At Dalemain House just off the M6 at Penrith, top end of Ullswater. The show is getting bigger. And this time it only rained a bit. The Lady of Dalemain; Jane Hasell-McCosh is the reason we do it there. I mean the house is lovely and ancient, the gardens stunning but Britain is not short of such places. What it is short of is Great House owners who combine being efficient and hard-working with great kindness, fun and generosity.
The family have been here forever but it’s still a home, not a museum ... Hugh and Judy Johnson came - because Hugh is President of The Sunday Times Wine Club and they had their tasting in the afternoon.
Laithwaites was in the morning. We had our suppliers like Andree FerrandIz (XV du Président) and Camillo de Iuliis (Villa Farnia). And alongside we had, amongst others, Hadrian Organic's sumptuous meat from up at Birdoswald on The Wall and Holker sheep cheese from the shores of Morcambe Bay.
Should we introduce farmers and their foods like this into a Wine Tasting? Isn't that a bit lowering the tone? Maybe. But it seems very popular and most seem to leave with a bag of something nice for dinner.
We have a home up here. Laithwaites all come from North Lancashire and Cumbria. My mother still lives in Cumbria. We've seen all the problems small local hill farmers encounter in this age of big-scale agribusiness. Very similar problems to those that confront our wine grower friends abroad.
So we like to help. And we can because basically if you are the sort of person who likes our wines and our ... what might be called 'Style'? You'll certainly also be keen on free-range eggs and organic lamb from the fells.
So help me grow this by turning up in vast numbers for our future wine and food do's ... All over Britain. Let's grow this! Eat, drink and be merry helping save the countryside we love.
Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Friday, 26 June 2009
I have been 'outed' – I think that's the term – by Jancis Robinson in the FT.
So I had better make a clean breast of the whole thing. You see I am not what you think I am; this bloke who runs a wine business.
Jancis has now told the world I am not the clever one. I don't 'run' Laithwaites Wine. Actually I never have. Except for a brief period in the Sixties when I was a good old fashioned, loss-making, one-man-band, nice-but-dim, British Wine Merchant.
Then I fell for Barbara. She had great legs and a great brain. I just wanted the legs at first. But you know how it is. The deal was I had to take the whole package.
Barbara married me, took over me, and my company and everything. Except, luckily, the wine. (She still prefers a G&T!) My mother - a rather dominant influence in my life - encouraged the match because she reckoned her only child marrying a very bright girl would get her some intelligent grandchildren. So my secret is out and it’s Barbara.
I have met many other excellent wine merchants over the years but none of them had a Barbara - except one ... David Thomas in Australia had one and did very well indeed!
So...
I have been left driving around vineyards buying and writing about wine. Fundamentally, that is what I still do, but ... things have happened. Big things. Not down to me always.
Perhaps I have certainly been remiss in not telling you about these things.
But I thought that a) you just wanted to hear about the wines and b) I was worried that you might go off me!
There's the size thing too.
I preach that in wine small is beautiful. It is. Small wine estates are best. And I have always seen myself as – and written in the manner of – the small, upstart, outsider of the wine trade.
So it is seriously worrying therefore, that Jancis 'outs' me as the biggest wine merchant in Britain (yes, but Tesco and Sainsbury’s do sell considerably more wine). I don't feel it. Nor does Barbara or any of our colleagues (but then there are 1000 of them … which means – in the little old wine trade – HUGE!) But I want to assure you I am still basically actually what you think I am; a bloke who goes round vineyards buying wine and delivering it. Just not all in one van anymore.
Getting The Sunday Times Wine Club deal in 1973 and meeting up with Hugh Johnson took us rapidly out from under our Railway Arch and into serious business.
Year after year we just grew - a bit, not a lot. Barbara always preferred 'safe and steady' so that's how we went along; slowly.
I'd have been more reckless but slow is OK when you just love the work anyway as the journey, you find, can be more fun than the destination.
Yes we had our health problems and had to hand over the daily running of our darling business to a team of professional managers. Can't say it was all smooth sailing but they certainly grew the business.
It was all organic growth too ... until recently we had the idea of buying some other businesses. Not because we feared them. More to get ourselves an injection of fresh ideas, talent and energy.
