I set my phone alarm to wake me for four am but got it wrong again (it’s still on UK time … so am I) so I’m lying here ready and wide awake. Might as well write diary! It’s cool outside. But apparently this isn't going to last. 40 degrees, hot winds and more fires are expected soon. We shall have to be careful. We've seen the charred bits of landscape and yesterday was a National Day of Mourning for those killed in the fires.
We were in Sydney yesterday. We had a subdued lunch on Circular Quay with John Casella, Bill Calabria and the whole Sydney Office team. Our Sarah MacLean came. Her family just lost their home and old Yarra winery to the fire. But they are alive. I do hope we can buy their wine. We must do what we can to help.
Strange cries in the night. Possums apparently. Outside in the pitch black. Earlier, the noises were partying girls in the corridors; much more frightening! The Southern Aurora Sydney to Melbourne train came hooting and clanging past at 1.30; a very long train.
Andrew McPherson has arrived so time to move.. …
He drives us to the Nagambie winery all lit up and buzzing in the dark. POW! The first whiff of fresh crushed grapes in 2009 hits my old cortex. Sauvignon Blanc without a doubt. That noseful has the effect (I guess!) of cocaine or something on others. Am wide awake now, hibernation over, vintage is on! Fire up the engines!Andrew’s Sinclair Vineyard is vast. Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, Verdelho … and a bunch of bouncing grey shapes in the mist. Or is it dust? Kangaroos! Is there a weirder-looking animal in motion? They panic before our headlights, every now and then bouncing extra high over the fence to escape, till there's only one left. Not a jumper obviously. He finally bounds into the vineyard. Mmm. Not clever. An hour later we hear a rifle shot. Poor Skippy.
We find a tractor loading bins in the dark and follow it through the dark vineyard maze to the harvesting machine. Still pitch black. And bloody cold in just a shirt. In this huge vineyard under a huge, spectacular Milky Way … we wait. Quick lovely hot coffee in the shed with the guys. They only harvest at night. By nine they'll be home in bed. Or down the pub for 'breakfast'.
Where's the sodding dawn? Ah! (looking the wrong way). First hint of red. There's an hour’s difference with Sydney here. Back to the big machine for a ride in the dim light. Like being on a ship high above the green waves. We finished up the photo shoot with the harvesting machine as it got light. Some astounding images.
Then off to see the McPherson winery where we clambered over a lot of tanks, and across to the oldest winery in Australia; Chateau Tahbilk. I realise my route is beginning to bear a resemblance to a great wine trek I did here back in 1985. Back then, Australian wine was not exported. But there was a great buzz around the industry. They were beginning to realise that their wines could compete very well in Europe, but it was difficult to persuade some to take the plunge.
Since then, the wine world has changed dramatically. Mostly by Aussies. Two leading stars back then were Brian Croser at Petaluma and James Halliday at Coldstream Hills. I went to see them both, sat at their tables and learnt a lot. Since then, whilst they both continue to have enormous influence, they both had their wineries bought from under them by multinationals. This happened to so many who had raised capitol by floating on the Stock Exchange. I thank my lucky stars we never did that.
Click here to check out my original Great Wine Trek. It’s interesting to see what has and what hasn't changed in the intervening quarter century.
Anyway, after wandering the dark sheds and cellars – older than most in Europe – and photographing the 150 year old vines, Andrew took us home for coffee and toast on the veranda. It was then decided that the old guy (me) needed a rest having been up since 3am. So back to hotel to crash out. Then back to Andrew and Nikki's again for lunch on the veranda with a couple of the winemakers and all the dogs. Then back to the pub for a shoot in the bar with bottles of Coopers Ale! (Breakfast). Winery workers and craggy barman Eddie. But the light's changing!So we pack it in and leave for the Yarra Valley …
An hour across country and suddenly all goes black and there's a smell of wood ash. Not nice. Police divert us. Fires are still burning. Black bits intermingled crazily with bits that look fine show how unpredictable the fire was. Eventually to Healesville, Dr Tony Jordan – The Doctor – and the wacky winery called Giant Steps. The dreamchild of a guy called Phil Sexton who has an odd imagination like mine but with no one to restrain him.
Phil qualified as a Master Brewer at Birmingham (UK) and started a brand called Little Creatures in Perth (Oz). Sold out. Started this revolutionary winery in the middle of town. First he built the overhead crane, then with this crane he built the winery. The crane makes the whole winery flexible, so there’s no need for pumps. Just gravity. As little handling/bashing grapes as possible. Lovely Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Bolted on the winery behind glass wall is the cellar door that is RedHeads times ten and very popular. Except no-one’s coming to a fire zone just now. Place is dead. But it’s wacky and hippy. With a wood fired pizza oven, cheese cellar, HUGE wine list, brassiere food, shop and that old Monty Python audio sketch about Aussie Wine playing on a loop in the gents.We have a great dinner. After, Doctor Jordan takes us to a B & B in two cabins in the dark. Collapse. Wake at 2:30am so start writing. Can hear Yves doing something photographic next door. Otherwise the night is silent. And I like that. Because if the wind got up we would have to run. Fires were still burning in the hills above us. Nowhere was safe if the wind blew hard. Those fires can move at over 100kph if it blows. But it didn't. The fires are moving away from us apparently, it’s not hot and there's still no wind I can hear. Anyway, time to try for more sleep …we're to be up to watch harvesting by actual people at seven.
Up at dawn and drove to Phil Sexton’s vineyard …
Brown patches in the green. The fire had stopped right at the edge but flying, burning bark embers had rained down and started grass fires under the vines. Those grapes had had it, but the pickers were harvesting anything untouched. And it was amazingly aromatic. Picked a row just to show I could. The Doctor came and took us off to meet James Halliday at his Coldstream Hills eyrie. Just as he had 24 years ago! James is two days off the deadline for his annual book. Looked a bit exhausted.This time Greg was there though. Greg Jarratt was a great Flying Winemaker for us in Bordeaux through the Nineties. The best, but best remembered for leaving the St Vivien hill road in such spectacular fashion the hire car had to be retrieved from ten feet up a tree! Looked well, did the boy. Amazed he's still alive really.
More visits, more wine … De Bortoli's were inspiring, and Chandon just amazing. I want cases of all four wines tasted there sent to my home as soon as they arrive. The Doctor (who retired from Chandon last year) left his mark alright! Bloody genius. Stroppy sometimes but that's genius for you! He and Michele gave us a lovely lunch
On way to central Melbourne we went to look at these young guns who are experimenting with foot stomping and I finished the day up to my knees in cool Pinot Noir … cold Coopers in hand, of course. Very Australian.
Part two coming soon …
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