But.. busy week ahead.
Will 'Loose Cannon' Laithwaite turns up with flagon of his Abingdon Bridge. The last flagon apparently as he's sold out his first two brews. (He'll have more brewed Tuesday!) It seems Abingdon - once home of mighty Morlands - is happy to have a brewery back in town.
He's looking tired. Puts it down to the incredible tonnage of paperwork he is required to complete for all the various public bodies. He had no idea! Neither did I. It is just unbelievable!
Bar getting a £5 licence, I don't recollect any paperwork in 1969. But then I did get in trouble for not having any accounts at year end... two-year end actually. "'Accounts'? What are 'accounts'"?
(When listing the qualities required to be an entrepreneur do not forget a liberal amount of 'blind ignorance'. The Dragons Den judges don't seem to worry about that. But it is vital ... otherwise you'd give up before you started.)
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 31 August 2010
Friday, 27 August 2010
To England
Drove home to England. For those who might be interested in popping down to see us in Bordeaux, these days we ourselves usually drive via the St Malo ferry. Because it’s the shortest distance to drive and quickest; all dual carriageway. 6 - 7 hours. About half what it took pre-motorway.
You can break the monotony halfway by leaving the autoroute and going round Niort the pretty way through the Marais Poitevin; green canals and cows. Calming. And of course there are vineyards to visit. There are vineyards everywhere in France. Apart the odd Alp and the odd swamp, vines can grow anywhere. Even where the maps say there are none. You look on the ridges and there are the green lines; Muscadet, the Poitvin, Cognac, Bordeaux.
St Malo is the best of all Channel ports. Stay in the walled citadel - 'Intra Muros' - lots to see. And eat. Stay at the 'Elizabeth'; more a garaging service with rooms and could not be more helpful. Just abandon you car and handover the keys. The Bar Simon nearby is small, family and friendly. We had a nice Cheverny, a much improved appellation, with our fish.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
You can break the monotony halfway by leaving the autoroute and going round Niort the pretty way through the Marais Poitevin; green canals and cows. Calming. And of course there are vineyards to visit. There are vineyards everywhere in France. Apart the odd Alp and the odd swamp, vines can grow anywhere. Even where the maps say there are none. You look on the ridges and there are the green lines; Muscadet, the Poitvin, Cognac, Bordeaux.
St Malo is the best of all Channel ports. Stay in the walled citadel - 'Intra Muros' - lots to see. And eat. Stay at the 'Elizabeth'; more a garaging service with rooms and could not be more helpful. Just abandon you car and handover the keys. The Bar Simon nearby is small, family and friendly. We had a nice Cheverny, a much improved appellation, with our fish.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Thursday, 26 August 2010
In The Kitchen
Today, to please my v. old, foody friend Mr Kerr (late of Estate Bottled Foods and known to us variously as 'Cassoulet Dave' or 'Dave the Duck'), we did a morning's work 'helping' in the kitchen of Le Comptoir de St Genes.
All who eat out and make a fuss in restaurants should try seeing what it feels like the other side of the swinging doors.
I do not want to see another courgette. I peeled a whole box. And then she (Lucie) served up the peelings! With carrot shavings and called ‘vegetable tagliatelli.’ Dave meanwhile was crying in the corner; peeling a sack of onions.
That was the quiet bit. Then the customers arrived and the shouting started. People and plates flying everywhere. You know, it’s very hard NOT to leave thumbprints on plates. I was in trouble for that. So got put on the 'plonge'. Not as bad as I imagined. Due mostly to the industrial dishwasher that only takes two minutes. On the other hand you have to wash everything! Even the cooker... well, the exposed bits.
After 50 lunches though, you are pretty knackered. But we can have a glass or three of Vincent's 'house' rosé, go home and collapse. The others bounce back for the evening shift on 3 hours. Still smiling. As Lucie says it’s good fun but you do have to be mad to do it. "And young", I'd add.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
All who eat out and make a fuss in restaurants should try seeing what it feels like the other side of the swinging doors.
I do not want to see another courgette. I peeled a whole box. And then she (Lucie) served up the peelings! With carrot shavings and called ‘vegetable tagliatelli.’ Dave meanwhile was crying in the corner; peeling a sack of onions.
That was the quiet bit. Then the customers arrived and the shouting started. People and plates flying everywhere. You know, it’s very hard NOT to leave thumbprints on plates. I was in trouble for that. So got put on the 'plonge'. Not as bad as I imagined. Due mostly to the industrial dishwasher that only takes two minutes. On the other hand you have to wash everything! Even the cooker... well, the exposed bits.
After 50 lunches though, you are pretty knackered. But we can have a glass or three of Vincent's 'house' rosé, go home and collapse. The others bounce back for the evening shift on 3 hours. Still smiling. As Lucie says it’s good fun but you do have to be mad to do it. "And young", I'd add.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 25 August 2010
Today's the day...
...when every year the road in front of Le Chai becomes a 'Vide Grenier' (loft emptying or Car Boot to us). In the hot sun those guys are earning the hard way. I get a couple of old postcards of Castillon. Never thought I'd say this but it's too hot to drink. Till tonight anyway.
At the Comptoir de St Genes - which as usual has a good sprinkling of Brits tonight - a lot of them Laithwaites people on their two week stint at Le Chai. Anne-Marie opens bottles of from the Chateaux we visited earlier in the week and lines them up on the bar. That's a great idea. We should do it more often. It’s the best way to get Castillon wines better known.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
At the Comptoir de St Genes - which as usual has a good sprinkling of Brits tonight - a lot of them Laithwaites people on their two week stint at Le Chai. Anne-Marie opens bottles of from the Chateaux we visited earlier in the week and lines them up on the bar. That's a great idea. We should do it more often. It’s the best way to get Castillon wines better known.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 24 August 2010
Castillon
Too hot to move. Except in the cool Chai and the even cooler caves beneath La Clariere. So it was a real pleasure to do a couple of guided tours for visitors.
