Southern Rhône Valley Trip – Day two, part three

Our final visit is to the lovely Diffonty family for dinner in their yard (alongside tractors and trailers all clean and ready for harvest starting tomorrow morning). How thoughtless of us to pick this date. Karine has to cook a whole meal whilst – with Jean-Marc – showing us all over their vineyards until Yves finds a photo spot he likes, bathed in the glow of the setting sun.

Karine (in heels) and Jen-Marc Diffonty

But then she is just the most amazing ball of energy, this lovely lady. She does it all AND gets the children from school whilst keeping up the endless chat and peals of laughter.

Best bit was she'd 'forgotten' to change out of her stiletto heels' for the vineyard tour. This got old man Yves going. Which got her going even more. Dancing around in lethal high heels on the great pile of 'galets' which is their vineyard. And she can do it. Looked like a real model doing a fashion shoot. But this is the lady who works this vineyard. I doubt though, that she wears high heels in January, out pruning when the Mistral blows.

But we had some fun. And Jean-Marc just quietly stood there, as he does, smiling fondly while his ball of fire bounced around him. She screamed off to rescue dinner from the oven and we just stood, watched the sun go down and drank his Cuvée Sixtine. Apparently, every so often they send a case of wine to the Vatican and without fail they get back a formal Papal Blessing! Their top wine, named after the Sistine Chapel is undoubtedly my preferred Châteauneuf of all.

We ate, all eight of us, out in their yard by the kitchen door, Karine whizzing in and out with yet another dish - she said it was a light supper.

We drank a beautiful 2003 chosen I think to show that here they make wines the old way...to last. The Diffontys - indeed, all our CNDP suppliers are Traditionalistas who have refused to take the route to overripe, fruitbomb, immediate-drinking, Parker Point-winning, full-fat, soft, black cushion wines. Such wines in a blistering year like 2003 have most likely already fallen apart. But the Vatican 2003 is still gloriously balanced and full of life because they managed to keep the necessary acidity.

Jean-Marc then came up from his cellar with an encrusted, label-less '72. That was an amazing gesture. I know he only has – had – four of these bottles made by his father Fêlicien (also a mayor of Châteauneuf – for 30 years!) Oh! it was so good, out there, under the stars.

Is there a better job than mine? As my dear old PA Clare used to say, I am The Complete Lucky Bastard!

My boy Tom said, when we staggered back to the hotel, that he saw no problem taking on my role. Anytime, Dad. Not quite the same response at 6 am as we crept out of the lovely hotel to join the harvesters on the hill, so Yves could get the 'first-light' shots he so loves. Prancing around on those bloody galets for hours. How do they do it? You could turn your ankle with every step.

Great trip. Clever. We picked the region that's suffered least from weather this year. And, in fact for the last few years.

So … simple message: buy lots of Rhône wine.