Today, the overseas companies are our new babies. They've given some of our best people the indescribably scary thrill we once had of boldly going off to start up a business from a tiny office where everyone sits on wine boxes and works madly, day and night … with no guarantee of success, lots of problems and hassle. But when it works!!!!! Sheer joy.
So, yes, our Ade is in the States running The Wall Street Journal Wine Club. Our Andrew is the voice behind 'Wine People' in Australia and soon Hong Kong. And there's Germany and Switzerland.
You can find Laithwaites wines in all sorts of places like Trinidad, Barbados, Denmark and Cyprus.
But I assure you its still very much 'us' and will be as long as our brains can cope. Then there's the next generation. They didn't always like our Company. But they do now.
Have a look at what Jancis wrote. She's a sweetie, really. Like to give a chap the odd clip on the ear but then that's the only way some of us get motivated.
Jancis has now told the world I am not the clever one. I don't 'run' Laithwaites Wine. Actually I never have. Except for a brief period in the Sixties when I was a good old fashioned, loss-making, one-man-band, nice-but-dim, British Wine Merchant.
Then I fell for Barbara. She had great legs and a great brain. I just wanted the legs at first. But you know how it is. The deal was I had to take the whole package.
Barbara married me, took over me, and my company and everything. Except, luckily, the wine. (She still prefers a G&T!) My mother - a rather dominant influence in my life - encouraged the match because she reckoned her only child marrying a very bright girl would get her some intelligent grandchildren. So my secret is out and it’s Barbara. I have met many other excellent wine merchants over the years but none of them had a Barbara - except one ... David Thomas in Australia had one and did very well indeed!
So...
I have been left driving around vineyards buying and writing about wine. Fundamentally, that is what I still do, but ... things have happened. Big things. Not down to me always.
Perhaps I have certainly been remiss in not telling you about these things.
But I thought that a) you just wanted to hear about the wines and b) I was worried that you might go off me!
There's the size thing too.
I preach that in wine small is beautiful. It is. Small wine estates are best. And I have always seen myself as – and written in the manner of – the small, upstart, outsider of the wine trade.
So it is seriously worrying therefore, that Jancis 'outs' me as the biggest wine merchant in Britain (yes, but Tesco and Sainsbury’s do sell considerably more wine). I don't feel it. Nor does Barbara or any of our colleagues (but then there are 1000 of them … which means – in the little old wine trade – HUGE!) But I want to assure you I am still basically actually what you think I am; a bloke who goes round vineyards buying wine and delivering it. Just not all in one van anymore.
Getting The Sunday Times Wine Club deal in 1973 and meeting up with Hugh Johnson took us rapidly out from under our Railway Arch and into serious business.
Year after year we just grew - a bit, not a lot. Barbara always preferred 'safe and steady' so that's how we went along; slowly.
I'd have been more reckless but slow is OK when you just love the work anyway as the journey, you find, can be more fun than the destination.
Yes we had our health problems and had to hand over the daily running of our darling business to a team of professional managers. Can't say it was all smooth sailing but they certainly grew the business.
It was all organic growth too ... until recently we had the idea of buying some other businesses. Not because we feared them. More to get ourselves an injection of fresh ideas, talent and energy.
Today, the overseas companies are our new babies. They've given some of our best people the indescribably scary thrill we once had of boldly going off to start up a business from a tiny office where everyone sits on wine boxes and works madly, day and night … with no guarantee of success, lots of problems and hassle. But when it works!!!!! Sheer joy.
So, yes, our Ade is in the States running The Wall Street Journal Wine Club. Our Andrew is the voice behind 'Wine People' in Australia and soon Hong Kong. And there's Germany and Switzerland.
You can find Laithwaites wines in all sorts of places like Trinidad, Barbados, Denmark and Cyprus.
But I assure you its still very much 'us' and will be as long as our brains can cope. Then there's the next generation. They didn't always like our Company. But they do now.
Have a look at what Jancis wrote. She's a sweetie, really. Like to give a chap the odd clip on the ear but then that's the only way some of us get motivated.
Monday, 22 June 2009
A hundred and fifty came to Bordeaux for the 40th Party.
Many familiar faces and many new ones. The weather was not kind. But as usual the bonhomie increased in proportion with the rain.