Evening - when the sun sets - 'Fête Nocturne' in Flaujagues the next village upriver, south bank. We love these things. They are increasingly popular. Consist of a lot of trestle tables and stalls selling food of all different kinds; steak, sausage, chicken, magrets, mussels, paella, crepes and of course plenty of local wines.
So you just sit, wander about, buy, eat. The start again. Several times. Then there's dancing. Traditional stuff. Something you wouldn't want to do sober but... the wine makes it all very convivial.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Evening - when the sun sets - 'Fête Nocturne' in Flaujagues the next village upriver, south bank. We love these things. They are increasingly popular. Consist of a lot of trestle tables and stalls selling food of all different kinds; steak, sausage, chicken, magrets, mussels, paella, crepes and of course plenty of local wines.
So you just sit, wander about, buy, eat. The start again. Several times. Then there's dancing. Traditional stuff. Something you wouldn't want to do sober but... the wine makes it all very convivial.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Monday, 23 August 2010
Weather is scorching
Up over 40 degrees. The vines love it and leap ahead. People tend to slow up. The locals hide away indoors behind closed shutters so you'd think the town deserted.
The British stagger on though. We really must learn to be proper Castillonais; work to the 'heure soleille and get up with the sun and be active before it gets unbearable.
Great evening at La Plage; Castillon's summer open air restaurant and bar since 1920. Bit rough and ready but fun.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
The British stagger on though. We really must learn to be proper Castillonais; work to the 'heure soleille and get up with the sun and be active before it gets unbearable.
Great evening at La Plage; Castillon's summer open air restaurant and bar since 1920. Bit rough and ready but fun.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Sunday, 22 August 2010
Ste Colombe
Sorry to bore. It's only because I promised the Web Boss to do a diary every day.
I said there'd be boring days and there have been.
But.... finally holidays are ending.
So should liven up.
Jean-Marc turned up yesterday. Shouldn't have. But missed another plane. That's his weakness; missing planes. Stranded. With 3 children!
So we sat in the Chai with Mark and discussed vintage plans. Should kick off next week. Excitement can be detected.
The Flying Winemakers have arrived. Maitena from San Sebastian - she did 2005 for us - and James from New Zealand. Jane Hunter's nephew. Jane herself is coming to stay in a few weeks.
We sampled a few Chai things; The Côte Rotie and the Condrieu were both partic excellent. Mark v. proud. He grilled some duck hearts. But then got too animated ...and burnt the chicken.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
I said there'd be boring days and there have been.
But.... finally holidays are ending.
So should liven up.
Jean-Marc turned up yesterday. Shouldn't have. But missed another plane. That's his weakness; missing planes. Stranded. With 3 children!
So we sat in the Chai with Mark and discussed vintage plans. Should kick off next week. Excitement can be detected.
The Flying Winemakers have arrived. Maitena from San Sebastian - she did 2005 for us - and James from New Zealand. Jane Hunter's nephew. Jane herself is coming to stay in a few weeks.
We sampled a few Chai things; The Côte Rotie and the Condrieu were both partic excellent. Mark v. proud. He grilled some duck hearts. But then got too animated ...and burnt the chicken.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 21 August 2010
Castillon, The Dordogne
Took the canoe on the Dordogne. Launched from the Quai in front of the Chai... alongside the immoveable hunched figure of 'Monsieur Miserable', the fisherman who never speaks or smiles or moves out of the way.
A cool day. Drizzling too.
Laithwaites Champagne was needed to raise spirits.
This is the boat that was Monsieur Cassin's one gift to me (apart from teaching me how to sell wine, run a business, vineyard etc). Called 'Loch Ness', she was built by Castillon boatbuilders (still in business) as a canoe/skiff to Monsieur's own idiosyncratic design.
You can row her - with outriggers and a sliding seat, or paddle. And now, me being just a touch unfit, she can also be pushed along by an electric outboard.
We set out for the plage at Ste Terre but didn't quite make it due to getting the tides wrong. The river is tidal here and, sod's law, we had it against us both ways. We saw egrets, herons, lots of swans, cormorants a big fish - that I swear was golden - coypu and water rats. No ducks! Maybe all been eaten in this foie-mad region?
The water is so shallow; which will be interesting next year when we plan to ship wine from the Chai by river in a Gabare down to the sea and a sailing ship for England.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
A cool day. Drizzling too.
Laithwaites Champagne was needed to raise spirits.
This is the boat that was Monsieur Cassin's one gift to me (apart from teaching me how to sell wine, run a business, vineyard etc). Called 'Loch Ness', she was built by Castillon boatbuilders (still in business) as a canoe/skiff to Monsieur's own idiosyncratic design.
You can row her - with outriggers and a sliding seat, or paddle. And now, me being just a touch unfit, she can also be pushed along by an electric outboard.
We set out for the plage at Ste Terre but didn't quite make it due to getting the tides wrong. The river is tidal here and, sod's law, we had it against us both ways. We saw egrets, herons, lots of swans, cormorants a big fish - that I swear was golden - coypu and water rats. No ducks! Maybe all been eaten in this foie-mad region?
The water is so shallow; which will be interesting next year when we plan to ship wine from the Chai by river in a Gabare down to the sea and a sailing ship for England.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 20 August 2010
Castillon
Had arranged to go round and photograph a few of the 'real' chateaux in the Castillon area. Appointments made. Then a tiny problem; dense fog makes photography a bit tricky.
Castillon has an extraordinary number of C12/13/14/15th real fortified castles, with turrets, moats, dungeons and the rest. Monsieur Le Baron de Montfort at Blasimon visibly shuddered when asked if he actually wanted to live in his vast, ancient fortress; (he doesn't).
Benoît de Fontenay and family do live happily at Château de Castegens, despite being attacked by soldiers three times a week throughout July and August (Castegens serves as backdrop for the Battle of Castillon huge and loud 'Son et Lumiere' show).
Bruno Aymen de Lageard has a quieter time at Château de Flojague, Stéphan de Neipperg doesn’t actually live at Château d'Aiguilhe; it’s a ruin - though it does have the finest of all cellars. And he's got Canon LaGaffelière to live in anyway.
