A day in the cool hills

Went up into the hills to see Michael Fragos at Chapel Hill which is, not too surprisingly, a winery in a converted chapel. Except it's grown somewhat. Michael has won enough awards to be considered the finest winemaker in these parts. Same old Michael though. Just like in the good old Tatachilla days. Never gets old. Henry, 17, did his apprenticeship under Michael.

Then further up the hills to David Hickinbotham's incrediby beautiful estate. He brought his 85 year old Dad, Alan, along and we photographed the pair of them standing in front of their gorgeous valley of vines they began planting back in the Seventies.

We inspected David's shed. Converted shearing shed with tin foil insulation; all very 'sheddiste'. Surprisingly modest. Hicks family build, I believe, more houses than any other developer in Australia, and have done for decades. Wine is a sideline. Serious one, though. It was a Hickinbotham uncle who set up Australia's great Wine College; Roseworthy, which trained the winemakers who made Aussie wine what it is today.

Then a very special visit. David was 'Eco' well before eco was invented. He was always going on about his underground house that needed no air conditioning and little heating. Thirty years old now. Built in stone. And so quiet. Peaceful view through gum trees to the vineyards. I'd like one of those. David's idea was to show the government what the ideal house for the Aussie climate should look like. They turned him down of course. And it's got a lot hotter since.

Another approach to the heat thing is Geoff Hardy's. The terrace of his house on the water has to be the nicest place for a tasting on a hot day. Build a dam and put a wood house on stilts over the pond. I'd like one of those too.

His daughter Jess, now winemaker for us at RedHeads, took us there - it's just outside the McLaren Vale region in Adelaide Hills. Jess' sister Bec - another beauty - organised, Dad relaxed. As much as you can with a walkie-talkie strapped to your head and four hundred acres being harvested. Only one or two Hardy's have anything to do with their old firm which is part of Constellation now. Sad, I think, for the family, but they're a tough lot and wine - usually ground-breaking wine is, and always will be, in their blood.

Stayed too long, eating the tastiest Sauvignon grapes ever. Got to Scarpantoni's late. And they'd gone home. Oh Dear. I'm in trouble! No-one messes with the Scarpantoni's. This might be my last Diary.

Late supper at The Victory. Doug looking fit and well. New woman!

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