Another good meeting about how we write to customers. The third such

Definitely agreed we should move from it just being me writing to having others, like the Buyers, writing also. I am knocking on a bit and recent surveys have produced some negative comments like "who is this old guy in the tweed jacket anyway - why should I listen to him?"

The young can be so cruel!

When I was a young wine merchant no-one took me seriously because I was young and most wine merchants had been born in 1667 or so.

I thought that when I got old that might improve.

Alas now we have the cult of youth. Can't win.

Anyway, in future customers will have a choice of voices in their Laithwaites Wine offerings. Mostly young.

Then, after work ..... Holiday Time! Whee! Head for Portsmouth. With my mate Dick in the Jag with the top down. Dick - and Pete with whom I was in Islay in June... - came down to holiday with me that first Bordeaux summer of '65. Ah... the wild nights, the girls!!!

So here we are, after careers, families and all that sensible stuff, living the way I always thought wine merchants should but never did; off to jolly old France in the open tourer. What Ho Jeeves, tootle pip!

Actually, John Avery's old dad did keep his Rolls in a garage in Le Touquet, I believe, but me I only ever had vans - and was always late and rushing too fast.

This time tho' we are taking two whole days to get to Bx.

The life, eh?

Manage to lose my ferry ticket but ... Writing this from boat of Brittany Ferries who have the sweetest, kindest most understanding girl on their Caen check-in.

Old fool that I am. Those young customers are right!

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35th wedding anniversary

Took my love to the French Horn at Sonning which is where we've gone for special do's for thirty years being as we had our place of work next door at Caversham for so long.

Michael does lovely Burgundy as he'll always tell you - at length.

Like that place I mentioned in New York last month, he'll usually have a couple very nice Burgundies by the glass for a reasonable price. The Meursault Premier Cru thingummy whatsit with the Dover sole and that green Thames backwater view... idyllic. Just like our 35 years, "never a cross word"!!! And all that stuff.

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We set up to label and bottle all Barbara and Cherry's 2006 Wyfold Sparkling

In our tractor barn at home. Which now has a drinks retail licence! (No, we are not opening a shop there. Or a bar. Tho' yesterday you might have been forgiven for assuming we had.)

The two generations of Laithwaites and Postlethwaites came together.

On trestle tables. Ben P. polishing the bottles (dusty because we've had for 6 months), passing to Henry L. operating the labeling machine; the simplest job but then it's his machine and due to a late night was all he could do, passing to Nathalie, Cherry and Barbara adding the 'collarettes', finally Kaye and me filling, sealing and stacking the boxes.

There are only seventy cartons of six but takes a while.

Wyfold Vineyard Quality Sparkling English Wine has a neat label; Pink for Cherry, Palatinate purple for Barbara, a bright green swoosh for the vineyard and a tree.

£17.99 a bottle, which certainly wouldn't cover the costs were the girls and their helpers actually to cost their hours of labour.

So when we finished we lined up eight other English Sparklers and a couple Champers including a bottle of our own Laithwaite Grand Cru Vintage Champagne; one of the grandest fizzes we do. Two or three of the others and the Wyfold were well up there with basic Champagne. Not the Grand Cru level yet. But... This is the girl's first vintage, so they will improve.

Confirms my - and increasing numbers of others - view that outside of Champagne the best place for fizz is little old, now-warmer-and-not-as-wet-as-it-was.... England!

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A fascinating morning's discussion about just how should we write about wine, describe it, give customers guidance and help

Amazingly this is the first time I have ever done any actually thinking about what I do. What I mean is I don't think...just write. ("Not an academic are you, Laithwaite"? Said the old Headmaster).

The words just come out. I don't have a formula and I've never tried to teach. Working with our young people, up to now my habit was to shout "Just bloody do it!"

By Simon says I must reform and encourage the others.

