It’s tough, being a travelling wine buyer. But … buying wine without first visiting just didn't work for me. Still doesn't.
"Ah … you'll be the bloke who likes to stick his nose into everything" became our reputation. Also, "the people who interfere" and other, ruder expressions. And that was in the days before we went so far as to put our own winemakers in.
Germany: it was Hugh Johnson got me started there, taking me round all the famous cellars. We used to sell a lot of German wine. Then, suddenly, no-one wanted it. I hope that never happens with claret!
Austria: I don't remember his name but a lovely guy from the wine promotion people took me all over. I particularly liked all the little 'Heurige' wineries in the Vienna suburbs. There you sat with customers out from the city, on benches in the winery enjoying roast meats washed down with the new wines drawn straight from the barrel. These guys never had to bother bottling the stuff. They started pouring when it was half-fermented and milky-white, and were often out of wine by Christmas. Great business! Austria is another country that suddenly 'lost it'. Just as I'd shipped a massive order! Beautiful wines - no glycol at all - but took us years to sell!
California: again, it was Hugh Johnson who took me and a dozen customers on an unforgettable tour round the nascent wine industry. Mondavi, Heitz, Gallo - met all the great men in their prime. The wineries, the sheer exuberance and imagination, that energy and entrepreneurship - stoked my fires (which were running a bit low due to the UK, 3-day weeks, etc).
New Zealand: thanks to their Government, I and Colin Anderson, buyer for Grants of St James, got a free trip to Kiwi land and an escorted tour by air around every wine district. The finale was a great barbecue with just about every wine producer in the land … not all that many because the Marlborough Sauvignon global success had not yet taken off.
But it was about to - all the elements were in place … and a mad Ulsterman called Ernie Hunter lit the fuse.
He brought his Sauvignon to our Sunday Times Vintage Festival in London and won 'Wine of the Show'. He won it overwhelmingly. He won it every year he came over. Every time. It was a wine with a volume of flavour no-one had ever experienced before. Though it was also true that Ernie himself had a volume of persuasiveness I've never known before or since.
Jane Hunter, OBE (she carried Ernie's work to great heights after his untimely death) tells everyone that show result - broadcast very loudly by Ernie - was when New Zealand wine suddenly hit the world stage.
Australia: bit naughty but on that free trip I did excuse myself for a couple of days and shot over to Oz. I had a mate there, David Thomas (who I was helping to start his business; Cellarmasters. Not perhaps my smartest move ever; helping set up our biggest rival!) and he flew me up the Hunter Valley for a whistle-stop tour. First winery I went in there's this cry from the top of a tank: "Tony, you old bastard! What you doing here?" I'd only ever met one Aussie winemaker - working in Bordeaux - and there he was … working for a Barossa outfit in a Hunter Valley winery.
That got me thinking … So, you can move winemakers around, can you? And work in other peoples wineries, can you?
New idea!
It must have been at this point - mid eighties - that Australia took over from France as my main teacher in wine. Been pretty much that way ever since.
Chile, South Africa and Argentina was roughly the remaining order, I think.
Expensive travel, but it seemed to be necessary that I actually go to each place for the wines to sell well.
You do whatever seems to work!
I travelled between one and two weeks a month depending on the season.
It was all very well swanning around; the hard part was still selling it. But the customers - Wine Club Members mostly - were up for it! I do so love them all!
Millions of words. Tons of literature! (We overdid that a bit).
Thing is back then, wine was all so new to most people. They wanted to try everything! And I was happy to go get it.
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Wednesday, 30 March 2011
How Laithwaites happened. Part ten
Going beyond France was when we seriously started selling wine. These longer-distance travels did result in much bigger sales.
To Spain, first, because it’s just down the road from Bordeaux. Real success with Rioja and a very inexpensive Jumilla wine called 'Monte Alegré' which became our 'house' red. A full container (800 cases) sailed every week from Bilbao. I think that was the first truly 'everyday' wine on the market that was bottled abroad.
Then - for odd reasons - came Bulgaria.
An old Hatfield College friend called to say he was going to Bulgaria to buy tractors, did I want to come? Pat was very bright; a natural trader (he is now Lord Pat)! We flew Air Bulgaria in a converted bomber which still had its Perspex gun-blisters. The stewardess came round with an iron kettle and tea bags.
Sofia was mostly uniformed soldiers. Alarming. Felt I was watched everywhere.
I sat outside a small office at 5 Lavele St. for two days until granted audience with the man who controlled ALL Bulgarian wine sales: the boss of the State Monopoly, Vinimpex.
I did not seem to impress him.
But his bright young assistant, a Mr Todorov was more encouraging and spoke English. These were the days of barter deals with the Communists, what with them having no real currency. Comrade Todorov told me to meet up with a guy from a famous Cola. Seems his Company had just put in a plant and got paid in wine which they didn't know what to do with. It was very good stuff: Cabernet Sauvignon, rich, dark, soft and better than anything else at the price I'd ever tried. There were more jokes in the Press but 'Balkan Vine Bulgarian Cab' took over from the old 'Monty Alegry'.
We started to ship shedloads. Well, shiploads. For a year or so we could've changed our name from Bordeaux ... to Bulgaria Direct. In fact the Bulgarians really wanted us to.
We got to know the Bulgarians very well. Big deputations would come to our office. The man they always seemed to defer to was the driver. Big chap, bulging arms. When that poor dissident guy Markov got bumped off with the poison tip umbrella, I was pretty sure I knew who done it. Still, we resisted the offer to go 100% Bulgarian.
However I led a customer tour round Bulgaria for the Sunday Times Wine Club. We did meet the Archbishop, and other notables but it was, without doubt, the most alcoholic week of our lives. Not just the volumes of wine, or the endless proposing of toasts to fraternal brothers in wine. The killer was that sweet plum brandy they constantly served up, piping hot. This was what kept the entire country in a subdued state, is my belief. Worked on me!
To Spain, first, because it’s just down the road from Bordeaux. Real success with Rioja and a very inexpensive Jumilla wine called 'Monte Alegré' which became our 'house' red. A full container (800 cases) sailed every week from Bilbao. I think that was the first truly 'everyday' wine on the market that was bottled abroad.
Then - for odd reasons - came Bulgaria.
An old Hatfield College friend called to say he was going to Bulgaria to buy tractors, did I want to come? Pat was very bright; a natural trader (he is now Lord Pat)! We flew Air Bulgaria in a converted bomber which still had its Perspex gun-blisters. The stewardess came round with an iron kettle and tea bags.
Sofia was mostly uniformed soldiers. Alarming. Felt I was watched everywhere.
I sat outside a small office at 5 Lavele St. for two days until granted audience with the man who controlled ALL Bulgarian wine sales: the boss of the State Monopoly, Vinimpex.
I did not seem to impress him.
But his bright young assistant, a Mr Todorov was more encouraging and spoke English. These were the days of barter deals with the Communists, what with them having no real currency. Comrade Todorov told me to meet up with a guy from a famous Cola. Seems his Company had just put in a plant and got paid in wine which they didn't know what to do with. It was very good stuff: Cabernet Sauvignon, rich, dark, soft and better than anything else at the price I'd ever tried. There were more jokes in the Press but 'Balkan Vine Bulgarian Cab' took over from the old 'Monty Alegry'.
We started to ship shedloads. Well, shiploads. For a year or so we could've changed our name from Bordeaux ... to Bulgaria Direct. In fact the Bulgarians really wanted us to.
We got to know the Bulgarians very well. Big deputations would come to our office. The man they always seemed to defer to was the driver. Big chap, bulging arms. When that poor dissident guy Markov got bumped off with the poison tip umbrella, I was pretty sure I knew who done it. Still, we resisted the offer to go 100% Bulgarian.