We'd picked Chateau Talbot in St. Julien as the start point for this Anglo-French wine-love-in. John Talbot led the English army into the final battle of the Hundred Years War in err ... 14 something or other. Unfortunately he lost the battle and we lost Aquitaine, but then he was 70 and not allowed to carry a sword. (Health 'n Safety been going longer than we think?)
We raised a toast to a portrait of the old guy anyway. The Chateau have just opened this new Salle de Receptions and we were first in. Not only that, they dug out several jeroboams of their 1969 which was ridiculously generous. Things got v. jolly at that point but I think we left the place as we found it.
Barbara and I had to scoot off early to rescue Henry broken down on the Autoroute. Why he bought such an old car I cannot understand. Cars are not like wines. They don't get better.
We'd picked Chateau Talbot in St. Julien as the start point for this Anglo-French wine-love-in. John Talbot led the English army into the final battle of the Hundred Years War in err ... 14 something or other. Unfortunately he lost the battle and we lost Aquitaine, but then he was 70 and not allowed to carry a sword. (Health 'n Safety been going longer than we think?)
We raised a toast to a portrait of the old guy anyway. The Chateau have just opened this new Salle de Receptions and we were first in. Not only that, they dug out several jeroboams of their 1969 which was ridiculously generous. Things got v. jolly at that point but I think we left the place as we found it.
Barbara and I had to scoot off early to rescue Henry broken down on the Autoroute. Why he bought such an old car I cannot understand. Cars are not like wines. They don't get better.
Friday, 19 June 2009
The Monastery of Santa Cruz lies in a valley between Villafranca and Tarragona.
Serious wine country. The monks always enjoyed their wine, clearly. Marti remembers as a boy being astonished by the size of the great wooden casks they used. Thousands and thousands of litres.
He says the local legend of the 'Scala Dei' - visions of monks ascending a great ladder to heaven was thought by irreverent locals to be linked to rather a lot of good wine.
We arrive bang on time as the first warm rays of sun hit the old stones. Just us in the monastery vineyards. Birdsong and buzzing insects apart, it's silent. Is that the sound of distant chant? A bell calling?
From those worn and battered grey walls in the cypress trees.
We do a rather irreverent picnic breakfast in the great courtyard and then head for home.
Great trip. It's very, very tough in Spain, these days. But at least their wine is better than it’s ever been. Not at all pricey, and getting ever more popular. Adios.
He says the local legend of the 'Scala Dei' - visions of monks ascending a great ladder to heaven was thought by irreverent locals to be linked to rather a lot of good wine.
We arrive bang on time as the first warm rays of sun hit the old stones. Just us in the monastery vineyards. Birdsong and buzzing insects apart, it's silent. Is that the sound of distant chant? A bell calling?
From those worn and battered grey walls in the cypress trees.
We do a rather irreverent picnic breakfast in the great courtyard and then head for home.
Great trip. It's very, very tough in Spain, these days. But at least their wine is better than it’s ever been. Not at all pricey, and getting ever more popular. Adios.
Thursday, 18 June 2009
Barcelona station was strangely quiet the morning after their Rome win.
Had Man U won, Piccadilly Station would be bouncing for days!
Got a car, got lost, finally found Villafranca and our little Cava family; the Rossels. Old Oriel is now 90, Madame Carmen a sparkling seventy something. Adorable lady; we had a great time while the photos were going on. Xato (sounds like 'Chateau') the pug dog played too.
Most Cava comes from mind-bogglingly huge outfits but this is just the family which seems to include those who grew up as extra children for Carmen and now all work in the business. Everyone joins in for a jolly celebratory alfresco party; the wine is now on sale with us. The cellar is old style; stacks of bottles and no machines. They grow all their own grapes for the white but for the pink prefer to buy their red Trapat grapes from the Conca de Barbara region.
Hard to leave.
Meet with Pamela Geddes on the seafront in Sitges. This delightful Scot started out making whisky but fell for Barcelona so switched (via experience in Australia) to wine and makes this delightful dry citrus-y Muscat ++ blend called Perla del Mar from coastal vineyards. Hence the sea link and yes it is a very nice sip, sitting in the setting sun, listening to the surf, trying to read the match report in Catalan ... which was how the long day ended.