It was a very amicable morning. Helped by four wines we worked on; La Nantais, the Muscadet vs. Perla del Mar; Pamela Geddes' seafood wine, Madame F Languedoc vs. Barrel Monkey McLaren Vale.

There was agreement that we should do less of the floral tasting notes, (because wines taste different to everyone anyway) but more of telling the story of the wine and its maker.

After a spell in the tasting room with Justin and Thomas, leap in car to whizz down to Gloucester with Simon. The 'Rocketman' was talking to me, running the business on the phone, memorising his speech and checking traffic conditions ahead, all the way. Tiring just to listen.

At our cellars the party is set up in the car park, Simon does his end-of-year speech, (half in Polish!) I do my thanks all round to our crowd there - who do run a vitually faultless service on phones, packing and despatching.

Then the South African BBQ team open up and the wine flows, but.... immediately Rocketman drags me back to the car for another mad dash. He's got a plane to catch, I get thrown out as we flash past Theale, to get in my own car and dash on to 'Barbaracherry' Vineyard at Wyfold to cook a paella for the evening's work party.

Frantic stirring, ready - just - as they all stumble out of the vines thirsty and starving. Lovely party number 2. I stay for this one. They open the first bottle of Wyfold. The 2006. Justin and Thomas give it the nod. I think it's lovely... of course, it's my wife's! No, really is good! (But Laithwaites don't sell it! Not enough of it.) If anyone wants some though (£17.99) they have to talk to Barbara or Cherry. I can pass messages on. Or it's sales@wyfoldvineyard.com

Note to all customers in the Gloucester area. Whilst we don't have a shop at Gloucester because our lease for some odd reason forbids it, you are very welcome to collect orders from the Cellars. The address is Laithwaites Wine, Hurricane Road, Gloucester Business Park, Gloucester GL3 4AQ. The hours are 10.30 to 18.30. The phone number that will ensure the door is charmingly opened for you is 01452 651970 and the password is "Tony sent me".

It's a big place, you can't miss it. They are excessively friendly. Tours can be arranged. There's nowhere else you can see so much wine! And you save on delivery. Pass it on. Take your friends.

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Board Meeting on the hotel 'Stoop'

Quite interesting. Board flies home. On three separate planes! Thank you America, we DID have a nice day.

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To our new US offices in Connecticut

Cool place. Trendy. Old warehouse. Bare old bricks. Bare wood. Bare steel. Bare pipes and wires.

Perfect size though. I love an office where everyone can see each other. Last time we were here there were just five people. Ten times that now. But still feels cozy. I'd like to work here.

But this is a one day visit to meet everyone and learn what they are up to. Ade Bentham - who started in our old railway arch in Windsor 25+ years ago runs the operation. Seems to be having the time of his life. Because the business is growing so fast. It's about 20% of our business now. So wonderful to be selling wine in a country where the government isn't intent on strangling you with taxes. Incredibly low wine tax here.

However in America wine selling is v. highly regulated. Every State has different rules. So we ship to affiliated retailers to deliver on to customers. Quite complex. But we have a specialist team who ensure it works well.

We are now working with 58 excellent Californian wineries. We have only brought a couple of their wines to the UK so far e.g. Sonoma Stones Cabernet Sauvignon and Tangent Viognier. We will bring more soon. The Wall Street Journal Annual Dozen Case is perhaps the finest showcase of US wines there is. We put that together with them. I'd dearly love to bring those wines to Britain. If they have any to spare.

Meanwhile our new American customers seem to like pretty much the same non-US wines as our British customers.

Knackering but inspiring day.

Dinner at 'The Napa', Stamford. Speeches. The 'Special Relationship' particularly special this night. Fell asleep on hotel front porch. Rocketman took the girls night paddling in the sea.

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Very easy flight to New York

No great rush in the morning. BA delivered me sober and rested at JFK in time for a nice dinner out with friends at Daniel Boulud's Bar Boulud, just opposite the Lincoln Centre.