Château La Pierrière I had not actually entered since 1965!!! In that time the very hard-working de Marcillacs have restored and sensitively modernised their damp, dark, primitive and ancient toy fort into a lovely, warm, gorgeous home; my favourite of all!
We had to stop there... talking too much... with at least a dozen more to go.
I hope my team will like the idea of us putting together a box of a dozen of these wonderful 'Castillon Castle-wines' with some photographs, histories... AND a good map!!!! So customers - particularly Keyholders - will be able to add 'A trip back in time' to their itinerary when they come and visit the Chai.
All of these places were built when Aquitaine was under the rule of the King of England! We need to keep an eye on them!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Castillon has an extraordinary number of C12/13/14/15th real fortified castles, with turrets, moats, dungeons and the rest. Monsieur Le Baron de Montfort at Blasimon visibly shuddered when asked if he actually wanted to live in his vast, ancient fortress; (he doesn't).
Benoît de Fontenay and family do live happily at Château de Castegens, despite being attacked by soldiers three times a week throughout July and August (Castegens serves as backdrop for the Battle of Castillon huge and loud 'Son et Lumiere' show).
Bruno Aymen de Lageard has a quieter time at Château de Flojague, Stéphan de Neipperg doesn’t actually live at Château d'Aiguilhe; it’s a ruin - though it does have the finest of all cellars. And he's got Canon LaGaffelière to live in anyway.
Château La Pierrière I had not actually entered since 1965!!! In that time the very hard-working de Marcillacs have restored and sensitively modernised their damp, dark, primitive and ancient toy fort into a lovely, warm, gorgeous home; my favourite of all!
We had to stop there... talking too much... with at least a dozen more to go.
I hope my team will like the idea of us putting together a box of a dozen of these wonderful 'Castillon Castle-wines' with some photographs, histories... AND a good map!!!! So customers - particularly Keyholders - will be able to add 'A trip back in time' to their itinerary when they come and visit the Chai.
All of these places were built when Aquitaine was under the rule of the King of England! We need to keep an eye on them!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 18 August 2010
San Sebastian to Ste Colombe
Gastronomic Societies are huge in San Sebastian. Hundreds. Tony B does not belong to one because Madame will not let him. Itziar says the Societies break up too many marriages. They are for men. A society will own a place of its own in town. Looks like a bar. With tables to eat at but principally a very large, fully-equipped professional-standard kitchen. And a very well-stocked cellar.
At a get-together blokes will cook their own particular specialities for their friends. There are no staff; it's strictly DIY. Blokes. (Maybe someone comes in the morning to clean up).
Ladies are often invited to come and eat. But never to cook. There is a piano and lots of singing. And well... you can guess the rest. They have loads of get-togethers. So blokes sometimes lose the habit of going home. At all. Hence marriage wrecking.
Barring the last bit of course I think we should consider this idea for Britain. I have friends who cook a bit. Or think they can. I can cook.....well, I can grill steak.... Maybe it’s not such a good idea.
But in San Sebastian I suppose it might have something to do with this little area having more Michelin stars than anywhere on the planet. Basques amaze you in many ways.
We drove the long and winding way home, over the Pyrenees, up through the whitewashed villages and green glades to the Barreros’ country home in French Basque Country. For a final display of food fanaticism. The tuna the can themselves, and the peppers they drive miles to buy, then bottle, the very special oil.
Long lunch with a stunning Garnacha rosé which I am going to try and get. Plus a very well-aged old red I completely forgot to take the name of. Too relaxed this holiday. Hard drive home.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
At a get-together blokes will cook their own particular specialities for their friends. There are no staff; it's strictly DIY. Blokes. (Maybe someone comes in the morning to clean up).
Ladies are often invited to come and eat. But never to cook. There is a piano and lots of singing. And well... you can guess the rest. They have loads of get-togethers. So blokes sometimes lose the habit of going home. At all. Hence marriage wrecking.
Barring the last bit of course I think we should consider this idea for Britain. I have friends who cook a bit. Or think they can. I can cook.....well, I can grill steak.... Maybe it’s not such a good idea.
But in San Sebastian I suppose it might have something to do with this little area having more Michelin stars than anywhere on the planet. Basques amaze you in many ways.
We drove the long and winding way home, over the Pyrenees, up through the whitewashed villages and green glades to the Barreros’ country home in French Basque Country. For a final display of food fanaticism. The tuna the can themselves, and the peppers they drive miles to buy, then bottle, the very special oil.
Long lunch with a stunning Garnacha rosé which I am going to try and get. Plus a very well-aged old red I completely forgot to take the name of. Too relaxed this holiday. Hard drive home.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
San Sebastian
Tony Barrero sold me my first really big-seller wine. Then he introduced me to Carinena and El Bombero. Then to some new guys called Martinez-Bujanda. Then helped me put a Flying Winemaker into the cellar at Murchante where he - the young Nick Butler - made a palate-stunning, fruit-driven, crisp white wine; something never seen before in Rioja or Navarra. Then.... Lots of other stuff; without Tony I would not have known where to go in Spain. I owe the Big Basque.
We first met in 1973 when I came to Spain to buy for the first time. Big smiley lad. Sense humour. Learnt English in Peebles. Export manager for 'SAVIN'. Sold me a wine called Monte Alegré; Ah! Dear old Monty.
Today, Savin is no longer here but Tony is. Larger than ever. Meet up with him, Itziar and their twins in a Tapas bar on the Calle 31 Agosto. Twin Maitena is a flying winemaker and coming to work at the Chai this year. Her partner; Hector is Jean-Marc's winemaker at his Rioja Bodega in Labastida. He's there too.
More Txacholi (or 'Chacoli' in Spanish; the sharp white wine from the steep, rain-lashed vineyards on this exposed Biscay coast). Maitena and Hector have just acquired a patch of these vines and this year are going to make their own take on what Txacholi might be. I say I'd love to have some. Bound to be good with their joint talents.
Another bar, another bottle. Then some fresh grilled anchovies, with squid to follow, by the old harbour. With a Rias Baixas. They have life well sussed here, I tell you.
