Friday, 9 July 2010

Ste Colombe. Fanfares and Fireworks.

Flew Southampton to Bergerac. Very hot, Bergerac. Monsieur Ali delivered me to the house. The garden is struggling with the heat but the vineyards are loving it. Simon and Jean-Marc come for a swim before we drive into Castillon for 'Le Grand Ouverture du Chai'.

There's the Maire; Michel - not the same Maire Michel as last time, 'cos Castillon has moved to the right a little - but still someone I've known a fair while... used to cut my hair. Today he has come to cut our ribbon and officially open the whole Chai au Quai. Along with the MP, the Senator, the Police Chief and other notables.

Milling around were about half locals and half Team Laithwaites who were persuaded to come out for the event no matter how busy. Outside, admiring the river in fierce heat, or inside in the cool. Most of Le Chai is not air conditioned but its rear wall is the old town wall; massively thick and permanently damp, it keeps us cool.

Great noise and loud music. Do the ribbon ceremonials then start eating. In the new 'Dorgogne Chai' amongst the barrels and around the new blending tank which looks like a space capsule. You had to admire the Traiteur team working in the heat to produce tray after tray of little delights. The oysters were pronounced 'superbe' by all locals (who really know their oysters - "not easy in July"... from the Isle d'Oleron). There was super Spanish ham. And lots of little glasses with everything from chilled pea purée to snails. And all the Chai whites. We drank too much. But it was still baking hot as night fell.

Then after visits to the new offices etc sat down in the 'Grand Chai' to a wonderful dish of the tenderest pieces of rare beef, shaped to look like fillet steaks except when you cut them they fell apart releasing an exquisite melting fondant which was largely fresh-cooked foie gras I think. With a piping-hot side dish of potatoes in cream... bliss.

The cheeses had to be eaten quickly before they escaped... so perfectly ripe and runny. All with Chai wines; Pomerol, Margaux, St Emilion, Castillon, Roussillon. Pudding came with Mark's lovely Font del Bosc or Jean-Marc's Sauternes. Beautiful speeches in French by Simon, French and English by Clare, followed by a short, incoherent ramble from me. Too happy to make sense. But then this was my life's dream come true. And finally the great doors were slid wide open as, towards eleven it was bearable outside and fireworks were set off across the river.

Glass-clear water meant we got twice the display with the reflections. And so slowly it came to an end. Thank you Libby, Clare... and Anne. Simon and I sat out by the pool with a nightcap of Old Harry. Then he staggered off to bed exhausted for an early start home. I just sat. Overwhelmed. I had to get in the pool eventually with the night still so hot. Could've slept in the water. Luckily didn't, just went to bed dripping.

Finally came the thunder and rain and... It was cool at last.

I cannot promise an event like last night for every visitor to Le Chai au Quai. But I promise there will be Great Times as well as Great Wines to be had there by all who care to come and spend some time with us. We are talking not just visits, but Wine Schools, Tours, Food Fairs, Barbecues and I don't know what else. Like I think I might have said last night; "all this must never stop"... it must always go on... there's lots more to enjoy doing.

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