Light, delicious dishes with clever wines; they have 'specials' on wine as well as food. Why don't more restaurants do this? Tonight they had opened magnums of a '98 Côtes Rôtie. Not something you get often by the glass!!!

Lovely. Great night. Steamy outside. Then into taxi and sleep through the electric storm to Stamford, Connecticut. The delightful Chesterfield Hotel is a large clapboard mansion near the beach. Like staying with friends. Incredibly peaceful after New York. A great and welcome sleep.

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Had a visit from the great Oz today

Not seen TV's Mr. Wine for a while. Oz Clarke doesn't change. Lovely bloke who does not take himself seriously. With good reason. No, sorry. Didn't mean that. He's good value. And very, very good for wine.

He has a project to do with mending hearts which Simon, Justin and I decided we liked a lot.

I certainly like my heart a lot. Having been through the Angios / Bypasses / Pacemaker bits, I know all about dodgy tickers. British Heart Foundation I love you. Will do all we can to help with the amazing stuff you are working on now!

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It is 5 a.m. Woke at 4. Labrador snoring

Went outside. Just a small patch of grey light between dark clouds, low, across the river. Still. Silent bats in the silent dark. When I was on the river at Windsor as a boy I could hear those bats. I do have large ears. Now, I can't even hear the wife when she gets a bit high-pitched.

Last night she was all relaxed though. She drove down and we walked the dogs up to the pub for a drink. "Chardonnay or Sauvignon"? Well at least it's no longer "Medium or Sweet".

Then again, when you know that either will have but the merest hint of flavour why bother make customers choose. There must be more flavour in one bottle of Laithwaite's Sauvignon than there is in a whole case of basic pub 'Sauvignon'. Anyway just my little rant.

There now; was that distant cockerel one of those up at the Pub? "And you, mate!" No birdsong yet. Could just make out shapes moving towards me. German Battle Fleet? Scharnhorst? Gniesenau? Canada Geese. Half a dozen adults shepherding twenty or more babies. The babies twitter very quietly. The adults are silent and watchful. I don't move as they pass. Don't want to set that lot honking.

Now the birdsong has started. Two, three, then suddenly dozens. Little birds. No pigeons for a change. Swans come past. Also with young. Sunlight hits the opposite bank except it can't be; wrong direction. It is a very bright beam of light. Ah, on a boat, slipping quietly up river. Another old wooden craft for today's Trad Boat Rally at Henley. Helmsman, fag aglow, makes no wash. Unlike some sod last night who must've been going flat out, had me off my bunk just about. Thought I really was under attack.

On August 19th all who love The River should come to our Summer Fine Wine and Canapés Evening. (Note; NOT Canoes) at The River and Rowing Museum. Worth it just for the Wind in the Willows dioramas. Ask any of Laithwaites Friendly Wine People. FWP's, they will be able to tell you more about the evening and get tickets to you.

That's enough writing. Back to sleep. My turn to snore. Move over, fat dog.

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I found a new way to drink wine

In a 1906 Electric Canoe zipping swiftly and silently down the Thames on a sunny day.

Tess and Guy who are doing the film bits going up on our web (e.g Australia and more arriving daily) own this immaculate craft with its carpets-and-cushions-and-electric-lamps-and-tea-silverware-and-flower-vases-and-wine-coolers-and-wind-up-gramaphone-and-picnic-baskets-and-bottles-of-Laithwaite-Pere-et-Fils-Castillon-2007.

I just sat beaming and clapping my little hands in ecstasy like Moley first time out with Ratty ... oooh this IS good!

People with big boats miss the thrill of being right down at water-level. That's when you see, feel and smell the full beauty of the river, when you are part of it.

The Traditional Boat Rally at Henley is always a couple of weeks after the Regatta and is more fun because you get great rides on the water.

Thanks, T & G.

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Back on land last night for the Company's annual end of year party

Held, for the first time in tents in our backyard at Theale. And in our vineyard. Between the yard and the road - and railway - is our steep little vineyard. Despite passing it every day I'll bet that's first time many of our lot have been into it.