Then, to recover, go to a see a few games of Pelota or 'Remonté' which is the version of the Basque national game they play with long curved basket structures laced to the serving arm so they look a bit like one-armed lobsters. This appendage accelerates an already fast game - think Squash, Fives, Real Tennis combined - into a Lethally fast game.
The court looks about 80 metres long, the ball is small and very hard. Sounds like a pistol shot when it hits the wall at well over 100 mph. Players now wear helmets and spectators sit behind steel mesh. It is Thrilling. Tennis combined with War.
Unlikely to catch on in Wimbledon.
More bars, txacholi, pinxtos and fireworks. This time from hotel balcony. The climax pins you to the wall, empties your lungs. The vast mass of Basques packed everywhere in the bay on the sand, in the water applaud like crazy.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
We first met in 1973 when I came to Spain to buy for the first time. Big smiley lad. Sense humour. Learnt English in Peebles. Export manager for 'SAVIN'. Sold me a wine called Monte Alegré; Ah! Dear old Monty.
Today, Savin is no longer here but Tony is. Larger than ever. Meet up with him, Itziar and their twins in a Tapas bar on the Calle 31 Agosto. Twin Maitena is a flying winemaker and coming to work at the Chai this year. Her partner; Hector is Jean-Marc's winemaker at his Rioja Bodega in Labastida. He's there too.
More Txacholi (or 'Chacoli' in Spanish; the sharp white wine from the steep, rain-lashed vineyards on this exposed Biscay coast). Maitena and Hector have just acquired a patch of these vines and this year are going to make their own take on what Txacholi might be. I say I'd love to have some. Bound to be good with their joint talents.
Another bar, another bottle. Then some fresh grilled anchovies, with squid to follow, by the old harbour. With a Rias Baixas. They have life well sussed here, I tell you.
Then, to recover, go to a see a few games of Pelota or 'Remonté' which is the version of the Basque national game they play with long curved basket structures laced to the serving arm so they look a bit like one-armed lobsters. This appendage accelerates an already fast game - think Squash, Fives, Real Tennis combined - into a Lethally fast game.
The court looks about 80 metres long, the ball is small and very hard. Sounds like a pistol shot when it hits the wall at well over 100 mph. Players now wear helmets and spectators sit behind steel mesh. It is Thrilling. Tennis combined with War.
Unlikely to catch on in Wimbledon.
More bars, txacholi, pinxtos and fireworks. This time from hotel balcony. The climax pins you to the wall, empties your lungs. The vast mass of Basques packed everywhere in the bay on the sand, in the water applaud like crazy.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 17 August 2010
San Sebastian or Donostia
In Castillon in summer, there's no great opportunity for the girls to put on best frocks. So, in the great Bordeaux tradition, we come down (us just for w/e) to the Basque Country. Our preferred place is in Spain although the inhabitants of Donostia will never admit that. A 3hr drive.
The Hotel Londres on the front is a Grand old place. One of the best. Bit oldy-worldy, but oh! that stunning view of the bay!
It's the 'Semane Grande' and the town is one heaving, noisy party which doesn't end for a week.
The best frocks parade the Paseo, then to the Old Quarter and its Pinxtos (Tapas) bars. Best bars in the world. Drink foaming Txacholi (always poured from 2 feet up to take some of the bite off), then eat all the colourful decorations laid on the bar.
Cannot understand a Basque word so watch bar TV; chaps - in white cricket flannels - running at charging bulls, then casually doing somersaults over those tons of angry muscle ...with sharp horns. Basques are different. Mad and incomprehensible. Love 'em.
Narrow streets, very narrow bars. Elbows and noise. NOISE! Bands march, bands rock, bands do incomprehensible Basque things in every street and square. Later there's a sudden lemming rush - floodstream - of people. Pushed along narrow street, then rammed into railings, cringe as artillery opens up point blank; fireworks like never before. The sound in that canyon of a street is IN CRED E BUL. Pardon? Eh? Shellshocked and DEAF; to bed... probably to the sound of surf and the never-ending party. But not sure.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
The Hotel Londres on the front is a Grand old place. One of the best. Bit oldy-worldy, but oh! that stunning view of the bay!
It's the 'Semane Grande' and the town is one heaving, noisy party which doesn't end for a week.
The best frocks parade the Paseo, then to the Old Quarter and its Pinxtos (Tapas) bars. Best bars in the world. Drink foaming Txacholi (always poured from 2 feet up to take some of the bite off), then eat all the colourful decorations laid on the bar.
Cannot understand a Basque word so watch bar TV; chaps - in white cricket flannels - running at charging bulls, then casually doing somersaults over those tons of angry muscle ...with sharp horns. Basques are different. Mad and incomprehensible. Love 'em.
Narrow streets, very narrow bars. Elbows and noise. NOISE! Bands march, bands rock, bands do incomprehensible Basque things in every street and square. Later there's a sudden lemming rush - floodstream - of people. Pushed along narrow street, then rammed into railings, cringe as artillery opens up point blank; fireworks like never before. The sound in that canyon of a street is IN CRED E BUL. Pardon? Eh? Shellshocked and DEAF; to bed... probably to the sound of surf and the never-ending party. But not sure.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Sunday, 15 August 2010
Will's beer arrives
Our rebel son's beer is wonderful. It was really strange to be in France and yet be sinking a glass of good, proper draught beer.
Waited four years for this. So proud I went short, what with going round the whole restaurant pressing tastes on bemused French people. "Now this, Monsieur, is what real draught beer tastes like! None of your fizzy, freezing 'Pression'...beer where you can really taste the hops."
Thank you Rob for smuggling it over in plastic bottles in you suitcase. Real 'live' ale could've been a real live aviation problem in turbulence!
And well done Will. Dad is v. happy.
It's called 'Loose Cannon' which is Will's rugby nickname; the mildest, calmest of chaps always, always ... except when, very rarely, something sets him off. Then ... .he usually ends up in hospital!
At the moment he's very happy, though. He is selling his beer. And Abingdon seems to like it. Ste Colombe, too.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Waited four years for this. So proud I went short, what with going round the whole restaurant pressing tastes on bemused French people. "Now this, Monsieur, is what real draught beer tastes like! None of your fizzy, freezing 'Pression'...beer where you can really taste the hops."
