for your wine or water... or both.
After which, taken leisurely, you feel like a new man. Or woman. And you leap off to work again like it was morning.
It's P...ing down now. Henry is delighted. He wants the rain to knock back the sugar richness in his grapes. Without it we'd have a 16 degree wine and puritans would be leaping all over us. Just glad we don't have to go out and work in it.
For, after lunch we stay in the cellar to process what we picked. Seeing everybody in their disposable plastic aprons and rubber gloves, looks more like an episode of 'ER' than a winery. Things change.
I remember a long, long time ago the first time I took a couple of buyers from M&S into a French winery. They'd bought the wine but being as M&S had only just gone into wine, never seen a winery.
They flipped. "But everyone has to wear hair-nets, overalls and rubber boots"! I translated for the foreman. I thought it best not to translate his reply.
But here we are... apart the hair-nets and you bet health and safety will bring that in soon.
We sort it all by 6. Good day. Nice juice.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 6 October 2010
Castillon-la-Bataille
Yesterday I filled in time writing and doing guided tours for other people who write. I tell the old stories. About how this whole business stems from my grandmother befriending a lost French tourist in Windsor. Which friendship resulted in her schoolboy grandson landing here in Ste Colombe in 1965 and never really leaving.
Le Chai au Quai (say 'Kay O'Shea' backwards) in Castillon meanwhile is humming. All the whites are fermenting happily and tasting great. And lots of wine is selling. In the last three months we've had twice the number of visitors we had all last year. Mostly Keyholders, of course, but many holidaymakers from the campsite just upriver. And quite a few locals buying styles of wine they cannot get elsewhere round here.
English Libby and French Brigitte are just lovely hostesses. Not surprised we get so many return visits.
Upstairs in the vast loft that Monsieur Massie created for us is more - but different - ferment. Teams of our bright people come to conference here; it's cheap, a lovely spot, the food is superb and you get wine tastings. After work, of course.
Today it's the I.T. Crowd (computers). Last week the Accountants. Day after tomorrow will be The Board.
Ah yes; have to stop now, got a lot of papers to read.
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Le Chai au Quai (say 'Kay O'Shea' backwards) in Castillon meanwhile is humming. All the whites are fermenting happily and tasting great. And lots of wine is selling. In the last three months we've had twice the number of visitors we had all last year. Mostly Keyholders, of course, but many holidaymakers from the campsite just upriver. And quite a few locals buying styles of wine they cannot get elsewhere round here.
English Libby and French Brigitte are just lovely hostesses. Not surprised we get so many return visits.
Upstairs in the vast loft that Monsieur Massie created for us is more - but different - ferment. Teams of our bright people come to conference here; it's cheap, a lovely spot, the food is superb and you get wine tastings. After work, of course.
Today it's the I.T. Crowd (computers). Last week the Accountants. Day after tomorrow will be The Board.
Ah yes; have to stop now, got a lot of papers to read.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 5 October 2010
Still waiting to harvest
Boy, are those grapes going to be ripe! The Americans turn up today. From Montana. Tough mountain folk. Good in a vineyard. In case any Grizzlies after our fruit.
Beth and James turn up in their van. With Hector the dog. They were here last year. They wander around a lot. But they like our harvests. Particularly the cooking. Nick is a new boy. He lives in a van too. And Will leaves his brewery for a few days. And that's our team. Just waiting to go. Coiled springs!
We have a fancy-dress party for Kaye to pass the time. I'd show you a picture but all too embarrassing.
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Beth and James turn up in their van. With Hector the dog. They were here last year. They wander around a lot. But they like our harvests. Particularly the cooking. Nick is a new boy. He lives in a van too. And Will leaves his brewery for a few days. And that's our team. Just waiting to go. Coiled springs!
We have a fancy-dress party for Kaye to pass the time. I'd show you a picture but all too embarrassing.
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Monday, 4 October 2010
Ste Colombe
A 'Staff' party passed through today. An international group. Four from the US office, two from the German as well as the UK crowd.