Justin had the bright idea of getting everyone to adopt a vine and donate a couple of quid to the Prince's Trust. Copper tags were purchased and everyone disappeared into this year's copious foliage to find and adopt their particular friend.

Apparently that little friend will now write to them regularly telling them how it's getting on.

We could expand this idea to customers, it occurs to me. But we'll need more than the 800 vines we have at Theale. Must have a word with Henry. He's got 20,000 at Marlow.

But he doesn't have any wine yet. We, on the other hand, toasted ourselves - we had a good year - with Theale 2004 Sparkling.

Excellent South African barbecue and paella from a firm called Go-Go's I think, from Windsor. Speech from Simon, very short thanks from me - was getting thirsty - and a good party. Rain held off.

What we chose to drink was;

Abbesse de Loire Sauvignon 2009

Scurta Vineyard Viognier Tamaioasa 2009

Millione Frizzante Rose NV

Kelly Country Shiraz 2009

Castillo del Ciego Rioja

Back to boat.

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Marlow

Take a few days off, go on the river and what happens? After three months’ drought (n/a North of Watford) the heavens open. Everything is damp. Me, boat, bed, dogs, bread.

Saved only last night by two gorgeous ladies dropping by with a bottle of Tatachilla Padthaway 2002 Longbottom Vineyard. Now there's a wine to damp proof body and soul! Not a wine but as HJ said, "More like a wine, a three course meal and a fat cigar all in one bottle".

Massively concentrated Australian sun, now mellow perfection, from the winery I most loved in McLaren Vale's Main Street (where I sent young Henry as apprentice) which, alas, is no more. Rationalised! (Killed by Accountants).

But what great wines it left behind. But... Michael Fragos is still making wine - looking unfeasibly young and fit - with undimmed passion; 'Steeple Block' is now the name. Try.


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The Thames. Henley to Marlow

Not going to be easy to work wine in to diary today. I have three days off. Have shipped aboard the old boat with a crews of dogs. Not sea dogs. Just dogs; Max, Snoop and Alfie the French b*st*rd, (Henry's dog). Useless crew. The gearbox is playing up. I have fast forward or nothing. Makes the lock manoeuvres interesting. Wine? I found in a locker a 3/4 empty old bottle of Gobernador Oloroso Seco which could've been here years. Great stuff, dark sherry, if you are a bit disorganised. It doesn't mind.

That and some old Hawkshead beer - also ancient I suspect. Will see me through til the wife and daughter in law turn up with something chilled and fizzy to accompany our meal of creative cooking from tins. It’s raining! Wow! Had forgotten rain.

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Theale. I was a dragon today.

New thing at the office. We - Laithwaites - have joined the Prince's Trust Million Makers scheme whereby young people in the company are invited to come up with a new business that could raise £10,000 for The Trust, and at the same time giving the same young people experience of setting up a business, and coping with all the problems.

It’s based on 'Dragons Den', that weird TV show where perfectly normal, successful business people are forced to act the way TV people think business people act; like be rude and vile to all those nice young kids. Which would get you bloody nowhere in real life. But, hey, that is for telly and here we are not doing this for telly so we can be normal, polite and helpful instead!

Our team had come up with a way of recycling a load of Laithwaites rubbish; specifically the empty wooden wine cases which we currently pay to have carted away.

They have made prototypes of wooden trays, boards and mats for the kitchen and plan to test market them very soon. You'd all like a beautiful Chateau Guibot drinks tray wouldn't you? Well watch this space.

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At home

Tried a half bottle last night; Le Serret.

Never been a fan of halves. Didn't think wine did well in them. Wine in magnums is generally better than the same in bottles. Halves, usually worse. They age quicker and get thin. Oxidised.