Thank you Rob for smuggling it over in plastic bottles in you suitcase. Real 'live' ale could've been a real live aviation problem in turbulence!
And well done Will. Dad is v. happy.
It's called 'Loose Cannon' which is Will's rugby nickname; the mildest, calmest of chaps always, always ... except when, very rarely, something sets him off. Then ... .he usually ends up in hospital!
At the moment he's very happy, though. He is selling his beer. And Abingdon seems to like it. Ste Colombe, too.
Loose Cannon Brewery
Unit 6, Suffolk Way, Abingdon, OX14 5JX
T +44(0)1235 531141
M +44(0)7872003171
E-Mail will@lcbeers.co.uk
Unit 6, Suffolk Way, Abingdon, OX14 5JX
T +44(0)1235 531141
M +44(0)7872003171
E-Mail will@lcbeers.co.uk
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 14 August 2010
Ste Colombe Holidays disturbed
Rocketman flew in this week. Simon, our CEO set up his court here this week and arranged about 356 meetings with all his Managers. So it's not been quiet.
But I can't complain because it was my idea.
Laithwaites Wine - or Bordeaux Direct as it was then - started as a distinctly Anglo French business. I might have been English but everything I knew was French. Based both in Bordeaux and Britain, we cemented the importance of France to us when we bought our La Clariere vineyard here in 1980. And we increased our attachment when we set up the Chai au Quai and when Henry also bought a vineyard.
Our permanent staff here is increasing, and we have lots of UK staff coming to work out here for short periods.
Why? Because this is the birthplace of wine as we know it.Fermenting grapes may have started in the Middle East thousands of years ago but it was here, in Bordeaux that the whole notion of 'fine' wine, aged and bottled, Chateau wine, laying-down wine, Crus one two three etc., Great and small vintages... the whole thing started here and spread round the world.
Come here and you 'get it'. You absorb the ambience. You pick up the passion.
Without regular bathing in Bordeaux (figuratively only!) I cannot function. So I have to accept that in future summers not just me, but the whole Company might be here. Possibly all the customers too.
Be a great party, that.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
But I can't complain because it was my idea.
Laithwaites Wine - or Bordeaux Direct as it was then - started as a distinctly Anglo French business. I might have been English but everything I knew was French. Based both in Bordeaux and Britain, we cemented the importance of France to us when we bought our La Clariere vineyard here in 1980. And we increased our attachment when we set up the Chai au Quai and when Henry also bought a vineyard.
Our permanent staff here is increasing, and we have lots of UK staff coming to work out here for short periods.
Why? Because this is the birthplace of wine as we know it.Fermenting grapes may have started in the Middle East thousands of years ago but it was here, in Bordeaux that the whole notion of 'fine' wine, aged and bottled, Chateau wine, laying-down wine, Crus one two three etc., Great and small vintages... the whole thing started here and spread round the world.
Come here and you 'get it'. You absorb the ambience. You pick up the passion.
Without regular bathing in Bordeaux (figuratively only!) I cannot function. So I have to accept that in future summers not just me, but the whole Company might be here. Possibly all the customers too.
Be a great party, that.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 13 August 2010
Chateau de Sallettes to Ste Colombe
Woke up and had lost our car. Stuck sore head out into bright sun, lovely vineyards and a couple having breakfast. Great idea! And "Pas de Problem Monsieur"!
I fell completely for the Chateau des Sallettes Hotel as we had cuppa and croissant in the silent sunshine with view. Others emerged blinking and every time the Hotel scurried about settling up tables and being sweet. I really like this place.
Found car! Only a mile away. Needed the walk.
Goodbyes. Into Gaillac for lunch. And well, well, they have the Fête des Vins on! I never shirk my work, so in we go.
There's a band! All the Gaillac producers are here. A lot of good wine. I shall mention this to Justin MW and Co. Gaillac needs another look.
Then drop Henry and Kaye at airport and return to base.
After dinner we get the telescope up on the terrace and look at Venus, Mars and Jupiter all together in the west.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
I fell completely for the Chateau des Sallettes Hotel as we had cuppa and croissant in the silent sunshine with view. Others emerged blinking and every time the Hotel scurried about settling up tables and being sweet. I really like this place.
Found car! Only a mile away. Needed the walk.
Goodbyes. Into Gaillac for lunch. And well, well, they have the Fête des Vins on! I never shirk my work, so in we go.
There's a band! All the Gaillac producers are here. A lot of good wine. I shall mention this to Justin MW and Co. Gaillac needs another look.
Then drop Henry and Kaye at airport and return to base.
After dinner we get the telescope up on the terrace and look at Venus, Mars and Jupiter all together in the west.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Thursday, 12 August 2010
The Wedding
It was Dan and Laura's wedding today. At the Chateau de Mauriac which is between Gaillac and Cordes.
Many years ago - '71? '72? - when I first bought the Gaillac Perlé and the little fruity red of Cordes, I thought I was a sort of wine David Livingstone who had ventured into the unknown and discovered wines previously unheard of. That wouldn't be the case today.
Even the caterers at the wedding are English! When I decline the Champagne (Laithwaites - Dan is nothing if not loyal) and ask for the 'Perlé' instead "because I was the first ever to ship that wine"...lead balloon! Not impressed!
I remember the man who invented that wine; the sainted Jean-Henri Dubernet who ran what was the ONLY wine producer (biggest in France) in the region.
The appalling French bureaucrats actually put him in prison for inventing a new way to make Gaillac taste better. At a time when it was the cheapest wine of France and the region was destitute.
Wish you could see it now, Jean-Henri; the region is doing very well! And there are lots of Gaillac wines of a quality might astonish even you.
We partied all night. French and British and German... with a great little band from London thumping them out. The old Chateau withstood the attack well.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Many years ago - '71? '72? - when I first bought the Gaillac Perlé and the little fruity red of Cordes, I thought I was a sort of wine David Livingstone who had ventured into the unknown and discovered wines previously unheard of. That wouldn't be the case today.
