Monday, 18 January 2010

This morning, still very cold. Put on two more layers of wool.

Tasted all this year's Chai whites - "best Sauvignon this century" says JMS as he does every year. But this year think he's right. Extra pungent after long, sunny-but-not-hot summer.

Thankfully tasting was moved from brass-monkey Chai to almost warm La Clariere.

Then it was lunch at Pape Clement; magificent chateau in the suburbs at Pessac. It's the HQ of the equally magnificent Bernard Magrez; now 74, sharp as a razor, still gushing out idea after idea whilst his Jeeves shimmies about dispensing heavenly morsels.

I made a fuss about my 40th year in business. Bernard's way past his 50th! Local boy but no silver-spoon, started, washing bottles, chez Cordier, now has 37 estates around the world! A phenomenon. He's the one reponsible for Gerard Depardieu doing so much in wine; they jointly own several Chateaux. More recently he's got together with Joël 'more-Michelin-stars-than-anyone-ever' Rebuchon.

We might work together too. Bernard will be our first guest when we open Laithwaites new London cellars in Vinopolis.

Then it's over to Christian Moueix - ultra charming as ever - and Edouard. Much excitement about '09. Christian - who remembers everything - says he's already been drinking '09's for lunch - even Petrus - something he's not done since '82! It's one of those rare instantly-likeable vintages.

Then we head off to Christophe Reboul-Salz's Chateau Gigault. We sell his Grands Marechaux. Found it with some difficulty in the pitch dark. Roaring fires, lovely old house. Used to be a coaching inn. Marie cooked scallops (with sliver of truffle) and an Auvergnat (they're from there) dish of potatoes and lamb, while Christophe opened a 1970 Larciss Ducasse, Palmer '96 and Pontet Canet. Up to bed thinking that I agree with Monsieur Magrez; "Retire? From this 'job'. You must be kidding!".

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