But am changing mind. We have been selecting wines to go in halves with more care. Substantial wines only. Wines that cope well with the rigours of being in halves. That Serret 08 was just nicely ripe.... Perfect for the pork chops from Caleb's pig.

We seem to have to moderate our drinking more. Never been heavy boozers. Well, not lately. But we always finish bottles. Trained that way. Clean your plate. Finish your wine.

The half did fine therefore. We finished it. But stayed awake til the end of the film. Last week we apparently watched 'Double Indemnity' but I don't remember even the beginning. But the brother in law had just arrived from Oz so heavy night.

Anyway, have ordered a box of halves:

Grand Gaillard Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Visionario 2009
Il Papavero Pinot Grigio 2009
Pagos de Tahola Rioja 2007
Los Rosales Chapel Vineyard Merlot 2007
Angoves Shiraz/Carignan 2008

Please feel free to try yourself at home... Call us.

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Ste Colombe home to Henley home.

A right circus this morning. I have a new Blackberry. A phone that is just too smart for its own good. It worked out I have changed time zones and automatically put its clock on an hour. Fine so far. Thing is, smartypantsphone, that it changes all timings in the Calendar by an hour. So I'm thinking 2.40 flight and its 1.40!! Luckily Barbara calls and sets me right. First panic.

Before that as Simon left, earlier, his taxi says "And I come back at 11?" I say yes. He does, but I have a job persuading him I want to go to Bergerac Airport not Bordeaux.

Halfway there we figure out he was supposed to collect Tanja - our girl-in-Germany - not me - from the LaClariere house up the hill. Second Panic. But clever M. Ali has worked it out and picked up the poor girl.

So no problems really... just me panicking. Well, it was a good party.

Bergerac Airport! A British airport in the Dordogne. Hardly any French travellers. Small, busy and friendly with a much prettier, less clogged up, drive to Castillon than from Bordeaux.

I always remember first using this place when it was just a flying club really. In 1983 we used it to bring in a whole 737- full of Sunday Times Wine Club Members for a tenth Anniversary special 'Do' in the Chateau de Monbazillac.

The Bergerac Town Band were wilting in the heat as that poor pilot circled round and round. We thought there was a serious problem and we were about to lose Hugh Johnson and The Dear Editor. But... it was just the dear Members insisting on finishing the too copious free drinks! That's air chartering for you! No timetables. Good wine!!!

As we drove up to the Chateau, daubed on a wall we read "Non aux Boeings". Well, that little campaign didn't work, did it?

And I write all this because the plane is delayed.


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In the attic

Writing Writing
Writing
Writing
Writing
Writing

How do you do a diary that's supposed to be about wine when all you do is write? Columnists seem to manage it. There must be a knack.

I sit in the attic when overwhelmed by deadlines. No time to waste driving to the office.

I need help. Really. Somebody suggested this during the 'finishing up the bottles' aftermath of the last tasting: they said it was now the thing to ask your readers to help. Apparently web-readers do. Generous spirited people.

So... anyone... want to write any of the stuff that's keeping me in the attic when it's so sunny outside?

Basically, we need a lot of new words for the website. But which words? If anyone cares to tell me how they feel the website could be more use to them, that'd be a start. How to navigate from one wine you like, to others similar was something that got mentioned at the tasting.

Here's an idea. Suppose you like Sauvignon Blanc wines. Fine; there's a lot of Sauvignon Blancs on the list. But similar... though not actually Sauvignon? Plenty of those too. Wines with a similar big, tangy, sharp, green aroma of things like blackberry leaf, nettle leaf, may blossom, elderflower? Well, not exactly the same aromas. But there are wines that have that same piercing, wake-up, edgy aroma and taste. There are wines which like Sauvignon are best drunk as young as possible so as to have maximum flavour.

We could cite you a whole list of Sauvignon-esque wines. Would you like that? Or how about a 'Sauvignon and Friends' special mix where you get 6 bottles of Laithwaite Sauvignon (your favourite) and 6 mixed Sauvignon-like other wines to try? Satisfaction guaranteed.