Even the caterers at the wedding are English! When I decline the Champagne (Laithwaites - Dan is nothing if not loyal) and ask for the 'Perlé' instead "because I was the first ever to ship that wine"...lead balloon! Not impressed!
I remember the man who invented that wine; the sainted Jean-Henri Dubernet who ran what was the ONLY wine producer (biggest in France) in the region.
The appalling French bureaucrats actually put him in prison for inventing a new way to make Gaillac taste better. At a time when it was the cheapest wine of France and the region was destitute.
Wish you could see it now, Jean-Henri; the region is doing very well! And there are lots of Gaillac wines of a quality might astonish even you.
We partied all night. French and British and German... with a great little band from London thumping them out. The old Chateau withstood the attack well.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 11 August 2010
Ste Colombe to Albi
On our way to the third wedding of this year. Two to go! Off across the Entre deux Mers, then left through the Marmandais, past Buzet, Bruhlois, and the Agenais, to Fronton near Toulouse then through Gaillac to Albi.
All those lovely little wine regions that even today hardly anyone knows. I did my best. I really did. The Great Little Wines of France was always my 'thing'. Comes from having started in 'unknown' Castillon, I suppose. I like discovering unknowns.
France has so many more wine regions and grape varieties than most people realise. My favourite wine map is the first one in 'The World Atlas of Wine': shows all - almost all - the wine regions of France. I have 'bagged' them all. Actually I'd bagged them all by 1988. I would really love to go round them all again, slowly this time, with Henry and Tom, and a van to load up, and a camera. Now that would make for an INTERESTING diary!
Anyway.... On arrival we find our Dan - Henry's friend from Durham and until last month our Company Treasurer - wandering about looking soooo relaxed. Later in Albi's town hall there he stands in a suit next to his Laura... he looks tenser. But then he has no idea what the Deputé Maire is saying. He only knows he has to say 'Oui'!
He waits for his moment. Slight dig in the ribs and "OUI!" Very, very Loud. The room erupts. No tension from then on. Mr and Mrs. and the rest go for pics in the Cathedral gardens and drinks in Toulouse-Lautrec's favourite bar. Albi got Unesco status thingummy on Thursday. Good timing. Good party. Good Gaillac wine.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
All those lovely little wine regions that even today hardly anyone knows. I did my best. I really did. The Great Little Wines of France was always my 'thing'. Comes from having started in 'unknown' Castillon, I suppose. I like discovering unknowns.
France has so many more wine regions and grape varieties than most people realise. My favourite wine map is the first one in 'The World Atlas of Wine': shows all - almost all - the wine regions of France. I have 'bagged' them all. Actually I'd bagged them all by 1988. I would really love to go round them all again, slowly this time, with Henry and Tom, and a van to load up, and a camera. Now that would make for an INTERESTING diary!
Anyway.... On arrival we find our Dan - Henry's friend from Durham and until last month our Company Treasurer - wandering about looking soooo relaxed. Later in Albi's town hall there he stands in a suit next to his Laura... he looks tenser. But then he has no idea what the Deputé Maire is saying. He only knows he has to say 'Oui'!
He waits for his moment. Slight dig in the ribs and "OUI!" Very, very Loud. The room erupts. No tension from then on. Mr and Mrs. and the rest go for pics in the Cathedral gardens and drinks in Toulouse-Lautrec's favourite bar. Albi got Unesco status thingummy on Thursday. Good timing. Good party. Good Gaillac wine.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 10 August 2010
Sunny. Walked to Saint Emilion. About 2 hours
Our habit of some years, when we stagger into the town through the quiet East Gate; Porte Brunet, is to dive straight into the Clos des Cordeliers sparkling winery cellars for a bottle of their pink Cremant in their Cloisters. When I first came here - 60's - this was where most people came on a Sunday outing, for the fizz made in the caves below and some macarons. And the gossip.
That was in the days when the town had one wine shop. Which wasn't busy. Nobody went to Saint Emilion for its most famous wine. The town was known then for its fizz! True!
Anyway the good news is the old place is being restored. The cloisters - it was originally one of St Emilion's dozen religious houses are beginning to look like they might stay up a few centuries more. And there's a shop, and a toilet! And they'll even sell you a picnic in a basket. With the pink bubbles - perfect.
Home to meet the newly arrived phone staff doing their 2 weeks work placement in the Chai! Nice young chap and three stunning girls. Mmm.. We need to do videophones!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
That was in the days when the town had one wine shop. Which wasn't busy. Nobody went to Saint Emilion for its most famous wine. The town was known then for its fizz! True!
Anyway the good news is the old place is being restored. The cloisters - it was originally one of St Emilion's dozen religious houses are beginning to look like they might stay up a few centuries more. And there's a shop, and a toilet! And they'll even sell you a picnic in a basket. With the pink bubbles - perfect.
Home to meet the newly arrived phone staff doing their 2 weeks work placement in the Chai! Nice young chap and three stunning girls. Mmm.. We need to do videophones!
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Monday, 9 August 2010
Holidays Ste Colombe
Overcast. Even rain! So go for a drive to Blaye and Bourg.
Blaye's Vaubon fortress is impressive. But I think I prefer little Bourg.
Evening dinner at La Poudette just over the river at Castillon ... Pujols. They did the food for our Grand Opening last month. Their restaurant is their home. In their garden with their chickens and horses.
Big argument with Moira; I say the food is simple. She says it isn't. But we both love it. So who cares really?
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Blaye's Vaubon fortress is impressive. But I think I prefer little Bourg.
Evening dinner at La Poudette just over the river at Castillon ... Pujols. They did the food for our Grand Opening last month. Their restaurant is their home. In their garden with their chickens and horses.
Big argument with Moira; I say the food is simple. She says it isn't. But we both love it. So who cares really?
