Wait for days till the man is happy and says “go”. He waits a long time this year. On
this date last year, we'd already finished vintage. Get up at 6.45, put on layers of clothes and
go out in the pitch dark to get baguettes from the bakery. Hot baguettes. His
oven is blazing still.
Avoid huge harvesting machines with lots of blazing lights
like extraterrestrials that straddle the roads as they race for the next
vineyard. Some of these will have been going all night. The whole region echoes
to their whirring and whooshing. But we are harvesting by hand still.
Neanderthals.
Breakfast is like a silent monastery. We are all wondering
why we are doing this.
There is now some faint light as we assemble at the winery
and get our kit.
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| It's tough on the knees |
Good crop this 'parcelle'.
The highest vineyard in the village. And our ripest. 10 bunches per vine! That's good. Can be just three or four. Fill six pallet boxes – a full trailer – in
an hour and a half. Going really well. Tom shouts he's found a bunch with rot.
That's the only one all morning.
The sun breaks through and disperses the low cloud, we take
off jackets etc and the larks trill away high above and the view down the
valley, vines, villages and spires, to St-Emilion is stunning. You call “pannier”
when your basket is full and the hod carriers come. They shout “hod” and you tip and watch them wince
as the straps bite their shoulders. Grapes are heavy.
Up and down you go, two or three to a row. Bantering away.
Times flies today. Sometimes it drags. But we've had no real wet harvests
lately. The young don't remember any. I do … but 20 years ago.
And so it goes.
Till 12. Which is time to go to La Clarière for vegetable
soup then cauliflower and beetroot salad then pork and potatoes then cheeses
then apple pie then coffee. With a little wine.
Then we sort our grapes in the afternoon, put them in their
tank, tell them a bedtime story, wash
down the equipment, put everything ready for tomorrow and get ready for a BBQ at
the Chai OK with a party of visting staff from around the world and any
customers who happen to be passing.
The evening meal is not at all silent-monastic. Quite the
opposite. Now we know why we do it this way.

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