Could then do the same for those who have more sensitive taste-buds... for whom Sauvignon is usually just "too much"; we could do 'Pinot Grigio and friends'?

Let’s see if it’s true that readers of the web do like to help.
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Ste Colombe. Fanfares and Fireworks.

Flew Southampton to Bergerac. Very hot, Bergerac. Monsieur Ali delivered me to the house. The garden is struggling with the heat but the vineyards are loving it. Simon and Jean-Marc come for a swim before we drive into Castillon for 'Le Grand Ouverture du Chai'.

There's the Maire; Michel - not the same Maire Michel as last time, 'cos Castillon has moved to the right a little - but still someone I've known a fair while... used to cut my hair. Today he has come to cut our ribbon and officially open the whole Chai au Quai. Along with the MP, the Senator, the Police Chief and other notables.

Milling around were about half locals and half Team Laithwaites who were persuaded to come out for the event no matter how busy. Outside, admiring the river in fierce heat, or inside in the cool. Most of Le Chai is not air conditioned but its rear wall is the old town wall; massively thick and permanently damp, it keeps us cool.

Great noise and loud music. Do the ribbon ceremonials then start eating. In the new 'Dorgogne Chai' amongst the barrels and around the new blending tank which looks like a space capsule. You had to admire the Traiteur team working in the heat to produce tray after tray of little delights. The oysters were pronounced 'superbe' by all locals (who really know their oysters - "not easy in July"... from the Isle d'Oleron). There was super Spanish ham. And lots of little glasses with everything from chilled pea purée to snails. And all the Chai whites. We drank too much. But it was still baking hot as night fell.

Then after visits to the new offices etc sat down in the 'Grand Chai' to a wonderful dish of the tenderest pieces of rare beef, shaped to look like fillet steaks except when you cut them they fell apart releasing an exquisite melting fondant which was largely fresh-cooked foie gras I think. With a piping-hot side dish of potatoes in cream... bliss.

The cheeses had to be eaten quickly before they escaped... so perfectly ripe and runny. All with Chai wines; Pomerol, Margaux, St Emilion, Castillon, Roussillon. Pudding came with Mark's lovely Font del Bosc or Jean-Marc's Sauternes. Beautiful speeches in French by Simon, French and English by Clare, followed by a short, incoherent ramble from me. Too happy to make sense. But then this was my life's dream come true. And finally the great doors were slid wide open as, towards eleven it was bearable outside and fireworks were set off across the river.

Glass-clear water meant we got twice the display with the reflections. And so slowly it came to an end. Thank you Libby, Clare... and Anne. Simon and I sat out by the pool with a nightcap of Old Harry. Then he staggered off to bed exhausted for an early start home. I just sat. Overwhelmed. I had to get in the pool eventually with the night still so hot. Could've slept in the water. Luckily didn't, just went to bed dripping.

Finally came the thunder and rain and... It was cool at last.

I cannot promise an event like last night for every visitor to Le Chai au Quai. But I promise there will be Great Times as well as Great Wines to be had there by all who care to come and spend some time with us. We are talking not just visits, but Wine Schools, Tours, Food Fairs, Barbecues and I don't know what else. Like I think I might have said last night; "all this must never stop"... it must always go on... there's lots more to enjoy doing.

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Moira and Bruce Hogg won the competition we ran last year

 ...and got a wine trip to South Africa. Today they wrote to me.

"We stayed on the Spier wine estate in their beautiful 4star hotel. The people representing Spier gave us a wonderful holiday to remember. Spier organised trips to Cape Point, Table Mountain and a game reserve to name but a few. The main part of the prize was attending 2 world cup games-England v Algeria and Portugal v North Korea. We had VIP hospitality before, during and after the match in a suite overlooking the pitch.

We also did wine tasting while on the estate and visited their wine cellars and vineyards. While on our trips Spier gave us cases of wine to enjoy with our lunches and dinners at top restaurants. Very tasty wines to suit all palates and pockets!!!