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Saturday, 7 August 2010
Ste Colombe
Oh Dear, you say, problem there. But no, to explain, our rebel Will was the son who turned away from wine, due to an unfortunate childhood experience. He turned instead to beer! (Some people have children become lawyers, doctors, teachers, rocket scientists. We have a winemaker and a brewer. And one who was a barman, now writes about wine in Sydney. Always in alcohol; us lot. We know our limits. P)
Anyway have been apprenticed to the excellent Rebellion Brewery in Marlow, Will has spent a frustrating year or so putting together his own 'Loose Cannon' brewery in Abingdon.
And today, finally his first brew was ready. Well, you wouldn't wait 'till proper drinking time, would you?
He seems to like it but will only be happy if others like it too. So if anyone has the time, don't bother logging on to lcbeers.co.uk because he's not written it yet, just pop round to his brew shed - opens Monday;
The Loose Cannon Brewing Co LTD
Unit 6
Suffolk Way
Abingdon
Now ... how can we get a taste out in France?
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Friday, 6 August 2010
La Clariere, Bordeaux
Thunder is..well, thundering. All around. Upstairs, in the grey, the gods are deciding which vineyard they might decimate this morning.
We, the vignerons, are feeling distinctly puny. We have sent our wives to church, but what else can we do?
In the old days we'd be out there watching the storm approach. We would watch the curtain of hail cutting its narrow swathe. If it came towards us we would, at the last moment, light the fuse of our firework rocket grenade and hope it exploded bang in the middle of the thunderhead and interrupt all that water and ice, whizzing around, up and down, growing, accreting into lethal golf-balls of ice. Then maybe the hail would pause a few seconds and not fall on me, but then resume and blast my horrible blasted neighbour. Who deserved it.
But we have since been told that the rockets are a waste of time. Pity, that. It was at least satisfying taking a potshot at the mighty powers.
But its quietened now, while I've been writing. There is a patch of blue. No damage this time. Just rain. Olivier will spray copper tomorrow to prevent the damp turning to rot.
And we'll be fine. Till the next time.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
We, the vignerons, are feeling distinctly puny. We have sent our wives to church, but what else can we do?
In the old days we'd be out there watching the storm approach. We would watch the curtain of hail cutting its narrow swathe. If it came towards us we would, at the last moment, light the fuse of our firework rocket grenade and hope it exploded bang in the middle of the thunderhead and interrupt all that water and ice, whizzing around, up and down, growing, accreting into lethal golf-balls of ice. Then maybe the hail would pause a few seconds and not fall on me, but then resume and blast my horrible blasted neighbour. Who deserved it.
But we have since been told that the rockets are a waste of time. Pity, that. It was at least satisfying taking a potshot at the mighty powers.
But its quietened now, while I've been writing. There is a patch of blue. No damage this time. Just rain. Olivier will spray copper tomorrow to prevent the damp turning to rot.
And we'll be fine. Till the next time.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Thursday, 5 August 2010
Castillon. Holiday. Market Day
Monsieur Tasta for his duck paté, various others for shallots, sardines, saucisse and such. Mimi's Bar (Les Voyageurs) for a drink then lunch. Grilled Andouillette. The as-much-as-you-want wine in unlabelled bottles. But I know it's from our next door neighbour Fred, sturdy prop/captain of Castillon's finest. So brilliant value. Sun re-appears.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Wednesday, 4 August 2010
La Clariere. Chai
Showed the troops around La Clariere. In the vineyard, tell them how it all came to be and that if Grandmother hadn't decided to rescue a lost French lady in Windsor none of us would be here.
Big crop this year but ripening behind where it usually is.
Hot sun is trying tho'.
Take them through the cuverie and down the spiral stairs through the rock into the bat cave. Leave the lights on low. Always think would make a spectacular night club ...but just the slumbering barrels for now. Demonstrate mediaeval quarrying.
After droning for an hour, release them to go to the Chai au Quai. Mark will do the chat there.
Join for a nice long trestle-table cold dejeuner in the Grand Chai with the big doors open and the river looking lovely.
We had (mostly): Roussanne from Couusergues (La Roussanne du Baron), Syrah de Folie, V.O, Grace de l'Hermitage
We pour the tired folk back on the airport bus and go - even tireder - to collapse in deck chairs. Holiday begins.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Big crop this year but ripening behind where it usually is.
Hot sun is trying tho'.
Take them through the cuverie and down the spiral stairs through the rock into the bat cave. Leave the lights on low. Always think would make a spectacular night club ...but just the slumbering barrels for now. Demonstrate mediaeval quarrying.
After droning for an hour, release them to go to the Chai au Quai. Mark will do the chat there.
Join for a nice long trestle-table cold dejeuner in the Grand Chai with the big doors open and the river looking lovely.
We had (mostly): Roussanne from Couusergues (La Roussanne du Baron), Syrah de Folie, V.O, Grace de l'Hermitage
We pour the tired folk back on the airport bus and go - even tireder - to collapse in deck chairs. Holiday begins.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
Ste Colombe, Chateau Pape Clement, St Emilion
Yoga at 8 with the girls. (Am resolved to get back to regular practice). Take Dick (Boy Racer) to see Le Chai. He is, after all an architect; was in charge of turning that power station into 'Tate Modern'.
I want to show off. Le Chai is lovely in the morning light off the silver river. The Chai is also humming. Wine is being made and first guys doing a stint here are on the phones to customers; "I'm calling from the Chai!" That seems to impress!
But Dick and I must be off to Pessac; suburb of Bordeaux where Haut Brion and the oldest wine estate in Bordeaux; Pape Clement, still sit amazingly among all the bungalows.
Owner Bernard Magrez himself is there to greet us and 30 of our lot just off the plane from Gatwick for an intensive 48hr tour.
Self-made Bernard started out in the wine a little before I did and now owns not only Pape Clement but 30 or so other fine estates around Bordeaux, France and the World.
He gave up being a wine trader to just make wine in his vineyards. He does it very very well. Tanned, fit, immaculately turned out and bursting with new ideas. Gives you hope! But makes you feel a bit scruffy.
Bought a mixed dozen at his lovely shop. Home.
Dinner with the troops in a St Emilion cavern with Jean-Francois Galhaud who has supplied us 20 years or more. His caverns make a nice changed from the overpriced, over-fancy wine-trap shops of St Emilion. He tells me that the town is now down to less than 150 inhabitants!