However I led a customer tour round Bulgaria for the Sunday Times Wine Club. We did meet the Archbishop, and other notables but it was, without doubt, the most alcoholic week of our lives. Not just the volumes of wine, or the endless proposing of toasts to fraternal brothers in wine. The killer was that sweet plum brandy they constantly served up, piping hot. This was what kept the entire country in a subdued state, is my belief. Worked on me!
Tuesday, 29 March 2011
How Laithwaites happened. Part nine
So, throughout the 70's I travelled all over France. I wanted to 'bag' every wine region - no matter how tiny - on Hugh's maps of France.
From the French Moselle, the Côtes de Toul in the north to Apremont on the Swiss border to Bellet and Bandol in the south to the Isle de Ré and the Pays de Retz in the west, I did bag them all. Didn't do much for my sales but then I wasn't too fussed about that. As I said earlier, I had started my Company in the full expectation it would never make money. So I just did what I loved doing: exploring the backwaters of France.
It was all pre-Autoroute and many of these places were so remote they'd never seen a foreign wine merchant before. The welcome was always so warm. I miss those meals where it seemed every course had been home-grown or hunted or collected from local woods and hedgerows.
Then, in the '80's, I did them all again, systematically, and now sent customers my diary, sketches and little map of each chapter of the journey - called 'Laithwaites Great Wine Trek' ("Boldly going" … etc ) … which a customer made into a book he published - Harrap - which can still be found in second-hand bookshops - £1.99 in Ludlow last week!
Sold over 20,000 books. But not much wine.
I have yet to bring out the promised Volume Two, though I've written enough words - several times over - in my diary ever since, as I continued and extended my 'Trek' around the world.
From the French Moselle, the Côtes de Toul in the north to Apremont on the Swiss border to Bellet and Bandol in the south to the Isle de Ré and the Pays de Retz in the west, I did bag them all. Didn't do much for my sales but then I wasn't too fussed about that. As I said earlier, I had started my Company in the full expectation it would never make money. So I just did what I loved doing: exploring the backwaters of France.
It was all pre-Autoroute and many of these places were so remote they'd never seen a foreign wine merchant before. The welcome was always so warm. I miss those meals where it seemed every course had been home-grown or hunted or collected from local woods and hedgerows.
Then, in the '80's, I did them all again, systematically, and now sent customers my diary, sketches and little map of each chapter of the journey - called 'Laithwaites Great Wine Trek' ("Boldly going" … etc ) … which a customer made into a book he published - Harrap - which can still be found in second-hand bookshops - £1.99 in Ludlow last week!
Sold over 20,000 books. But not much wine.
I have yet to bring out the promised Volume Two, though I've written enough words - several times over - in my diary ever since, as I continued and extended my 'Trek' around the world.
Monday, 28 March 2011
A day in Wyfold vineyard
Sun shines, birds in fine voice, lambs on springs, Spring is really sprung. Ah the sweet peace of it all … well, there is our pile driver banging in the new steel trellising.
The girls have given up on wooden posts which they chose for all sorts of fine eco reasons. But either they were flogged a duff load of timber or pine posts just can't cope with the strain, or the British climate; they rotted and began falling over.
So now it’s bright galvanised steel posts – like Henry is very happy with in his vineyard.
Barbara, who had worked like crazy to prune the vines back to one or two spurs before we went to South America, now starts to work like crazy tying them down, horizontally on to the fruiting wire. (The lads doing the trellising managed to keep this wire in place while doing their work. The other six wires; three pairs that hold up the canopy when it grows, lie on the ground for now.) B has to get the tying down done before bud burst which cannot be far off as the buds have started going woolly. But then her tying machine battery goes flat and the charger doesn't work!
Gnashing of teeth, etc.
Meanwhile, up in London, at our Arch, a very nice lady won our bottle of Château Lafite 1983 - worth a huge amount of money - in our Annual Lucky Dip.
The girls have given up on wooden posts which they chose for all sorts of fine eco reasons. But either they were flogged a duff load of timber or pine posts just can't cope with the strain, or the British climate; they rotted and began falling over.
So now it’s bright galvanised steel posts – like Henry is very happy with in his vineyard.
Barbara, who had worked like crazy to prune the vines back to one or two spurs before we went to South America, now starts to work like crazy tying them down, horizontally on to the fruiting wire. (The lads doing the trellising managed to keep this wire in place while doing their work. The other six wires; three pairs that hold up the canopy when it grows, lie on the ground for now.) B has to get the tying down done before bud burst which cannot be far off as the buds have started going woolly. But then her tying machine battery goes flat and the charger doesn't work!
Gnashing of teeth, etc.
Meanwhile, up in London, at our Arch, a very nice lady won our bottle of Château Lafite 1983 - worth a huge amount of money - in our Annual Lucky Dip.
Friday, 25 March 2011
Dairy? No diary … come and have a glass
Next Big Event is the thirty-somethingth Sunday Times London Vintage Festival at the Lawrence Hall, Westminster on April 15th and 16th.
I'll be there, God willing, like I've been there every session for thirty- something years. Propping up one stall or another, gassing away.
I must say it’s been one of my better ideas, and it’s lasted. Other wine festivals come, and soon go. The VF goes on. And on. Because it’s brilliant.
I'm the co-founder and co-chairman of The Sunday Times Wine Club - with Hugh Johnson as our illustrious President. H and I always insisted that a proper Club had to be, well, 'Clubby'. Which is, basically, lots of chaps of all ages and genders getting together for civilized drinks.
Also, I can't get enough of my winemaker chums. I go see them whenever I can but there's rather a lot of them and the world is big, so it’s good to get them together in London once a year. That plan really worked. They love it. They all say our Wine Clubbers are the best audience they ever meet anywhere in the world.
It’s fantastic to walk into the hall Friday morning when it’s all set up like a big French market, the sun streaming through the great glass roof, the last minute hammering and blu-takking. And there they all are … "Bonjour", "Salut", "Hola", "G'day", "Hi" and so forth - what a linguist, eh?
"Try this, no, try this …" Tugged here there … And so it goes on for two happy days. The sainted Hugh gets up and speaks every now and then. Don't know what he speaks but has no affect whatever on all the chatter going on as everyone suddenly finds that wine allows you to speak Portuguese or Moldovan. Animated! By the end it’s more than animated.
But … hardly ever a real drunk. A man did once fall over in the foyer but that was my late father in law and it wasn't the drink, it was his TNT spray that did it.
I say all this because I've just heard there are a couple hundred tickets left unsold. So there's a chance for non-Members to get in to this; possibly the best wine fair on the planet and one of London’s best kept secrets.
Try lotsa wines … but, please, don't overdo it! Keep our Club code. There are spittoons. And after all these years, people realise they are a very good idea if you want to try everything … i.e. hundreds of wines. The growers come at their expense - and they are mostly not wealthy people - because they like the people they meet; people who want to know more … and don’t get blootered like they do at Paris shows.
You'll be very welcome. Find all the information you need – including how to buy your tickets, pricing, times and directions – at sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk.
See you there.
I'll be there, God willing, like I've been there every session for thirty- something years. Propping up one stall or another, gassing away.
I must say it’s been one of my better ideas, and it’s lasted. Other wine festivals come, and soon go. The VF goes on. And on. Because it’s brilliant.
I'm the co-founder and co-chairman of The Sunday Times Wine Club - with Hugh Johnson as our illustrious President. H and I always insisted that a proper Club had to be, well, 'Clubby'. Which is, basically, lots of chaps of all ages and genders getting together for civilized drinks.
