Poor weather actually helps things in Languedoc.
A cooler
and wetter year like 2013 makes for richer fruit characters in wines. They
taste like they came from further north.
The Languedoc is such a vast district, and only just being
properly mapped for wine. You could drive across it for days … and indeed we
do. So much beauty; the bright low sun making the bright yellow vine stems glow and tinting pink the far, but
ever-present, snowy Pyrenees. Farmers are out in the vines pruning. Thin white
trails of smoke rising into the blue sky.
So many miles! There's a lot to check on, lots to discover
and the remoter valleys are where you find the most interesting things
happening.
I first came here over 40 years ago and fell for it. Still
adore the place. It was a problem area back then. Rioting was popular. Similar
to rugby, but more anger and no referee.
The poor farmers lived on what they could grow, gather, trap or shoot.
Most men drank around 3 litres of wine a day. Their poor wives didn't. There
were many widows … always in black.
No farms actually bottled a wine with a label. Wine was sold,
shipped and consumed in bulk. You'd see long trains of tank wagons heading
north; not with petrol, but cheap wine.
But a few wines were just beginning to stand out from a sea
of Vin Ordinaire.
Exciting times. The
late Jean Dubernet, a legendary oenologist, and man-with-a-mission, would take
me out on his daily rounds as he consulted and coaxed his followers - the more
optimistic and energetic farmers - into taking more care, cutting production
and making richer more interesting wines. Hopefully for a better price.
His son Marc continues the good work today, running the
region's biggest laboratory. And forty years later there are such wonderful
wines around. And still not expensive. Le Pere Dubernet would be very happy if
he saw today's Languedoc wine scene.
From crisp, green-tinged dry white to massive black reds and
rich, sweet, late harvested liqueur-like delights, this vast region has
everything. This year we found Gewurztraminer and Riesling to add to the
Merlots, Cabernets, Syrahs, Chenins, Pinots, Chardonnays and all the rest. So,
you could say that in terms of wine, all France is replicated here in the
Languedoc. If allowed only one wine region in France it would have to be Languedoc
and its southern twin Roussillon … together, the Midi.
Our customers have long understood this; the Midi has always
been their most popular region.
 |
| Jean-Luc Terrier |
Some of this morning's Chardonnays in the hills south of
Limoux were still fermenting. But such fruit! We could've been in Burgundy. Jean-Luc
Terrier - their winemaker - would never agree with that, being as he's from
Pouilly Fuissé. But buying 100 hectares of high valley, remote Limoux back in
the '90's is something an outstanding winemaker like him (Deux Roches) would
only do if he saw exceptional possibilities. And indeed … his Pinot Noirs and
Chardonnays are outstanding.
Jean-Luc lives in Burgundy but comes down here every few
weeks. Actual winemaking is in the hands of Mathilde; very young but with a precocious
ability to know exactly what's going on in every single barrel and tank.
 | |
| Joseph Bousquet |
Yesterday saw us stamping feet, and blowing on frozen
fingers in the 4 Pilas estate up near Chateau l'Herault. A great old barn of a
no-frills winery. Barely above freezing. Not what you'd call an immaculate
winery (some panic when I got out my camera!) It’s just the wines that are
immaculate. Joseph Bousquet has a hard life … it shows in his face. Not a man
who sits down much. He's either in his vines, his chai or selling his wines
round France at wine shows and markets.
That's the hard way to build a reputation. But he is certainly getting
there. We love his Pinot Noir. It is our 'Secret.'
 | |
| Beth, Joseph and Mark ... feeling the cold |
Next
Baptiste Tourquebiau and his old dad built their shiny new
cellar with their own hands when they decided to pull out of the local
co-operative and go it alone. The building is work in progress and probably
always will be, but they have good Pinot Noir which goes into our Les Etoiles.
 | |
| Baptiste |
Next.
The Mas de Daumas Gassac must be the most famous Languedoc
Estate and Hugh J calls it ‘The Lafite of
Languedoc' . But it’s a simple farm, really. And a hard-working family … who
have done more than anyone to lift the reputation of these parts and especially
the rocky ridges that comprise the Terrasses du Larzac.
Massive tasting with Samuel and the winemakers of everything
in their tanks, to make our joint blends.
Next
 |
| Vianney Castan and his other obsession |
Just to the south, also on the Terrasses du Larzac is
another little château just acquired by our young friend Vianney Castan which
we think has huge promise. The first year Aimée Guibert harvested his
Daumas-Gassac he hadn't yet built his cellar. So he asked his neighbour at Château
Saint Jean d'Aumières if he could use part of his. So the first vintage of
Daumas-Gassac was made in Vianney's cellar.
 |
| Vintage Aumières |
The place has changed hands many times since. Baffling. But
Vianney, a young lad who we have supported and watched, has worked his way up
to the point where he was able to buy this estate from the receiver. It’s all low
costs here. A small, young husband-and-wife team. Such exciting wines, wines you don't have to
think about … you just want them.
Next
The other place this happens - always - is the Cave de
Roquebrun to the north. A tight little river valley with exceptional brown
schiste soils, unique microclimate … and that vital thing required for a
co-operative to become great: a Strong Man … or Woman, he said quickly. Here it’s
burly, fit, rugby-playing Alain Rogier.
There is a problem with wine co-operatives in France: French
wine farmers are not good at co-operating. You need an Alain. When
fierce-looking Alain says to co-operate, they do. And they are, today, a very
happy and prosperous bunch. Without Alain this winery could be semi-derelict
like others around here. That he is also a genius-level blender of wines is
what does the business. But you have to be a strongman too. Net result is every
time I come here I want to buy EVERYTHING.
Many more miles, many more tastings. The week goes on like
this. Am on the plane home now. Great trip. Thanks Beth.
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