It’s a gorgeous place. But it isn't a real town anymore.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
I want to show off. Le Chai is lovely in the morning light off the silver river. The Chai is also humming. Wine is being made and first guys doing a stint here are on the phones to customers; "I'm calling from the Chai!" That seems to impress!
But Dick and I must be off to Pessac; suburb of Bordeaux where Haut Brion and the oldest wine estate in Bordeaux; Pape Clement, still sit amazingly among all the bungalows.
Owner Bernard Magrez himself is there to greet us and 30 of our lot just off the plane from Gatwick for an intensive 48hr tour.
Self-made Bernard started out in the wine a little before I did and now owns not only Pape Clement but 30 or so other fine estates around Bordeaux, France and the World.
He gave up being a wine trader to just make wine in his vineyards. He does it very very well. Tanned, fit, immaculately turned out and bursting with new ideas. Gives you hope! But makes you feel a bit scruffy.
Bought a mixed dozen at his lovely shop. Home.
Dinner with the troops in a St Emilion cavern with Jean-Francois Galhaud who has supplied us 20 years or more. His caverns make a nice changed from the overpriced, over-fancy wine-trap shops of St Emilion. He tells me that the town is now down to less than 150 inhabitants!
It’s a gorgeous place. But it isn't a real town anymore.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Monday, 2 August 2010
Chinon to Ste Colombe
Woke in floral attic room of Hotel Diderot, Chinon; the hotel of a hundred homemade jams and marmalades. So... good breakfast in the yard.
Head South almost at random, a dog-leg route across what the call 'La France Profonde'. Here be countless lovely Chateaux, sweet flower-bedecked villages, pretty cows, sunflowers, melon fields, cornfields, stands of maize, and no bloody traffic whatsoever on one of the busiest days of the year.
Lunch at Melle. Picked at random. Beautiful. But then they don't do ugly anywhere here.
Boy Racer loves the roads. He can really drive. Zoom Zoom. We have the thumping rock I used to play to myself in the 70's in my van; 'Brown Sugar' etc. The top down, the sun warm, the wind in the remains of the hair. Not much wrong with today! Blessed. Truly. A sudden need 'to go'! In these vast treeless fields...where? ... and suddenly right ahead of us beside the road, middle of nowhere, materialises a green Tardis ... or Portaloo, just where needed, when needed. France, I love you!
Arrive just in time for Lindsay's birthday dinner up at Le Comptoir de St Genes. The place is packed. Lot of English. All drinking Côtes de Castillon or Laithwaites Sauvignon.
Fine night on the terrace. Eight satellites and three shooting stars before bed.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Head South almost at random, a dog-leg route across what the call 'La France Profonde'. Here be countless lovely Chateaux, sweet flower-bedecked villages, pretty cows, sunflowers, melon fields, cornfields, stands of maize, and no bloody traffic whatsoever on one of the busiest days of the year.
Lunch at Melle. Picked at random. Beautiful. But then they don't do ugly anywhere here.
Arrive just in time for Lindsay's birthday dinner up at Le Comptoir de St Genes. The place is packed. Lot of English. All drinking Côtes de Castillon or Laithwaites Sauvignon.
Fine night on the terrace. Eight satellites and three shooting stars before bed.
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Sunday, 1 August 2010
The Channel to Chinon
In the grey 6am. dawn, Sword Beach is there through the cabin window. We drive off at 7, turn right and run past Gold and Juno. Born in 1945, I just missed, but grew up with 'The War'. Overwheming shadow.
I picture a young Derek Dowsett; second father to me, very gentle person, standing here in '44 as a Normandy Landings 'Beachmaster', foghorn voice creating some order in all the carnage and bullets; an unmissable target that somehow got missed. How DID our parents generation do things like that? I just don't think I could've come close.
On to Le Mont Saint Michel; admired from afar for years but never visited. ...and STILL not visited. The unbelievable crowds!....no! Turned and ran.
Across quiet country past Fougeres to the Loire and Chateau Villandry - because Dick had never seen and I am always keen to go back. Nothing beats the joyous sight of a well-tended vegetable plot. Villandry is vegetable heaven.
Finally to Chinon, and Charles and Phillipa Sydney opening a crusty bottle of 1958 Vouvray on their terrace high over the vineyards; a Chenin wine that started life as frothy fizz for parties but is now still, dry old and amber. Just like many of us really.
(Les Sydneys - more usually pronounced "Sharlayfleepa" and known all along the Loire - used to run our shops 'till the day they bolted for their dream of a little chateau on the Loire. They are now unquestionably the world's experts on, and source of, great Loire wines. Everyone goes to them. Night before it was The Man from Majestic, tomorrow Sainsbury; people who also sell wine, so they tell me. Am v. proud of Les Sydneys).
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
I picture a young Derek Dowsett; second father to me, very gentle person, standing here in '44 as a Normandy Landings 'Beachmaster', foghorn voice creating some order in all the carnage and bullets; an unmissable target that somehow got missed. How DID our parents generation do things like that? I just don't think I could've come close.
On to Le Mont Saint Michel; admired from afar for years but never visited. ...and STILL not visited. The unbelievable crowds!....no! Turned and ran.
Across quiet country past Fougeres to the Loire and Chateau Villandry - because Dick had never seen and I am always keen to go back. Nothing beats the joyous sight of a well-tended vegetable plot. Villandry is vegetable heaven.
Finally to Chinon, and Charles and Phillipa Sydney opening a crusty bottle of 1958 Vouvray on their terrace high over the vineyards; a Chenin wine that started life as frothy fizz for parties but is now still, dry old and amber. Just like many of us really.
(Les Sydneys - more usually pronounced "Sharlayfleepa" and known all along the Loire - used to run our shops 'till the day they bolted for their dream of a little chateau on the Loire. They are now unquestionably the world's experts on, and source of, great Loire wines. Everyone goes to them. Night before it was The Man from Majestic, tomorrow Sainsbury; people who also sell wine, so they tell me. Am v. proud of Les Sydneys).
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)