Got a car, got lost, finally found Villafranca and our little Cava family; the Rossels. Old Oriel is now 90, Madame Carmen a sparkling seventy something. Adorable lady; we had a great time while the photos were going on. Xato (sounds like 'Chateau') the pug dog played too.
Most Cava comes from mind-bogglingly huge outfits but this is just the family which seems to include those who grew up as extra children for Carmen and now all work in the business. Everyone joins in for a jolly celebratory alfresco party; the wine is now on sale with us. The cellar is old style; stacks of bottles and no machines. They grow all their own grapes for the white but for the pink prefer to buy their red Trapat grapes from the Conca de Barbara region.
Hard to leave.
Meet with Pamela Geddes on the seafront in Sitges. This delightful Scot started out making whisky but fell for Barcelona so switched (via experience in Australia) to wine and makes this delightful dry citrus-y Muscat ++ blend called Perla del Mar from coastal vineyards. Hence the sea link and yes it is a very nice sip, sitting in the setting sun, listening to the surf, trying to read the match report in Catalan ... which was how the long day ended.
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
How much Rioja has changed!
Been coming since the Seventies but … over the last 10 years or so there has been a revolucion! Before, it was just 'Big Bodegas do Big Blends'. Now, there's this sprouting of small, arty new bodegas that have given so much work to the world's wildest architects. (Planning consent? Isn't any. The wackier the better).
But most good bodegas are now busy combing the hills for tiny ancient vineyards to be made into micro-cuvee 'specials' (something I asked for 15 years ago and just could not get). 'Lost' grape varieties are being found and resuscitated. It’s dynamic. It’s all 'go'. Or was until the you-know-what crisis thingy. Now? Well, we remain hopeful.
Feeling surreal. Sleep deprivation or what? Got to bed at 2am. to be woken at 6, I can't sleep, I'm in a Hollywood dream. I'm in room high in a castle, a NEW castle! Very comfy castle. in the middle of nowhere. Vines all around. Then desert. It’s Inaqui's dream. He produces films. Made 'Basic Instinct'. (Says Sharon Stone was the first to sleep in this bed! Mmm!) Built his castle, planted his vineyard, dug a winery, asked Jean-Marc to consult and just got the biggest haul of medals and trophies in modern times! Thanks to Jean-Marc we got here first.
Look out for details next month. A 'not-to-be-missed'!
Two hours later ... as the sun comes up I'm standing in the freezing vineyards trying to look like a film star while Yves takes a million shots! Sharon not here tho'. Pity. Then with Inaki we hope to do this deal about free trips for customers to stay here and get giant bottles. It's all surreal I tell you.
Amazingly, we just caught the train; 'La Vinguardia' (a beauty) to Barcelona. Still surreal tho'.
But most good bodegas are now busy combing the hills for tiny ancient vineyards to be made into micro-cuvee 'specials' (something I asked for 15 years ago and just could not get). 'Lost' grape varieties are being found and resuscitated. It’s dynamic. It’s all 'go'. Or was until the you-know-what crisis thingy. Now? Well, we remain hopeful.
Feeling surreal. Sleep deprivation or what? Got to bed at 2am. to be woken at 6, I can't sleep, I'm in a Hollywood dream. I'm in room high in a castle, a NEW castle! Very comfy castle. in the middle of nowhere. Vines all around. Then desert. It’s Inaqui's dream. He produces films. Made 'Basic Instinct'. (Says Sharon Stone was the first to sleep in this bed! Mmm!) Built his castle, planted his vineyard, dug a winery, asked Jean-Marc to consult and just got the biggest haul of medals and trophies in modern times! Thanks to Jean-Marc we got here first.
Look out for details next month. A 'not-to-be-missed'!
Two hours later ... as the sun comes up I'm standing in the freezing vineyards trying to look like a film star while Yves takes a million shots! Sharon not here tho'. Pity. Then with Inaki we hope to do this deal about free trips for customers to stay here and get giant bottles. It's all surreal I tell you.
Amazingly, we just caught the train; 'La Vinguardia' (a beauty) to Barcelona. Still surreal tho'.
Friday, 12 June 2009
In the car park 25 Hispano Suiza, cars were cranking into life as we left hotel at seven.
Dream cars that made the one Rolls-Royce look very boring indeed. On a Paris-Barcelona Rally apparently.
