Marlborough

First visit in Marlborough; Dr John. Dr Forrest is a big man. A big science boffin until he came back to the family farm. From mixed farming he moved into vines. His father warned him not to. And never to buy the poor scrubland down by the river.

But that's what he bought. Not soil as we know it, just rocks. Greywacke boulders going down who knows how deep were a bit of a challenge even for vines, but turned out the rockier it is the finer the wine. His best wine is called Field of Stones.

He took me to look at the river … water was low; great expanse of rocks rolled down by the floods "vineyards in the making" he said. "We've always swum here. When you come out of the water and lie on the rocks in the sun, as you dry you get that slightly salty mineral smell. That's what my Field of Stones has.” Distilled essence of a very good place. Not like what he calls the modern sweatier style of Sauvignon. His Stonewall wines are also stone dry sauvignon but with a touch of 'tropical'.

At the river the fantails twitter and flutter around you. You are flattered such pretty things follow you, but they are just harvesting the little flies and bugs you are disturbing.

Dr John has built a handsome business. Good visit if you are passing. Frankie the new dog - spaniel/collie will welcome you. I like the loudspeakers fitted throughout the winery so the Doc and his boys can keep rocking along through the long nights of vintage.

Dr John has energy! Five months travelling the world marketing his wares. Not for the fainthearted, this wine game.

Then we go just down the road to Wairau River.

Phil and Chris Rose got into vine growing very early. Montana was this region's first winery and Phil was their first contract grower. They were mixed farmers who switched to wine. They too have done well and have a big following. Also a big family. Five children all busy producing grandchildren and all also in the business. The group photo fills a wall in their new tasting room. They have a cracking restaurant with food all home produced and delicious.

Finally we go up the valley to the higher vineyards and one called Duck and Pheasant because, believe it or not there's a duck and a pheasant living wild around the dam next door. We wait but of course they don't come out today! This is Ant Moore's place. Ant the Aussie lives part here, part in Wagga Wagga, Oz and is a great 'networker' … knows everyone in the NZ wine world. He makes wine for us and also finds us some wonderful deals from his many friends – 'finds' we'd never hear of otherwise.

After, just time for a local beer and pizza before bed at 8.45 and instant sleep.