I would just like to thank everybody involved for making this holiday/prize a truly once in a lifetime experience. Spier staff were amazing from the top managers to the man who drove the hotel minibus- everybody wanted to make sure we had a great time and we certainly did!!!!!!

Many thanks

Moira and Bruce Hogg



Wow! I don't get any of that when I go!

And I'm drinking their Sauvignon at home right now!

Must talk to Spier!!!!


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Bordeaux 09 tasting at The Arch ( Our 'tastorium' at Vinopolis!)

Helped out at a 2009 Clarets tasting for a small group of customers at our Vinopolis Arch last week. It was Clare Tooley our Bordeaux resident expert who organised and gave the tasting.

I had sent around this note a couple of months ago...

"I'd like to talk about claret guilt. Claret - Bordeaux Red Wine - is not what it was. Some here still make their wine like their fathers did. Most do not.

Made the old way, claret had a lot of hard tannins which - for as long as they lasted - preserved the wine and allowed it to grow to a beautiful old age. However these tannins gave the young wine a 'sandpaper' texture which made it physically painful to drink.

Made the new way - with riper grapes (partly due to warmer summers, partly due to better viticulture), with gentler extraction of colour, tannins from the skins, the young wine can be soft and delicious.

Some people have got used to drinking claret 'petits millesimes' - light vintages - quite young. But what I want to do is enjoy certain Grands Millesimes' - great vintages, young... very young.

Like the 2009's from around here. I want to drink 2009 NOW! This instant!

So...I am a GUILTY man. This is HERESY. And it will blacken my teeth.

So...?

I am prepared to suffer... if I can have more glasses of that gorgeous, thick, dense, black, fruit and flower scented essence.

And I can. Because I am a wine merchant. But my customers cannot. This wine won't be bottled for months yet. And when it finally arrives everyone will be told - with a lot of finger-wagging that they are not to touch a bottle for at least a decade. Is there any way we can change that?

Yesterday evening Barbara and I took a walk across our valley, past Faugeres over the border into the Saint-Emilion sector. May 1st. But everywhere was not shut; Carl Todeschini, his brother, his dad and grandad were doing a 'Portes Ouvertes' at Château Mangot. Plenty cars outside.

We paused, peered, got waved in, shown the new fermenting barrels (the latest thing; normal new barriques but with a steel 'porthole' at one end. In through this go part-crushed grapes and juice, then weeks later - after spinning the barrel daily - out comes an extraordinarily rich, chunky, muscular wine... and all its lees).

Then we joined the queue and got to taste a sip their various 2005's, and 2006's, all good; they are very skilled winemakers, this family. But then Carl poured the 2009 and honestly it almost knocked you over with its aromas. And it wasn't hard at all to drink. Creamy, really.

Strong, yes. Far too strong for the Puritans. Wickedly strong. But what an experience. Unforgettable. Its not a "this wine would accompany a nice lamb chop". It won't 'accompany' anything. Right now, it will flatten anything that comes near it.

This is not wine as we know it, Jim, this is a primitive, primordial, tectonic experience.

I wish all the customers could go out for a walk of an evening and have such an experience. I'd really like that.

Maybe they could. Would it not be possible to fetch over a few 2009's like this NOW? Pour them in our shops and at our tastings. No-one should be denied this.

I hope this 2009 is another 1990 like some made it here. That was a super voluptuous vintage in and around Saint Emilion from those who - like at Château L'Angelus - made wine the new way. I bought a case of Angelus '90, drank it all within a year and felt very guilty.

But...maybe I needn't have?"

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Theale

Worked on new wines, new lists. Very buzzy. This month's List is beating expectations. Next month's looks very promising. Most meetings now in the 'Wine Chiller'; our Cafe which has replaced the dear old Wine Bar.