Also, I can't get enough of my winemaker chums. I go see them whenever I can but there's rather a lot of them and the world is big, so it’s good to get them together in London once a year. That plan really worked. They love it. They all say our Wine Clubbers are the best audience they ever meet anywhere in the world.
"Try this, no, try this …" Tugged here there … And so it goes on for two happy days. The sainted Hugh gets up and speaks every now and then. Don't know what he speaks but has no affect whatever on all the chatter going on as everyone suddenly finds that wine allows you to speak Portuguese or Moldovan. Animated! By the end it’s more than animated.
But … hardly ever a real drunk. A man did once fall over in the foyer but that was my late father in law and it wasn't the drink, it was his TNT spray that did it.
I say all this because I've just heard there are a couple hundred tickets left unsold. So there's a chance for non-Members to get in to this; possibly the best wine fair on the planet and one of London’s best kept secrets.
Try lotsa wines … but, please, don't overdo it! Keep our Club code. There are spittoons. And after all these years, people realise they are a very good idea if you want to try everything … i.e. hundreds of wines. The growers come at their expense - and they are mostly not wealthy people - because they like the people they meet; people who want to know more … and don’t get blootered like they do at Paris shows.
You'll be very welcome. Find all the information you need – including how to buy your tickets, pricing, times and directions – at sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk.
See you there.
Thursday, 24 March 2011
Board Meeting Day
Once more the old brain has to try to ramp itself up to the level of all the brainboxes sitting around our table. Every time it gets harder. Andrew now kindly turns all his numbers into colourful little graphs, which I really appreciate … but I'll never get the hang of EBITDA and all the others. Greek to me. I just know if graphs go up it’s usually good.
Anyway here's a good shot of me with Super Simon, Global CEO, and his new Wall. I bought it him for Christmas along with some red crayons. Fits his new office.
I'll be staring at the thing as you read this because we are to meet in his office. Can't write more - haven't finished homework.
I'll be staring at the thing as you read this because we are to meet in his office. Can't write more - haven't finished homework.
Wednesday, 23 March 2011
Binfield Tasting, March 22nd
Great little tasting last night where we matched four Bordeaux wines - all from our Chai against four similar wines from the Rest of the World. Anne Linder represented Le Chai (which she originally brought into being for us). I represented TROTW. Rather a one sided match, you'd think. Me too. I was confident of an easy win. However, in the event, after the attendees had voted, I only avoided a draw by two votes on the final wine.
Anne and I each made the case for our wines, whilst customers sipped. We then got everyone to vote on the count of three to minimise peer-influence. (Everyone, research now shows, possesses a different set of taste receptors. The days when people felt they SHOULD like a wine because their wine buff mate liked it are now over.)
Chilean Sauvignon 2010 won by a small margin over Laithwaites Sauvignon 2010.
Le Chai's Medoc 2009 won over Don Cayetano's Chilean Merlot
Hickinbotham's Clarendon Syrah won over Jean Marc's 'Part du Boucher'.
And Le Grand Chai Sauternes 2006 was just pipped by Bill Calabria's West End Botrytis Semillon 2006 … by one vote.
Good fun, lively audience. Bracknell's Mayor in full regalia and local Press reporting the result.
Thanks to Michael McAuley and his team. A great evening.
Tuesday, 22 March 2011
Diary. New Aquitaine House.
Back to the real world … quite hard to come down from the real high of the Andes. Yesterday a day off to recover - except for posing yet again. Photos for an American Magazine. Trying to look natural posing with a bottle and full glass of wine up an alley by the office … Is this really a good image?
Today, meetings and doing a Bordeaux vs Rest of World tasting at Binfield/Bracknell shop tonight. I'm Rest of World and Anne Linder is Bordeaux. I should trounce her.
Will let you know.
When I haven't got much exciting happening I will insert more of those 'How Laithwaites Happened' reminiscences. These are proving quite popular with Laithwaites people – seems they always wondered where it all came from.
Today, meetings and doing a Bordeaux vs Rest of World tasting at Binfield/Bracknell shop tonight. I'm Rest of World and Anne Linder is Bordeaux. I should trounce her.
Will let you know.
When I haven't got much exciting happening I will insert more of those 'How Laithwaites Happened' reminiscences. These are proving quite popular with Laithwaites people – seems they always wondered where it all came from.
Monday, 21 March 2011
Flying Home
A day off in Santiago - met two more of Tom's school friends. Both in wine and loving Chilean life (we already met another in Mendoza). Am now on board for home.
Blown away by the progress here since early visits ... Santiago is unrecognisable. A very classy, clever and brave new country ... the new wines - like the new, vertiginous vineyards - are really reaching for the skies.
Even more impressed by Argentina last week. Twenty years ago; world's fifth largest wine producer but nowhere in the quality race. Today; the wine the whole world wants more than any other? Argentine Malbec!
And Yves just sent me his shot of me and beautiful Alta ... Dear Alta, I shall miss you!
Back to Britain.
Blown away by the progress here since early visits ... Santiago is unrecognisable. A very classy, clever and brave new country ... the new wines - like the new, vertiginous vineyards - are really reaching for the skies.
Even more impressed by Argentina last week. Twenty years ago; world's fifth largest wine producer but nowhere in the quality race. Today; the wine the whole world wants more than any other? Argentine Malbec!
Back to Britain.
Thursday, 17 March 2011
Diary. Mendoza.
Out to Hervé and Diane Fabre's vineyard in the hills. Looks classic Bordeaux (not surprising; that's where they came from) very neat vine rows with roses at the end.
One small but critical difference; the irrigation channels cut in the earth. No irrigation - no vineyard. In fact, no Mendoza at all. This is a high altitude desert. Only the four rivers that flow down from the Andes here, allow Mendoza to exist.
Hervé was the first outsider to spot the potential for quality in the mass of very ordinary wines that were all Argentina made for its thirsty home market. It did not export.
He, being Bordelais, recognised the Malbec and thought he could do great things, so bought an old vineyard. They said he was mad. (Normal; only mad people do great things in wine). Right now he seems to win all the awards. It’s nice to chat in French.
Diane has set up a chef friend to cook a typical Asado - barbecue - for Kit and Co to film. They give me an apron and a knife. I immediately cut my finger so that's that idea ruined.
Immaculate barrel hall - Grand Cru style - immaculate tasting.
As we eat our final meat feast (don't want to see another thick, juicy steak for a least a month, I just crave beans on toast) we are serenaded Argentine style. Songs of the grape harvesters.
The evening event - the final event; José Alberto Zuccardi - the most dynamic and innovative wine producer of all in Mendoza - and maybe anywhere - drives us out to his winery talking passionately all the way. His car must have autopilot.
He and Sebastien, his eldest, run an immaculate operation that is working round the clock bringing in harvest. They have four separate cellars here: roughly Good, Better, Best and Wildly Experimental. I really liked the last one. We have to send JMS and Henry here; so many clever ideas!
They have 37 new grape varieties planted here, being micro-vinified and assessed. They are not betting their future on Malbec alone. They also have a cracking restaurant (makes them the most-visited winery of all). Again, super-creative chefs finding out what they can do with plants from the desert and mountains. Very 'Eco'.
And so considerate not to give us more steak!
We are joined for dinner by our Patagonian winemakers; Schroeder (a 600k drive) and a few others. Our Thomas has A LOT of friends here! And with them has made Argentina a huge success for us.
Merry, noisy evening. Our last here, sadly.
Now it’s the airport and back to Santiago, (then us to London, Tom to Sydney). We'd rather drive but time has run out for us.
It’s just Kit and Co taking their minibus over and doing some more filming. Doyle, Gareth and Kit have been very good. So young, but so professional. Always telling me I am performing well. Proof of that is in the films. Judge for yourself here.
