Did you watch that disturbing TV programme on Monday?

The disturbing TV programme about wine. I thought we'd be flooded with worried calls. But apparently we only got one! And he went away totally reassured.

Maybe you didn't worry because you have actually read my words. You know we don't ever do any BIG BRAND wines. Heaven forbid! We only like family-run wineries and co-operatives. I started by working in a co-op winery. I like co-ops a lot; they allow the small growers to keep their beloved traditions but also compete worldwide.

We do offer some well-known brand Champagnes but that's only because some customers insist on them. And some are really very good. And we must listen to customers. But actually we always recommend small producer and village co-operative Champagnes as a better bet. For me, in wine, small is always better. I see no reason to make an exception in Champagne.

As for this Champagne thing about strewing Parisian rubbish as fertiliser, I confess I never did understand that. I remember it starting in the 70's. It looked awful and still does, although it's mostly gone now. But the growers told me it was more or less imposed on them by the local council. Some sort of ecological thing. I accepted that. I mean, local councils can do dotty things. You have to accept them. I don't think my grower friends were ever keen on it but, you know, who dares say no to recycling?

As for the Italian making wine from just sugar and acids! It beggars belief. But the crazy ones are always with us. Luckily only one or two. I remember a big case years ago where they were using banana skins! Doesn't bear thinking about!

All these revelations confirm my belief that we here at Laithwaites must never cease to travel to source our wines. Travel, travel, travel. Meet the growers, poke round the cellars, ask around, check up, verify, taste and taste again ... all the time taste, check. Takes time. Costs money. But must be done.

Order here with total confidence.