What did we do next? Can't remember because it’s now 10.30p.m. and we are in Vittoria taking pictures of our wines alongside 'The Best Pintxos (Tapas) in Spain (Official) and my brain is only on standby. Are driving to Navarra later, so need to husband all remaining brainpower. These pintxos are like edible jewellery. Mad food. Salvador Dali food.
I remember now ... we went to see some of Jean Marc's vineyards and then to his little bodega (in which he has invested all his life-savings). We posed together on his yellow cartons. Jean-Marc has set up his own operation on a shoestring so his (totally practical) cellar has as yet nothing too photogenic (except, of course the beautiful Jean-Marc himself.) His wine is more beautiful though.
Then I think we had breakfast in LaGuardia. Jean-Marc shot off back to Bordeaux, late for his plane as usual, and we went to visit Jesus. Bujanda, that is; the other Bujanda brother!
So we are visiting the other side in the feud. I love Jesus. And his brother. Everyone does. But they now don't love each other and there's a minefield in between and tact was never my strong point.
But we get through. We get given their new 'Inspiracion' super-wines. Rich exotics. Rare grape wines.
Then Xavier 2 (de Galarreta) comes to take us to Luis Cañas. Old Luis is now 81 but he is SO fit!
Obviously working bloody hard in vineyards is the only way - you get to be 81 and still outpace us 60-something kids, whilst maintaining a daily wine consumption that would probably get us shut down were I even to mention it.
He's just one of those wiry old guys who never sit still. Permanent motion. Lovely man. He started the firm sixty years ago; a small wine grower who despaired of ever selling his wine through avaricious merchants! So got on his bike (literally) and sold everything himself in Bilbao. But it was Juan-Luis; his son who built the now stunning business on these simple beginnings.
Go to any good restaurant in Spain today and you'll see 'Luis Cañas' wines. Certainly in the Rioja Top Ten for quality. Deserved success.
The Labastida Co-op boys; Xavier (3) and El Presidente (v.v. long-term suppliers) join us in Chucchi's Bar, Fuenmayor for end-of-tour drinks and then hammer up here to Vittoria. Smart and prosperous city, Inaki Rodrigo and Sene Gonzalez and their restaurant 'Sagartoki'. The Man U Barcelona match is showing but we must work on! I'm serious!
Have to stop now. Battery flat. Hope to see soon.
What did we do next? Can't remember because it’s now 10.30p.m. and we are in Vittoria taking pictures of our wines alongside 'The Best Pintxos (Tapas) in Spain (Official) and my brain is only on standby. Are driving to Navarra later, so need to husband all remaining brainpower. These pintxos are like edible jewellery. Mad food. Salvador Dali food.
I remember now ... we went to see some of Jean Marc's vineyards and then to his little bodega (in which he has invested all his life-savings). We posed together on his yellow cartons. Jean-Marc has set up his own operation on a shoestring so his (totally practical) cellar has as yet nothing too photogenic (except, of course the beautiful Jean-Marc himself.) His wine is more beautiful though.
Then I think we had breakfast in LaGuardia. Jean-Marc shot off back to Bordeaux, late for his plane as usual, and we went to visit Jesus. Bujanda, that is; the other Bujanda brother!
So we are visiting the other side in the feud. I love Jesus. And his brother. Everyone does. But they now don't love each other and there's a minefield in between and tact was never my strong point.
But we get through. We get given their new 'Inspiracion' super-wines. Rich exotics. Rare grape wines.
Then Xavier 2 (de Galarreta) comes to take us to Luis Cañas. Old Luis is now 81 but he is SO fit!
Obviously working bloody hard in vineyards is the only way - you get to be 81 and still outpace us 60-something kids, whilst maintaining a daily wine consumption that would probably get us shut down were I even to mention it.
He's just one of those wiry old guys who never sit still. Permanent motion. Lovely man. He started the firm sixty years ago; a small wine grower who despaired of ever selling his wine through avaricious merchants! So got on his bike (literally) and sold everything himself in Bilbao. But it was Juan-Luis; his son who built the now stunning business on these simple beginnings.
Go to any good restaurant in Spain today and you'll see 'Luis Cañas' wines. Certainly in the Rioja Top Ten for quality. Deserved success.