The Amazing Anne was last to leave the party – she was showing no signs of flagging as we left. At one a.m. But I know she left our hotel at 4 a.m. And is now in Buenos Aires.
The Laithwaites couldn't do any of these trips without Anne; plans them, sets up everything with the producers, does PR, solves crises, points the film crew at the right things, and is my memory - my portable hard-drive. Onetime Head Buyer, Anne is now the guardian of our long Company Story … which is important to us.
But it always worries me she never sleeps.
Goodbye and thanks Argentina, I'll be back asap. Meantime I'll drink a lot more of your lovely wines.
Diary. Trapiche Cellars. Mendoza.
Today it’s the Trapiche Cellars with Daniel Pi. Chief Winemaker. Wise man, great teacher who filled in a lot of gaps for me.
It was Italians - with some Spanish - who created the Argentine wine industry in the mid-18th century. The British-built railway from Mendoza (the vineyards) to Buenos Aires (the customers) was also vital. Previously, going by ox cart took so many weeks the drivers, they say, drank most of the wine on the way.
So, originally, it was all Sangiovese and Trebbiano. And Tempranillo and Garnacha.
The founders of Trapiche winery then brought in what was always known as 'The French Grape'; the most famous French grape at that time; Malbec.
Malbec - or 'Cot' or 'Pressac' - was huge not only in Cahors (the 'Black Wine'!) but also in Bordeaux. But that was before phylloxera struck.
Phylloxera is a nasty little creature that attacks the roots of European vine stock. Devastated thousands of acres of vineyard in the late 19th century. Most effective treatment? Grafting vines onto American root stocks.
The Bordelais found Malbec did not take well to being grafted and switched emphasis to Merlot. But the Malbec vines taken to Argentina did better (there was no phylloxera).
The Argentines focussed on their huge home market. They were the fifth largest wine producer in the world - and drank it all themselves. Consumption was 90 litres per head per annum. You wouldn't have liked it much. I didn't, in the 70's.
Things were interrupted by events in the 80's.
We started to buy in the 90's when the wine industry here decided they had to change and export wine … which had to be better.
It is to our Senior Buyer Thomas Woolrych that we owe our recent success with Argentina. He loves the place and has been digging around everywhere from Patagonia in the south up to the north where they have the really high vineyards at 8000 feet (even higher than Aldo's Chilean). That is a spread of … dunno … thousands of miles. Thomas says a 12 hour bus trip through the tractless desert of western Argentina is an experience I really ought to try. I might just pass on that one, Thomas.
Malbec is a star here. And it has fanatical followers. 'Malbec World Day' is April 17th. You should know that. You can only drink Malbec on that day. Order some now!
I don't think there's a World Merlot Day or a Tempranillo Week. But I could be wrong. Malbec 'the French Grape' is back! Thanks to Argentina.
The Trapiche cellars are a winemaker’s dream. I am very jealous. The old Florentine-style brick winery from 1922 has been beautifully restored with modern creative bits blended in: like a glass pyramid in the yard with tasting room below. Mini Louvre! They've kept the old machinery and old railway for display, created a wine bar and great dining hall for visitors.
Great day finished with a stunning dinner with Daniel and Co showing of wave after wave of brilliant reds; Malbecs, Syrahs and Cabernets. This team are going to be hard to beat.
It was Italians - with some Spanish - who created the Argentine wine industry in the mid-18th century. The British-built railway from Mendoza (the vineyards) to Buenos Aires (the customers) was also vital. Previously, going by ox cart took so many weeks the drivers, they say, drank most of the wine on the way.
So, originally, it was all Sangiovese and Trebbiano. And Tempranillo and Garnacha.
The founders of Trapiche winery then brought in what was always known as 'The French Grape'; the most famous French grape at that time; Malbec.
Malbec - or 'Cot' or 'Pressac' - was huge not only in Cahors (the 'Black Wine'!) but also in Bordeaux. But that was before phylloxera struck.
Phylloxera is a nasty little creature that attacks the roots of European vine stock. Devastated thousands of acres of vineyard in the late 19th century. Most effective treatment? Grafting vines onto American root stocks.
The Bordelais found Malbec did not take well to being grafted and switched emphasis to Merlot. But the Malbec vines taken to Argentina did better (there was no phylloxera).
The Argentines focussed on their huge home market. They were the fifth largest wine producer in the world - and drank it all themselves. Consumption was 90 litres per head per annum. You wouldn't have liked it much. I didn't, in the 70's.
Things were interrupted by events in the 80's.
We started to buy in the 90's when the wine industry here decided they had to change and export wine … which had to be better.
It is to our Senior Buyer Thomas Woolrych that we owe our recent success with Argentina. He loves the place and has been digging around everywhere from Patagonia in the south up to the north where they have the really high vineyards at 8000 feet (even higher than Aldo's Chilean). That is a spread of … dunno … thousands of miles. Thomas says a 12 hour bus trip through the tractless desert of western Argentina is an experience I really ought to try. I might just pass on that one, Thomas.
Malbec is a star here. And it has fanatical followers. 'Malbec World Day' is April 17th. You should know that. You can only drink Malbec on that day. Order some now!
I don't think there's a World Merlot Day or a Tempranillo Week. But I could be wrong. Malbec 'the French Grape' is back! Thanks to Argentina.
Great day finished with a stunning dinner with Daniel and Co showing of wave after wave of brilliant reds; Malbecs, Syrahs and Cabernets. This team are going to be hard to beat.
Wednesday, 16 March 2011
Tasting at Trapiche
Mr Pi starts the tasting in Trapiche's 'mini-Louvre pyramid' below-ground cellar.
Tuesday, 15 March 2011
Mendoza
The journey from the frontier post to Mendoza wasn't two hours but five. And mostly barren desert. You only get green things here where there's a river from the Andes. Mendoza has a big river. It was a bit of a rough place but in the last decade has become a very pleasant town to visit, with several nice hotels and loads of restaurants and bars. The streets are all tree-lined and shaded. Water channels and fountains. Cool place, in both senses.
So now, loads of wine enthusiasts come here for wine visits. March/April, best. (Then they might hop to Santiago - a 40 min, rather spectacular flight - and do the same there). Amazing Wines, Amazing Beef, Amazing Mountains, plus lovely, friendly people. What's not to like here?
We staggered around 9pm into our rather smart, new hotel lobby like prospectors from the desert. Us and luggage covered in dust. Reception looking concerned.
Tasted the 'terroir'? Man, we'd eaten it.
View from hotel room to west. Andes v misty today. Rain forecast.
This morning memorable sight of wife taking the luggage into her shower! (They all cleaned up well). After, we walked to the food market and sat by the fountains in the park. Bit of a rest.
Then we bowled out of Mendoza on an impressive highway. Which suddenly stopped. Suddenly we were on very rutted earth amongst shanty-ish houses. Thought we'd been kidnapped. But this is just Argentina ... doesn't always quite join up. But who cares? It's very exciting. And colourful. And on a roll.
Then, there was a big black steel gate slid open and we are out of the hubbub and ruts - which turn out to be roadworks (it's election year so governments always start building lots of roads) and into a peaceful garden and foodie place. And in for a good working lunch with several wine producers.
Getting the Big Reception here because we are a bit of a star turn. Oh Yes! Argentina finds the UK a tough market. (Whereas USA is nuts for it.) But Laithwaites customers lap up Malbec etc from here faster than we can ship it. (True, shipping can be a nightmare from here.) We did over 20% of all UK Argie imports last year and three of our Top Twenty are from here. So it's red carpet time.
