Back to Bordeaux for two ceremonies.

First, last night, was the Grand Ouverture of the Comptoir de Genes, in Saint Genes; next village to ours. Barbara, Henry and I undertook, last year, to renovate the building housing the village shop and bar, plus the derelict barn alongside.

We didn't want to lose our shop and funny old bar. Claudy, Madame La Maire de St Genes (and with us at Laithwaites for 36 years!) really didn't want to lose the heart and soul of her village when M. Guimberteau decided to retire. Anne-Marie Galineau, dynamic little mother of 3 small boys packed in her well-paid job and started to learn how to run a corner-shop. But her dream was of a wine-warehouse-cum-restaurant that would provide - at last - an opportunity for people to enjoy, under one roof, the riches of Castillon wine. (Husband; Vincent Galineau is a good grower.)

For Castillon which has no trouble putting on, every summer for over 30 years, twenty performances of a slick, professional, son-et-lumiere re-enactment of C15th life and the bloody Battle of Castillon, (800 actors, 60 horses, oxen, goats, geese, you name it), has just never seemed able to introduce its great wines in any effective way to the world.

Anne-Marie has done it in 6 months. You have got to see this place. It’s full most lunchtimes of St Emilion merchants and producers, finding out what their neighbours can do. And worrying a bit maybe. There are tourists and there are locals.  She's got it just right. €14 all-in lunches and wines at cellar-door prices (just €6 corkage to drink it in the restaurant).  It opened in June and has been pretty much booked-out ever since. So in a way, last night's Big Opening was superfluous. In another way it was vital for all the young team to get their applause, and for the good growers of our region to get together - on the eve of a promising vintage - and let their hair down.

Wine flowed, Chef Lucie sent round plate after plate of delicious morsels and little St Genes had probably the brightest night in its entire existence.  Remember the name; Comptoir de Genes.

Me, this morning, I'm not remembering too much detail at all. Except to see something like this pulled-off in the face of implacable 'Non's' from the world's most stifling bureaucratic culture, gladdens the heart. Gives hope.

Ann-Marie looked radiant but we saw, in the tears shed during her speech, what this has taken out of her. She needs a little rest. Then on to Phase 2. Oh! Yes! There's more to come.

Comptoir de Genes. Google it. Visit it. Say I sent you.


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