Once over the bridge we take the rat-run along the riverbank and make it only 10 mins late which, in French terms, is early.
The new tasting room is high art. Why a Zebra? And that poor goldfish in its bottle! RSPCA won't like that. The Grand Vin was a huge b...... , the 'Forts' too. The third wine I found very interesting as very reasonable price and approachable ... within my lifetime.
Then to Pontet Canet and one of the great wine men of Bordeaux. The Tesserons, originally Cognac people, have Bordeaux bred in the bone. So feet on the ground. Not great art. Just well built, sensibly renovated trad chais and three horses working the vineyard. Lovely to see. Alfred is a great believer in simplicity and letting nature look after itself. I like him a lot. Makes me laugh. Dry sense of humour. We all really liked what he's doing there. And we really loved his wine. They say his '05 is up there with the First Growths! His '08 could be too if you ask me. It had immediate attraction.
Then on the Lafite. Eric (Getten) smiling today. (He's given me a right roasting before now.) And Charles (Chevalier) charming, modest and funny as always. Do the cellar visit. Which is a fair old hike! Builds the appetite. To the Salon Rouge for aperitif (Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc) and reminiscing, not easy to relax with all those stern ancestors graring from the walls. Lunch was of course on a par with Pétrus – how much of this can I take? – but we enjoyed their Midi estate - Aussieres - wines which Charles has worked so hard on.
The Los Vascos Reserve (Chile) was fabulous but of course the Lafite was ... no, run out of adjectives on this trip. Peter the photographer had to leave for home early. Not many can have swallowed a glass of '90 Lafite so speedily! He drained every drop. The rest of us adjourn to the Salon Vert - more ancestors - for coffee. Much needed!
Then its on to see Anthony Barton. If I could only visit and buy from one wine producer in France, it would be Anthony.
Not sure how old he actually is. He said he missed his rowing blue being sent down from Cambridge in '48! Still capable of getting girls like Bordeaux buyer, Clare Tooley sighing! And certainly doesn't act the old man. Wicked humour. Irish, of course, but Irish like the Duke of Wellington was Irish. This is a man with more stories than I'll ever have. Makes great wine too and doesn't overcharge.
We end up at Rauzan Segla where we've been invited to stay in their rather nice chateau (owned by the Chanel family!). Surprising as last time I was here, I caused a great fuss by passing out, mid-dinner in front of our hosts and 50 customers. Not my finest hour. Luckily most of the customers were – as usual – medics and didn't bat an eyelid. Called the ambulance and carried on drinking!
As a result of this and a few more such 'turns' I now have a pacemaker. So I tell them, no more need to worry. But then me asking to borrow a battery-charger was a mistake. Much witty hilarity from John Kolasa and Francois Dugoua who run this place and a small, high-class broking operation from whom we get much good stuff.
Dinner is another over-the-top experience and the sleep in the 'Blue room' is deep. Lots more tasting all the following morning but I realise this must be getting boring for you. Fly home.
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