To Alma Andina cellars, run by an Aussie; Steve McEwen ... (big, bearded Flying Winemaker who got married and decided to stay put ... as you do) ... with his big mate; the ubiquitous Opi Sadler consulting. Amazing four-level-deep old cellars from 1883 ... kept immaculate, the Aussie way.
Lots of photos with Yves going flat out to record everything he can. Sadly has to fly home tomorrow for another job.
We all go round to a well known wine restaurant 'Asafran' for a final meal altogether - all ten of us. Got the big round table in the wine cellar - a bit too cool for humans - but they give you ponchos to wear ... and the choice of Argentine wine is enormous and temptingly all around you!
I have never travelled with such a huge team before. And it worried me for several reasons. Like our winemakers are very generous and invite us to stay and put on wonderful meals ... "and can my nine friends come too?" Sounds pushy.
But it's been great. We have captured so many images ... We can, I hope, now make Chile and Argentina come really alive for customers. And the winemakers all like this.
And we ain't finished yet. Kit and Gang are staying till next week doing both film and stills, now. Barbara and I are here till Saturday. The sun still shines. And there's another ten winemakers waiting.
Yes, I know, you can't call this a proper job, can you?
Diary. Argentina.
But they give you a great view of Opi Sadler's Malbec vines, as shown by his chief viticulturalist Marcelo Belmonte.
Monday, 14 March 2011
Over The Black Water Pass
6 am. Or possibly 7am ... Leaving Huanta (near Aldo's farm) behind. Last village in Chile. It's only just light and the man is still guarding his vineyard ... ripe table grapes are worth a fortune.
Into the gates of hell! Well, it looks a bit Lord of the Rings. We enter a long, long canyon in the bare rock. Very few trees. Customs post ... passes the time! Faffing about. 8.30. Through.
See guanaco across the river ... something smaller, faster? Fox? Glaciers around us. We leave Yves trying to shoot a bottle of Giorgio's new white with a backdrop of glaciers ... And hurtle up the track that says 'Strictly No access at any time' ... Giorgio; the Italian ... the fast route to the top ... always!!!
At summit 16000 feet. Paso de Agua Negra. V. Strong Wind and groggy, sick film crew. Barbara also poorly. Me and Giorgio fine so ... The windy tasting. Is this a height record for tasting one year old Syrahs? Must ask Robert Joseph.
Change cars at the little glacier. G goes back home ... we start Scary Descent. We hope we can trust our driver. She veers near the edge, getting out her sweeties ... it's a steep gravel track, no barriers at all ... and a very, very long drop. Shut eyes time. Argentina side not so pretty ... roadworks!
Long, long way, then ... a mine! And the Frontier post ... ... still waiting. 5 pm. We have over 2 hours to Mendoza, capital of Argentine wine.
View the video diaries so far at
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=EDBDA1E4A06DE034
Over to Argentina
It's seven in the morning. Or possibly six. Chile is divided about when the clocks go back. Anyway our party has all met up and we are heading up the Elqui Valley in three cars! Film crew. Photographers. Giorgio's crowd and the Laithwaites.
The sky ahead is now lightening. We'll soon be passing Aldo's highest vineyards at 6000 feet. We are then going on to the Agua Negra pass, which is 50,000 feet. We hope to have a celebratory wine tasting there before Giogio returns to Elqui and we go on. Out of phone range any minute.
The sky ahead is now lightening. We'll soon be passing Aldo's highest vineyards at 6000 feet. We are then going on to the Agua Negra pass, which is 50,000 feet. We hope to have a celebratory wine tasting there before Giogio returns to Elqui and we go on. Out of phone range any minute.
Sunday, 13 March 2011
Alta Tierra vineyards
Here we are, 6000 feet up, in the highest vineyard I ever saw and I'm taking a Guanaco girl called 'Alta' for a walk. Such beautiful big eyes. Just wish she wouldn't spit at me so.
Jean Marc just emailed asked how we were enjoying his 'favourite vineyard in the world'. He, I and Anne Linder share a passion for the Alta Tierra vineyards that many find hard to understand.
I must try and explain.
It's a combination of the people, the place, the climate and the grapes. But then it always is. However here we are talking of extremes; Extreme Winemaking!
It was twenty years ago that Anne brought me the very first samples from here and I can still remember where I was then and the exact moment of their huge impact on my tongue. Flavours stronger and brighter than anything I'd ever known. And they came from a region that is virtually in the Atacama desert; the driest place on earth.
Puzzling, but we immediately joined this new adventure and became their first customers. We won them their first (of many) gold medals the certificate has pride of place here in their winery... says 'Tierra Alta Syrah 2002 from Direct Wines'!
The wines from here astonish. And they turn your beliefs about wine geography literally upside down. Previously we thought we had to go further south in Chile to get the cooler conditions for fruitier wines.
Turns out wrong. On the fringes of the desert here its actually cooler due to the cold winds from the cold sea and the Andes. And also the very clear high mountain air which causes temperatures to plummet the minute the sun goes down. (And is why there are so many Space Observatories here). Cold, clear nights are good for fruit. So is bright sun. And here the UV is three times stronger than in Australia.
They grow some of the world's best table grapes up here. Growing conditions are so incredible here they can start to harvest these at the end of November (which equates to May in N. Hemisphere!).
Wine grapes take longer; they are starting now.
Alta Tierra started with Giorgio Flessati. We had bought wine from the co-operative winery he ran up the Trento Valley north of Verona. His wines were nice but it was him we really liked; combination of sunny disposition, big brain and vast enthusiasms. So restless, the Trentino vineyards were just not enough, and he got interested in what his cousin Aldo was doing in northern Chile; growing grapes. Table grapes.
Together they set up a company called Falernia to see if wine could be made here... and we sent Jean-Marc there to work with his old friend and make a special range for us; the 'Alta Tierra'.
Giorgio says JMS has the key to the cellar and our master blender can do whatever he wants. So JMS loves this place. So do I. And now so do Barbara and our son Tom - who has come from Australia for a look see.
A guanaco is like a very pretty little llama. They had three here at Aldo's remote farm. But the Puma got two. It is very wild indeed up here.
Aldo came to Chile as a boy when his parents arrived with twenty families from the same village up in the Dolomites. Most didn't manage to stick it out and returned. But Aldo prospered, growing fruit in the arid soil irrigated by water from channels dug by the Inca.
He is a quiet, shy, smallish chap who you would not think had any genetic link to his big, strapping cousin Giorgio. At the airport Barbara took him for the driver as he grabbed her case. Fact is he is the most successful farmer in the valley with big acreages of vines for wine, table and brandy production.
But with Olga his wife they live in the same simple way they always have, surrounded by a large extended family of over 200! They make you feel so very welcome. They are just lovely. I don't suppose we'll ever be able to return the hospitality as Aldo doesn't like to travel. He just like being in his vineyards, in the eternal sunshine and always being home for Olga's lunch on the cool terrace looking at the great pink mountains.
It's the tireless Giorgio who travels the globe beating the drum for the wine of the Elqui Valley. Other wineries - who at first mocked - now buy grapes here. But Giorgio and Aldo's is still the only winery in the area. Tomorrow - the big tasting ...
Friday, 11 March 2011
Arica, Iquique, Antofagasta ...
... Chilean towns, counting down the coast from the Peruvian border ... stuck in my head for 50 years because that's where I always started revision and for some reason we were always studying South America. Not much of anything else stuck in my head, (ultra short attention span) but those three names did.
I'm now looking at their names on our departure gate at Santiago's
rebuilt airport - the old one copped it in the earthquake (they still
operated - out of tents; resourceful Chileans).
La Serena is further south, just below the Atacama desert and where
we'll get off the plane to go up the Elqui Valley.