Seem to have developed an allergy to offices. Can't seem to get any ideas. Needs more buzz. And more coffee. And wine. They were tasting possible new sparklers today. Some clever new ideas... like an alc5% sparkler that didn't taste low strength at all.

And testing some new - and actually rather elegant - plastic bottles for summer picnics.

Light, eco-friendly and worth a try I think. It's hard lugging wine up hills I find.

Couple of Anniversary Presentations. Gentle, charming Yohannes came from Eritrea nearly twenty years ago to study agriculture at Reading. The long war with Ethiopia meant he couldn't go home so he got a job with us running part of our cellars. He's never left, though he does go home occasionally. His family now live here and his two children are at university. He's looking out for Eritrean wine for us!

Sarah, supposed to become a lawyer 25 years ago came to do holiday work in our old Reading shop. Still here!

We have loads of new faces in Laithwaites but plenty very familiar ones too.

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This is the message I got Friday from our excited Winemaker in Chief (who now has his own Bodega in Rioja...)

Hey boss!

Not bad for a beginner!

J-MS (FAV WMKR)

Robert M Parker

Wine Advocate

Altos R Tempranillo 2008: 88 puntos

Drink: 2010 - 2013

"The unoaked 2008 Altos R Tempranillo is a bright crimson color with a fruity, black cherry-scented nose. Forward, spicy, and friendly, it is a tasty Tempranillo for drinking over the next 3 years."

Altos de Rioja Crianza 2006: 89 puntos

Drink: 2012 – 2018

"The 2006 Altos R Crianza spent 12 months in barrel. Medium purple with an expressive nose of cedar, Asian spices, and balsamic, on the palate it displays some minerality, plenty of concentrated fruit, and a few years of aging potential. Drink it from 2012 to 2018."

Altos R Reserva 2004: 91 puntos

Drink: 2013 - 2024

"The 2004 Altos R Reserva spent 24 months in French oak. It offers up an impressive perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, lavender, and black cherry. Spicy, rich, and layered on the palate along with some elegance, it is a fine example of the great 2004 vintage in Rioja. Drink it from 2013 to 2024."

Altos Pigeage 2007: 89 puntos

Drink: 2010 - 2013

"The 2007 Altos R Pigeage is made up of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged for 15 months in French oak. Purple/black-colored, it displays a brooding nose of cedar, spice box, violets, and black fruits. Dense on the palate with noticeable minerality making an appearance, it has enough structure and fruit to evolve for another 2-3 years."

'Puntos' is the same as 'points' no?

Well worth a try while we still have the 20% discount on Riojas.

Jean-Marc has worked for us for twenty years nearly (and still tells girls he's only 30) so consider these wines as really almost 'our own'!

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Beaconsfield, Windsor, Virginia Water and Binfield

Went round four of our shops today.

Beaconsfield, though small, our second biggest turnover thanks to a dynamic team. They just lost their Manager to The Arch @ Vinopolis but - sign of a good team - have done better since! Sorry Tom!

Windsor; oldest and smallest shop - it's where I started in '69 - are nervous that Majestic are opening across the road but determined to rally the customers to drum up more customers. So small you might miss it but a bit like a Tardis; 1000 wines in there and another 1000 plus gettable in 3 days. Lovely girls. And nice chaps too!!!

Virginia Water, just outside the entrance to Wentworth Club (which I remember from childhood as where I thought my father lived). Beautiful shop with a nice trattoria attached. And its own vineyard! You must go.

It was last day of the financial year and they were £600 short of £1million for the year as we arrived. So went for a pizza next door came back, they'd done it. Champagne all round for customers and staff. And me. See pic.

And on to Binfield which is Bracknell really - or Wokingham - John Nike country, where they have a lot of space outside and are looking at starting a farmers market. Watch this space.

It was here that we got the news my 'favourite winemaker' Jean-Marc had just got excellent Parker points for his own Altos Rioja.

He'll expect us to buy a lot more now.

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