The Labastida Co-op boys; Xavier (3) and El Presidente (v.v. long-term suppliers) join us in Chucchi's Bar, Fuenmayor for end-of-tour drinks and then hammer up here to Vittoria. Smart and prosperous city, Inaki Rodrigo and Sene Gonzalez and their restaurant 'Sagartoki'. The Man U Barcelona match is showing but we must work on! I'm serious!
Have to stop now. Battery flat. Hope to see soon.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Sherry – real sherry – is made only in the region around Jerez-de-la Frontera in Andalucía.
The Jerezanos don't drink sherry like we do. And the sherry they drink is different. It's lighter, less alcoholic and fresher-tasting. So you can drink it almost as you would any normal white wine; with fish or seafood ideally.
I have an indelible memory; every night on the coast near Jerez, in Puerto Santa Maria they set out vast stalls of freshly caught and fried sea-life … of every shape and size imaginable. Girls will fill you a paper cornet of whatever mix you fancy …which you take to a bar and consume slowly with a few glasses of chilled light fino. And sitting in the warm and balmy sea air, life is very good indeed.
I would like to encourage all of you to try drinking fino sherry this way … because it is one of the greatest wine experiences on the planet.
But there is of course a teensy problem; the fino sherry here in Britain is too strong to drink like a normal white wine.
We think we have resolved this problem with Valdespera.
I believe this is a wine of a style that has never been drunk in Britain before. In fact I doubt it’s been drunk much at all outside the bodegas where it is made. For this isn't sherry … as such. Absolutely not. It’s just the simple, fresh young table wine, such as sherry is eventually made from, through the lengthy solera process… (Students; Wine Atlas pp 199-200). We wine buyers get to taste it when a bodega talks us through their sacred and complicated ritual. And I have always loved it’s simplicity and tang … and wanted to buy it for you.
It has taken twenty years but now I've got some … through Jean-Marc and his Spanish winemaker contacts. They agreed to let us have this “proto-sherry”. And if you can rustle up some grilled gambas or langostinos and you then open a fiercely cold bottle of Valdespera, you will understand that this is a significant addition to your wine-drinking pleasure.
The magic of this wine is all down to what Hugh Johnson calls the "protective, bread-like layer of the strange Jerez yeast called flor" which lies on the surface of the new wine keeping oxygen out and imparting that nutty, fresh baked bread flavour we all know well.
Thing is, when bottled (with the protective 'flor' removed) such a wine, in the past, just had to be fortified with a bit of brandy if it was to stand up to the rigours of transport to Britain. But today, in the 21st century they don’t really need to do that. So we have been able to get for the first time, I believe, a totally natural flor-affected white wine.
The closest table wine to Valdespera this must be the similarly (but not identically) flor-affected Vins Jaune of the Jura in north east France. Incredibly rare, and quite amazing, Château-Chalon AOC wines currently retail at around £34 for a 62cl. Clavelin! Haven’t bought any in years.
I have an indelible memory; every night on the coast near Jerez, in Puerto Santa Maria they set out vast stalls of freshly caught and fried sea-life … of every shape and size imaginable. Girls will fill you a paper cornet of whatever mix you fancy …which you take to a bar and consume slowly with a few glasses of chilled light fino. And sitting in the warm and balmy sea air, life is very good indeed.
I would like to encourage all of you to try drinking fino sherry this way … because it is one of the greatest wine experiences on the planet.
But there is of course a teensy problem; the fino sherry here in Britain is too strong to drink like a normal white wine.
We think we have resolved this problem with Valdespera.
I believe this is a wine of a style that has never been drunk in Britain before. In fact I doubt it’s been drunk much at all outside the bodegas where it is made. For this isn't sherry … as such. Absolutely not. It’s just the simple, fresh young table wine, such as sherry is eventually made from, through the lengthy solera process… (Students; Wine Atlas pp 199-200). We wine buyers get to taste it when a bodega talks us through their sacred and complicated ritual. And I have always loved it’s simplicity and tang … and wanted to buy it for you.
It has taken twenty years but now I've got some … through Jean-Marc and his Spanish winemaker contacts. They agreed to let us have this “proto-sherry”. And if you can rustle up some grilled gambas or langostinos and you then open a fiercely cold bottle of Valdespera, you will understand that this is a significant addition to your wine-drinking pleasure.