Giorgio meets us at the little airport. Attentive readers might remember we last met Giorgio in Sicily. But here in remote northern Chile is where he spends 80% of his time.
For the last 12 years he and his cousin Aldo have built a splendid wine
estate where you'd think only cactus would grow.
We were total supporters from the start. And over a welcoming lunch in a beach restaurant in La Serena, Giorgio makes a kind speech about how we were their first customers and he'll never forget that.
It was Anne Linder who did that for us. Our Head Buyer. It's really nice
she is with us today showing off her 'baby'. We go up to Falernia's
first vineyard. They are picking Sauvignon Blanc, the pickers
covered head to foot against the sun and wind.
Vines and people very hardy here. The tractor driver is 84. Says he'd rather be on his tractor than home with the wife.
The vines are irrigated of course - it doesn't rain here during the
summer. The main water channels were put in by the Inca hundreds of
years ago.
The Spanish arrived here in 1545 and that was the end of all that. But the channels are proving very useful nowadays. Thankfully the daily wind from the cold Humbolt sea has sprung up.
The indomitable Yves is out in the sun composing his pictures. He wants
to capture the rows of green vines running off into the wild and
completely barren hills we see before us.
As we climb the valley it gets narrower, the mountains get steeper and
more arid. I have always thought they resemble the mountains of the
moon.
The Upper Elqui Valley by the time we get to our destination;
Pisco Elqui, is a narrow cleft and the sun is shut out below though the
mountain tops glow red.
Pisco Elqui. The green line of trees above the village is the water channel dug by Inca. Still working.
Yesterday we had lunch in a beachfront bar at La Serena, northern Chile.
They must be very worried there today as a tsunami is due to arrive from Japan tonight.
We are high upon the mountains this morning, but I'm thinking our host Aldo must be worried about his 90-year-old mother who leaves near the sea.
Yesterday's diary about our arrival here at Falernia, as many will know, one of my all time favourite wine producers, is stuck on my Blackberry which seems to have stopped communicating. Maybe due to being in a very remote spot.
But the I-pad is still going. We will be here for a couple of days and will then try and get over a high mountain track into Argentina.
I hope you will be able to follow our progress.
We are high upon the mountains this morning, but I'm thinking our host Aldo must be worried about his 90-year-old mother who leaves near the sea.
Yesterday's diary about our arrival here at Falernia, as many will know, one of my all time favourite wine producers, is stuck on my Blackberry which seems to have stopped communicating. Maybe due to being in a very remote spot.
But the I-pad is still going. We will be here for a couple of days and will then try and get over a high mountain track into Argentina.
I hope you will be able to follow our progress.
Thursday, 10 March 2011
We had special evening in the Tarapacà estate garden ...
Cools fast at night up here ... to just right for dining outside. They took down the lamb carcasses which had been stretched out on iron frames high above a big fire since midday. It’s a Patagonian thing apparently. Just lovely with their Cabernet Sauvignon; a rich, voluptuous, dark beauty.
Slept blissfully, woke in dark ... takes time for it to get light in Chile; the Andes are in the way. In the cool morning we had a look round their poor battered cellars. Builders crawling all over... as the grapes arrive.
Can you imagine coming here after the earthquake? Half your stock of old bottles smashed, barrels crushed, steel tanks ripped open. Only the concrete tanks survived. But no-one died.
Then Felipé comes to collect us. Luis Felipé Edwardes, that is, tall slim and charm itself.
We are going to a working lunch with him and his father - also Luis Felipé Edwardes, the founder, - the one we call Don Cayetano - his baptismal name - who now lives on a golf course in the hills above Santiago. His house on their estate fell down in the earthquake.
Chile is a paradise - apart from being on a fault line. Gorgeous apartment exquisitely furnished and immaculately run by Bernada Edwardes. I always get wound up in such houses. Feel all clumpy; knock over something priceless.
The new Don Cayetano Chardonnay with a perfect sea bass - corvina - it being a holy day, so no meat - fine by us after after last night's carnivorous cornucopia.
Try their new 'DC 900' from new and extremely high (900 metres) vineyards. Easy to taste the extra 'fruit' you get from those cold, suffering vines.
Afternoon getting scorchio; the sun burnt away the cloud as Cristobal comes to take us in his pick-up to Villa Real where we are to meet one of our early Flying Winemakers.
I haven't seen Andreas for ages, which is shame because he's a lovely man. Quiet and shy but now with a very big job in charge of the winemaking for a group of four wineries. Brian Croser is now their consultant. Which completes a neat circle.
When in '91 we took our great plunge into Chile and sent Brian Croser's right-hand man at Petaluma; Martin Shaw (Shaw+ Smith) to make a whole range of wines for us at a winery called Canepa, Andreas worked alongside him. Did so well Martin invited him back to Bordeaux to work a vintage or two for us.
The family behind Canepa sadly fell out with each other and the Company disappeared. But Andreas has gone on to great things. He makes our new wine 'Patriots' Merlot. Plus a lot of other delights. So, good tasting. We make a date to meet at Le Chai in June.
Great place; Villa Real, across the park from the winery. A grand old hacienda of huge rooms, great high windows and vast long corridors and terraces, that's a hotel except they don't advertise. But if you fancy living like the Marques de Villa Real, a Chilean grandee of the old Spanish days, drop me a line ... any friend of mine is welcome, they said.
Wednesday, 9 March 2011
Diary. South America.
São Paulo is in full carnival as we pass through ... Endless TV programmes where panels of experts endlessly dissect the merits and demerits of each float like Sky Sports post football match.
Fly over the multiple, massive milk-chocolate braids of the Paraguay River and on over the vastness of northern Argentina ... to the Andes.
They are massive. Shiny white at the top and grungy, brown-ochre rust – no living plants, no green. Jagged, razor-like edges.
Flying 20000 feet between big peaks that look higher! Then down into the steep little valley where Santiago sits.
It’s got a lot bigger, and smarter and newer.
Go down to the Isla de Maipo (an "island" between two arms of the very winding river Maipo) where vineyards have grown enormously in extent. Semi-wild horses still wander in the shallows.
Tarapacá Estate (Chileans emphasise the last 'a') which was a collection of sheds first time we bought has done very well indeed. Now the vineyards run to the horizon and up the steep hills.
And the Estate House is splendid in pink and white with gardens and pools. Many wine people come here. Everyone should. Difficult to imagine nicer. Lots of tour groups come. Several today.
Sitting soaking the sun and views with Claudio - who we've known since about 1992 - he used to work for Hector Rossi, the man who taught me Chilean wine.
We bump into a couple of Laithwaites customers ... from Nottingham, on a tour. I think Dr Rao and his friend are pleased to see their wine merchant does actually go do what he says he does. They want my job!
With our hosts we taste, we chat. Momentous times. They are short of wine. Last year they lost thousands and thousands of litres here in the earthquake. The road to Tarapacá ran red for hours! Are still rebuilding the winery. Only just got the insurance.
Because the light is perfect Yves wants to take lots of shots. He wants me on a horse, but I refuse. Barbara jumps at the opportunity and hurtles off with the Huasos (like Gauchos) and Christian the winemaker.
After clambering painfully on foot (have got this fasciitis thing - a sore heel) up some seriously steep vineyards I reckon I will, after all, try a horse. I do and it’s very nice to me. A kind horse. Thank you, horse.
Monday, 7 March 2011
Diary. Chile.
So why am I on this plane headed to Santiago, Chile? I've always felt the need to ask myself that. It’s the price of the tickets! Always was an expensive trip.
I know Chile is nearer than Australia. But it doesn't seem it.
Encouraged by Hugh Johnson who as a very early Chile enthusiast (shipped an entire barrel of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon to his home back in the '70's - seriously enthusiastic or what?) I first went over in '85, I think.
