Farther up - then down - the Douro

We saw further evidence of massive investment in new terraced vineyards for wine (not port) in the high Douro valley as it nears the Spanish border. A steep, north-facing slope there is shared by two of Portugal’s most respected winemakers: Jose Maria Soares Franco (responsible for 'Barca Velha' - Portugal's own 'Vega Sicilia' - for over 20 years) and João Portugal Ramos. They call it The Duorum Project.

Next door, Jean-Michel Cazes – possibly the most able Bordeaux Château owner of his generation – has his new estate. If Monsieur Cazes is interested enough to sink a lot of money in this area, it is certainly a place to watch.

The wines we tried at the Duorum Project reinforced our belief. Duorum is based in a newly built drystone eyrie above the very steep vine terraces and cliffs where eagles do, in fact, make their home. We will be launching our first exclusive project with them, named ‘Altitude by Duorum’, in our June catalogue so look out for it!

Then we made our way by the old winding roads to Pinhão, the beating heart of the Douro wine region. Here the terracing goes highest and with two tributary valleys joining there's the effect of a grand canyon of vineyards. Even at this time when the vines are just bare stumps it is impressive.

The weather is grey and drizzly as we make our way up past the most famous Quinta of all; Quinta do Noval. Then up the valley to tea beside a warm fire – with a warm welcome from  Cristina Van Zeller in her lovely little Casa de Vilarinho de S. Romão, where she does bed and breakfast. Judging by the Guest Book accolades she is very popular with the British. Anne always stays here. Very reasonable and the homemade biscuits, cakes, jams … to die for.

We are joined by my dear wife, Simon, and Andrew; half the Laithwaite's Board are gathered. The others will join us in Oporto tonight. I have always felt it important that from time to time I give those who look after things financial and managerial for the Company a little glimpse of the glories of wine. I'd bring everyone here if I could. And every customer. There's no-one who would not be amazed by a region like the Douro.

Carlos

In the evening we are joined by our favourite 'Portugueses' Carlos and Fernando – they do an act like they're Portugal's Morecambe and Wise but they are peerless wine men. Around Christina's large table there's also the imposing presence of Fernando's cousin Cristiano Van Zeller who used to run Quinta do Noval for the family until, sadly, like several of the world's most glamorous wine estates it was sold to Axa Insurance. Noval is, I'm glad to say,  a very rare example of  Corporate takeover in this area which remains strongly 'family'. I have nothing against insurance Companies personally, as long as they pay up, but I will always be convinced that in matters wine, families do it better. But then I would say that, wouldn't I?   

Cristiano - in a Sunday Times Wine Club rugby shirt

In this part of Portugal the vineyard owners and the Port Shippers seem to be all related to one another. There are many British port families who have been here for generations and are still excessively British, if you know what I mean.  And there is a similar contingent of Portuguese, all speaking perfect English, and as I say, all related.

It is a good evening with a simple hot pot sort of dish called ‘Cozido Portuguesa’. Our wine producer friends took turns to pour and explain their wines. Eg. Cristiano’s 'VZ' white and red and Jorge’s Quinta do Passadouro Reserva '07 which we bought a parcel of last year. It’s tasting great now! All very fascinating.

Climb into a big bed with brass knobs on and sleep like a baby. It is so silent up here at the top of the valley. Just dogs shouting 'goodnight' to each other across the valley. Great Breakfast. Madeira cake with Quince jam. I really do recommend this place.

Passadouro Estate

Then off down the most vertiginous track ever, down the valley to Jorge's little Passadouro estate. The sun is blazing today as we tour the vineyards and taste on the terrace above the laden orange trees. Jorge makes great wine. Just a bit expensive. But we'll see what Anne's powers of persuasion can do. They've all done advanced negotiation courses our buyers; they get blood out of stones as a matter of course.

But clearly the Producers here all love Anne – and she Adores them – but when the topic of price comes up you see them visibly flinch.
 
Then, there is yet more scary driving down then up little tracks to Cristiano's 'new' estate' which he runs with a little band of beauties; wife, daughter and other lovelies. Some steep walking up to another terrace with spectacular views and no less spectacular wines to try.

Then it’s down to Oporto to our hotel in Villanova de Gaia set amidst all the great Port Lodges with that spectacular view across the river to the old town.