The magic of this wine is all down to what Hugh Johnson calls the "protective, bread-like layer of the strange Jerez yeast called flor" which lies on the surface of the new wine keeping oxygen out and imparting that nutty, fresh baked bread flavour we all know well.
Thing is, when bottled (with the protective 'flor' removed) such a wine, in the past, just had to be fortified with a bit of brandy if it was to stand up to the rigours of transport to Britain. But today, in the 21st century they don’t really need to do that. So we have been able to get for the first time, I believe, a totally natural flor-affected white wine.
The closest table wine to Valdespera this must be the similarly (but not identically) flor-affected Vins Jaune of the Jura in north east France. Incredibly rare, and quite amazing, Château-Chalon AOC wines currently retail at around £34 for a 62cl. Clavelin! Haven’t bought any in years.
Friday, 5 June 2009
In Rioja. Wine is people. Means families for me. Not businesses. Three families on agenda today.
1. The Martinez Bujanda family
6.30am: Out at the region's great 'Cru'; Valpiedra estate in the cold, grey dawn. Carlos and I crouched shivering in the cobblestones re-shooting the much-used old photo we took years ago when we were younger … had more hair ... and the sun was out! Families are not always harmony. Carlos and sister Pilar split with brother Jesus and shared out their vineyards. Sad, but the intense sibling rivalry is giving us quite amazing wines!
2. The Chavarri Family
The Chavarri girls; blonde Ruth and dark Maria run Pagos de Tahola and a few other businesses. Basques ... They ARE Basques. Don't wear basques ... maybe? Anyway the Puerto de la Barca vineyards been in the family for six generations – north of the Ebro river and thus in Pays Basque Rioja. Not Spanish. Very 'family'. Grandfather they adore. Parents still too busy. Very 'village' – everyone shouts hello. Get a tour of the church.
3. The Murúa family
Make Baron de Barbón. Julien, suddenly widowed just weeks ago is clearly struggling but son Xavier and his sisters support wonderfully. Vineyard tour checking out good sites and soils then the guys at the bodega grill some cutlets over vine embers. Distracts Julien. Much needed laughter. His 19,000 barrels must occupy him too. This is a quiet man who was the Bujanda's winemaker until he went on his own to huge success.
Evening Logrono, meet up with Henry and Jean-Marc down from Bordeaux. And friends. Street bar. Rowdy. Maïtena Barrero passes. And stays for tapas. Her father, Tony first introduced me to Spain long, long ago. He and Mercedes are both well in retirement. Will be up to Le Chai for the Summer party.
Ah! These families! Good wine couldn't exist without them.
6.30am: Out at the region's great 'Cru'; Valpiedra estate in the cold, grey dawn. Carlos and I crouched shivering in the cobblestones re-shooting the much-used old photo we took years ago when we were younger … had more hair ... and the sun was out! Families are not always harmony. Carlos and sister Pilar split with brother Jesus and shared out their vineyards. Sad, but the intense sibling rivalry is giving us quite amazing wines!
2. The Chavarri Family
The Chavarri girls; blonde Ruth and dark Maria run Pagos de Tahola and a few other businesses. Basques ... They ARE Basques. Don't wear basques ... maybe? Anyway the Puerto de la Barca vineyards been in the family for six generations – north of the Ebro river and thus in Pays Basque Rioja. Not Spanish. Very 'family'. Grandfather they adore. Parents still too busy. Very 'village' – everyone shouts hello. Get a tour of the church.
3. The Murúa family
Make Baron de Barbón. Julien, suddenly widowed just weeks ago is clearly struggling but son Xavier and his sisters support wonderfully. Vineyard tour checking out good sites and soils then the guys at the bodega grill some cutlets over vine embers. Distracts Julien. Much needed laughter. His 19,000 barrels must occupy him too. This is a quiet man who was the Bujanda's winemaker until he went on his own to huge success.
Evening Logrono, meet up with Henry and Jean-Marc down from Bordeaux. And friends. Street bar. Rowdy. Maïtena Barrero passes. And stays for tapas. Her father, Tony first introduced me to Spain long, long ago. He and Mercedes are both well in retirement. Will be up to Le Chai for the Summer party.
Ah! These families! Good wine couldn't exist without them.
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