I found this enterprising Basque chap (name of Eyzaguirre or something like that) had set up the first real wine estate; everything else was either Big Companies or smallholdings. He called it 'The Basques' - 'Los Vascos'. Rich, thick, dark Cabernet, it was an amazing deal. We sold tons. Such an obvious winner, the Estate was soon snapped up by the Lafite Rothschilds and is today still the outstanding player in Chile.
In the late eighties, having failed to find any white wines worth buying, but believing there was much more to Chile than Cabernet Sauvignon, we signed a serious winemaking contract with a Company called Canepa (necessitating a flight there and back in 48 hours!!!) We sent the famous Martin Shaw (of Shaw + Smith fame) to do a vintage. Stunning result. He made 12 wines: Cabs, Merlot, Pinot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon etc etc. All bright, clean, fresh modern styles never ever seen before and bargain prices. Sold a ship-load, we did.
For a year or two we were 70% of Chilean exports. That justified two trips.
And it’s gone on in similar vein ever since. Our buyer Becca improves and expands the range every visit.
Chile is very, very important for us. So this trip is well overdue. I've a lot of people to thank.
I know Chile is nearer than Australia. But it doesn't seem it.
Encouraged by Hugh Johnson who as a very early Chile enthusiast (shipped an entire barrel of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon to his home back in the '70's - seriously enthusiastic or what?) I first went over in '85, I think.
I found this enterprising Basque chap (name of Eyzaguirre or something like that) had set up the first real wine estate; everything else was either Big Companies or smallholdings. He called it 'The Basques' - 'Los Vascos'. Rich, thick, dark Cabernet, it was an amazing deal. We sold tons. Such an obvious winner, the Estate was soon snapped up by the Lafite Rothschilds and is today still the outstanding player in Chile.
In the late eighties, having failed to find any white wines worth buying, but believing there was much more to Chile than Cabernet Sauvignon, we signed a serious winemaking contract with a Company called Canepa (necessitating a flight there and back in 48 hours!!!) We sent the famous Martin Shaw (of Shaw + Smith fame) to do a vintage. Stunning result. He made 12 wines: Cabs, Merlot, Pinot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon etc etc. All bright, clean, fresh modern styles never ever seen before and bargain prices. Sold a ship-load, we did.
For a year or two we were 70% of Chilean exports. That justified two trips.
And it’s gone on in similar vein ever since. Our buyer Becca improves and expands the range every visit.
Chile is very, very important for us. So this trip is well overdue. I've a lot of people to thank.
Friday, 4 March 2011
Got my jabs for South America yesterday ...
A bit late but finally got the Puisseguin doctor to do the deed. In France, you buy the stuff from the chemist then find a Doc to stick in the needle.
Of course he said not to drink and eat too much last night. As if I ever would. The whole point of this trip was to attend the opening of our new wine bar at St Genes.
Diligent readers will remember that, terrified by the thought of losing our local village shop, the Laithwaites bought the place and handed the business over to a local mum we thought might run it well.
Last night everyone was telling me we'd really hit the jackpot with Anne-Marie and asking me how we knew she was so clever.
You get lucky is how.
She revived the shop and added a restaurant cum wine warehouse which is always full and is the only place anyone's ever been able to see the glorious panoply of Castillon wines laid out on display...whilst having lunch.
We begged her to keep the old bar between shop and restaurant ...with its pool and 'babyfoot' tables and the colourful local 'characters'.
Alas, that didn't work; it was only our family and our winemakers who ever played the tables and the local characters got frightened away by the new, clean efficiency of the place.
So Anne-Marie changed it all and has just re-opened it as her cool new wine bar. Purple and Orange!!!
In there, as well as her 100 Castillons, she offers a small range from around the world ... Laithwaites wines. We shall see how well that goes down.
The producers of St Emilions etc who come here are already not happy she will only sell Castillons. They see Chilean, Aussie etc wines on sale... they are going to choke on their Confit de Canard.
Anyway, two days after opening most table were occupied at lunch and at the Grand Opening the change seemed to go down well. Members of the local 'star' winemakers; the Thunevins, the Derencourts, the De Nieppergs rubbed shoulders with your more trad local farmers and tasted each others’ wines.
This, I feel, must help raise standards. Regular 'meet the winemakers' events here would be great I thought. I was looked after by Clare, Libby, Mark and the rest of my crowd. So I didn't get to overdo things.
Glad of that as this freezing dark morning head for the airport, home, briefly, then off to Santiago!
Of course he said not to drink and eat too much last night. As if I ever would. The whole point of this trip was to attend the opening of our new wine bar at St Genes.
Diligent readers will remember that, terrified by the thought of losing our local village shop, the Laithwaites bought the place and handed the business over to a local mum we thought might run it well.
Last night everyone was telling me we'd really hit the jackpot with Anne-Marie and asking me how we knew she was so clever.
You get lucky is how.
She revived the shop and added a restaurant cum wine warehouse which is always full and is the only place anyone's ever been able to see the glorious panoply of Castillon wines laid out on display...whilst having lunch.
We begged her to keep the old bar between shop and restaurant ...with its pool and 'babyfoot' tables and the colourful local 'characters'.
Alas, that didn't work; it was only our family and our winemakers who ever played the tables and the local characters got frightened away by the new, clean efficiency of the place.
So Anne-Marie changed it all and has just re-opened it as her cool new wine bar. Purple and Orange!!!
In there, as well as her 100 Castillons, she offers a small range from around the world ... Laithwaites wines. We shall see how well that goes down.
The producers of St Emilions etc who come here are already not happy she will only sell Castillons. They see Chilean, Aussie etc wines on sale... they are going to choke on their Confit de Canard.
Anyway, two days after opening most table were occupied at lunch and at the Grand Opening the change seemed to go down well. Members of the local 'star' winemakers; the Thunevins, the Derencourts, the De Nieppergs rubbed shoulders with your more trad local farmers and tasted each others’ wines.
This, I feel, must help raise standards. Regular 'meet the winemakers' events here would be great I thought. I was looked after by Clare, Libby, Mark and the rest of my crowd. So I didn't get to overdo things.
Glad of that as this freezing dark morning head for the airport, home, briefly, then off to Santiago!
Thursday, 3 March 2011
Diary. London Paris Ste Colombe.
What they call the GMM - and I call Simon's Show - was the-six monthly get-together of our busy wine sellers from around the world. Yesterday and this morning. London.
Forty or so. Majority girls, I think. They all stand up and tell of their successes and some failures. We all learn. Cross-fertilisation! Quite competitive. The Americans are winning at the moment and like to mention this frequently to the Brits, Aussies, Germans, Swiss, Poles and Hongkongers.
But I thought the most passionate talk with the most brilliant ideas was Peter from Poland ... the new kid on the block. Peter gets SO excited, but can't quite find the words (English is his fifth language). You fear the big man will just burst with frustrated passion ... for wine. We all hold our breath as he windmills his arms, goes red, until the missing word EXPLODES out. (Peter, I discover, actually has a small Polish vineyard. I didn't know there were any. He says 500!!)
We all agree we are so lucky to be in such an agreeable business as wine. But we also agree it’s a tough old time. We all know that work harder/better is the only way.
We saw the prototype new Wine Plan... To be called 'Laithwaites Recommends' due to start - gently - next month. This clever bit of kit was initially dreamt up by Mark who older customers may remember ran Theale Shop until Eddie took over. Quiet Mark turned out to be a bit of a computer whizz. He did not think customers on wine plans should have to be held so rigidly to the wines we pick for them every quarter. He thought they should be as free to choose as any of our shop customers - whilst (IMPORTANT) still benefiting from our good professional guidance. Wine is, after all, a minefield is it not?