They'd been invited to Giscours for lunch then dined in St Emilion. Visited the Chai this morning looking surprisingly bright eyed. I did the La Clariere tour then joined them for lunch. Learnt a lot about what the customers are saying. Very important these 'Staffs' (which the French pronounce like the county). Still waiting to harvest.
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They'd been invited to Giscours for lunch then dined in St Emilion. Visited the Chai this morning looking surprisingly bright eyed. I did the La Clariere tour then joined them for lunch. Learnt a lot about what the customers are saying. Very important these 'Staffs' (which the French pronounce like the county). Still waiting to harvest.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 2 October 2010
La Clariere, Le Bourg, Presbytere and Verniotte
So Henry spends the morning going round all the family's vineyards here with the 'Grape Whisperer' (Bernard Soutre), comes into lunch late and says " Want the good news or the bad"? We say "the bad". He says "we're not picking tomorrow ... in fact we're not picking this week"!
Great! We've cancelled meetings and changed flights (Tom, from Australia) and for what? To sit around.
The good news is that the grapes are lovely. No rot, very sweet.. Just still to acid. Which is probably due to the droughts we've had which cause the vines to shut down activity, rather than properly ripen their fruit. So you have this odd situation; grapes sweet enough to make a very strong wine - but one which would taste a touch green.
So ...we must wait. And also pray the weather holds. A little rain would be welcome. But no great storms please.
Unable just to sit we wash down and tidy up our cellars. Henry finally finds a way to clean up his barrels which after the last filling looked like they'd been involved in a massacre (he blames me). No massacre, just more proof that the 2009 is a very rich wine indeed!
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Great! We've cancelled meetings and changed flights (Tom, from Australia) and for what? To sit around.
The good news is that the grapes are lovely. No rot, very sweet.. Just still to acid. Which is probably due to the droughts we've had which cause the vines to shut down activity, rather than properly ripen their fruit. So you have this odd situation; grapes sweet enough to make a very strong wine - but one which would taste a touch green.
So ...we must wait. And also pray the weather holds. A little rain would be welcome. But no great storms please.
Unable just to sit we wash down and tidy up our cellars. Henry finally finds a way to clean up his barrels which after the last filling looked like they'd been involved in a massacre (he blames me). No massacre, just more proof that the 2009 is a very rich wine indeed!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 1 October 2010
Old friends and families. Hunters and Bourlons.
Jane Hunter OBE First Lady of New Zealand wine, came to dinner at La Clariere last night. Her nephew; James who is Flying Winemaking at Le Chai, and Mark prepared the meal of Moules Marinieres followed by roast Rabbit.
After a glass of Laithwaites Champagne we drank Mark's Vent de Folie white then La Clariere 04 and Presbytere 04 and finished with sips of Jane's Late Harvest Botrytis Sauvignon Blanc which was a revelation here, the home of Sauternes.
Jane doesn't try to make a botrytis dessert wine. But some years it just happens. The sort of thing that make wine so magical.
25 years I've known Jane. I started with Hunters in 1986. But because we've both hurtled around the world a lot this was only the second time we've shared a meal since the late, great Ernie and she took me out in Blenheim that first time we met.
We caught up lots.
She's off to the UK for a round of Hunters tastings including a couple for us - one nine-courser at the Manoir 4 Saisons.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
After a glass of Laithwaites Champagne we drank Mark's Vent de Folie white then La Clariere 04 and Presbytere 04 and finished with sips of Jane's Late Harvest Botrytis Sauvignon Blanc which was a revelation here, the home of Sauternes.
Jane doesn't try to make a botrytis dessert wine. But some years it just happens. The sort of thing that make wine so magical.
25 years I've known Jane. I started with Hunters in 1986. But because we've both hurtled around the world a lot this was only the second time we've shared a meal since the late, great Ernie and she took me out in Blenheim that first time we met.
We caught up lots.
She's off to the UK for a round of Hunters tastings including a couple for us - one nine-courser at the Manoir 4 Saisons.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
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