Anyway when Simon arrived he leapt at this idea and techies were drafted in to make it work. Currently there are 15 of them at it day and night.
This is a Big Thing for us.
This will be us now just SUGGESTING a 'perfect-for-you' case of wines to Wine Plan customers every 2/3 months. But customers then being able to have fun changing it all.
Customers can already do a certain amount of this online. And many do. But the choice is restricted. In future the choice will be HUGE. And there's much more. But I don't want to steal their thunder. Suffice it to say that the days of our Wine Plans being rather 'Laithwaites Insists' are almost over. It will soon be the much more reasonable 'Laithwaites Recommends'.
I think it will be the perfect way Everyone to buy the RIght Wine For Them. A good wine merchant must be someone you trust to really HELP you. There is really no point to us if we don't do that.
Anyway I scuttle away early because my brain hurts and catch the old Eurostar.
I don't for some reason read the train magazine. When I arrive in Paris I get an email from the gorgeous Clemence, our PR, to say there's a feature on me in that magazine. Damn. Could've preened all the way over. Assuming they've been nice that is.
Anyway, pausing only to have a cash machine eat my card the TGV is now approaching Libourne so should be 'home' in Ste Colombe by midnight.
Tomorrow is 'La Grande Ouverture' at Le Comptoir.
Liboune! Ici Libourne.
Forty or so. Majority girls, I think. They all stand up and tell of their successes and some failures. We all learn. Cross-fertilisation! Quite competitive. The Americans are winning at the moment and like to mention this frequently to the Brits, Aussies, Germans, Swiss, Poles and Hongkongers.
But I thought the most passionate talk with the most brilliant ideas was Peter from Poland ... the new kid on the block. Peter gets SO excited, but can't quite find the words (English is his fifth language). You fear the big man will just burst with frustrated passion ... for wine. We all hold our breath as he windmills his arms, goes red, until the missing word EXPLODES out. (Peter, I discover, actually has a small Polish vineyard. I didn't know there were any. He says 500!!)
We all agree we are so lucky to be in such an agreeable business as wine. But we also agree it’s a tough old time. We all know that work harder/better is the only way.
We saw the prototype new Wine Plan... To be called 'Laithwaites Recommends' due to start - gently - next month. This clever bit of kit was initially dreamt up by Mark who older customers may remember ran Theale Shop until Eddie took over. Quiet Mark turned out to be a bit of a computer whizz. He did not think customers on wine plans should have to be held so rigidly to the wines we pick for them every quarter. He thought they should be as free to choose as any of our shop customers - whilst (IMPORTANT) still benefiting from our good professional guidance. Wine is, after all, a minefield is it not?
Anyway when Simon arrived he leapt at this idea and techies were drafted in to make it work. Currently there are 15 of them at it day and night.
This is a Big Thing for us.
This will be us now just SUGGESTING a 'perfect-for-you' case of wines to Wine Plan customers every 2/3 months. But customers then being able to have fun changing it all.
Customers can already do a certain amount of this online. And many do. But the choice is restricted. In future the choice will be HUGE. And there's much more. But I don't want to steal their thunder. Suffice it to say that the days of our Wine Plans being rather 'Laithwaites Insists' are almost over. It will soon be the much more reasonable 'Laithwaites Recommends'.
I think it will be the perfect way Everyone to buy the RIght Wine For Them. A good wine merchant must be someone you trust to really HELP you. There is really no point to us if we don't do that.
Anyway I scuttle away early because my brain hurts and catch the old Eurostar.
I don't for some reason read the train magazine. When I arrive in Paris I get an email from the gorgeous Clemence, our PR, to say there's a feature on me in that magazine. Damn. Could've preened all the way over. Assuming they've been nice that is.
Anyway, pausing only to have a cash machine eat my card the TGV is now approaching Libourne so should be 'home' in Ste Colombe by midnight.
Tomorrow is 'La Grande Ouverture' at Le Comptoir.
Liboune! Ici Libourne.
Wednesday, 2 March 2011
How Laithwaites happened. Part eight
So way back in the 70's, guided by my H Johnson Atlas – the Germans call it Der Grosse Johnston! – I wine-trekked happily onwards.
The Rhone Valley was very welcoming; Monsieur had three good addresses there; people who belonged to his 'quality' group.
With my 'wine-next-door' orientation I passed on the good Dr Dufays of Domaine Nalys, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, preferring old Pierre Rivier who ran the co-op at Chusclan next door. For years he would tell people of the day he waved goodbye to a whole vanload of his Côtes-du-Rhône, unpaid-for, driven off by this scruffy, long-haired Brit who slept in his van. On top of the wine. He didn't really ever expect to be paid. But ... we have never stopped buying from Chusclan, ever since. It's now his grandson who runs the cellar.
East across the river at Sablet, the other great find, was the man I always considered my best friend in wine; André Roux. (Now finally retired despite all my threats and entreaties). I once wrote to customers that I'd buy wine from André even if I didn't like it. Not perhaps the best selling point ever. But true. Partly because he was so kind, modest, solicitous and gentle; not characteristics you associate with genius. He certainly was a bit of a genius, so how could I - a wine 'beginner' - ever refuse a wine he offered? I didn't, and they all sold so easily.
He, like Chusclan, and Jean Dubernet in the Midi made red wine by Maceration Carbonique or 'whole bunch' fermentation which kept more fruit flavours in the wines. Many experts dismissed them as unserious wines that didn't keep. Wrong! We did huge sales of these wines and I still enjoy 30 year old bottles from André.
I always chose wines with very obvious appeal. Subtlety? Not really 'me', I suppose. I was born in Bolton after all.
But that didn't mean wines without passion. No, quite the reverse. I tended always to go back to the cellars that gave me the most exciting visits and tastings. That's quite understandable isn't it?
I could go on. And on and on. And I do - as any customer knows.
But that's it for today ... because I'm at a conference and they like us to pay attention.
The Rhone Valley was very welcoming; Monsieur had three good addresses there; people who belonged to his 'quality' group.
With my 'wine-next-door' orientation I passed on the good Dr Dufays of Domaine Nalys, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, preferring old Pierre Rivier who ran the co-op at Chusclan next door. For years he would tell people of the day he waved goodbye to a whole vanload of his Côtes-du-Rhône, unpaid-for, driven off by this scruffy, long-haired Brit who slept in his van. On top of the wine. He didn't really ever expect to be paid. But ... we have never stopped buying from Chusclan, ever since. It's now his grandson who runs the cellar.
East across the river at Sablet, the other great find, was the man I always considered my best friend in wine; André Roux. (Now finally retired despite all my threats and entreaties). I once wrote to customers that I'd buy wine from André even if I didn't like it. Not perhaps the best selling point ever. But true. Partly because he was so kind, modest, solicitous and gentle; not characteristics you associate with genius. He certainly was a bit of a genius, so how could I - a wine 'beginner' - ever refuse a wine he offered? I didn't, and they all sold so easily.
He, like Chusclan, and Jean Dubernet in the Midi made red wine by Maceration Carbonique or 'whole bunch' fermentation which kept more fruit flavours in the wines. Many experts dismissed them as unserious wines that didn't keep. Wrong! We did huge sales of these wines and I still enjoy 30 year old bottles from André.
I always chose wines with very obvious appeal. Subtlety? Not really 'me', I suppose. I was born in Bolton after all.
But that didn't mean wines without passion. No, quite the reverse. I tended always to go back to the cellars that gave me the most exciting visits and tastings. That's quite understandable isn't it?
I could go on. And on and on. And I do - as any customer knows.
But that's it for today ... because I'm at a conference and they like us to pay attention.
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