Braiis, baboons and why senior buyer Helen McEvoy finds Pinotage isn't an old nag!

At lunch time I discovered what a Braii is - South Africa's best contribution to the culinary world is the BBQ and boy do they know how to BBQ. With incredibly fresh meat and stunning garden settings it must be one of the best ways to enjoy a meal. South Africans claim they have evidence that they were cooking on a Braii hundreds of years before the Aussies joined in the party. To me, they certainly seem to have cracked this cuisine and I for one am thankful for the years of experience they have in this field!

Today was also the day I discovered the scourge of the vineyards of South Africa. Whilst taking a mountain road with a supplier, we passed an adult baboon with a baby nestled under her tummy. I remarked on how cute the image was, only to get a scornful laugh from my companion. "Don't you know the damage these creatures do to our vineyards every year?" he said.

Apparently baboons have a bit of a sweet tooth and regularly purge the vines of ripening grapes, much to the disgust of the local farmers. Not an easy problem to solve, as baboons are intelligent creatures and will try their utmost to feast on the juicy fruit of the vine.

And finally, and perhaps most importantly, I rediscovered Pinotage. This grape is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and is a bit of a specialty of South Africa. Pinotage has not always had a great reputation. As one supplier on this trip eloquently put it 'how can you get a good result when you cross a race horse with an old nag.' A little harsh perhaps, but you get the general idea.

Pinotage is now far from something to be shied away from. It is in fact making a real comeback as winemakers strive to understand the complexities of the grape. Hindered by its reputation for a burnt rubber and rusty nail aromas, Pinotage has in the past only hinted at its potential. Viticulturists now know that a long hang time on the vine will unleash aromas of fresh strawberries and ripe cherries, picking the grapes early only unlocks harsh bitter, earthy notes.

I have tasted a range of styles of Pinotage, each well made and enticing in their own way. From soft juicy, summer fruit bombs of the younger styles to rich, mocha tasting lightly oaked wines with a bit of age. I am loving them all!

Perhaps at last South Africa has cracked its red wines - will Pinotage do for South Africa what Malbec has done for Argentina? Only time will tell, but for me, this is a race horse worth backing.

After much merry 'sloshing', senior buyer Helen McEvoy realises beauty is in the glass of the taster!

Today I saw such a wide range of wineries that it got me thinking. Does it matter if a winery lacks the aesthetics that make it a beautiful building?

There are many romantic ideas about the wine industry; people liesurely picking grapes by hand in their vineyard and then treading the grapes by foot in a trough. Families passing down the knowledge of their wines from one generation to the next. The rush of excitement you get from discovering a hidden gem.

Not many wineries conform to this view and in South Africa, it is possible to find a vast array of wineries at all points on the beauty scale.

Years of state control of the wine industry in South Africa meant that coops dominated the wine scene. Scores of farmers would sell their grapes to a large regional winery who would in turn blend everyone's grapes together into one wine. Coops still dominate the industry here in South Africa, but thankfully they have upped the ante and now produce some stunning wines.

Today I visited wineries that were built in old colonial houses, dating back over 300 years. There is no denying the beauty of these estates. Many tend to be nestled in the hills of the winelands and have incredible vistas as well as stunning architecture.

I also saw purely functional wineries, many of which did not own their own vineyards and were built on an industrial site. Certainly these lacked the charm of the colonial wineries, but does this matter?

The only way to decide this is to try the wine produced and in the name of research, this is what I set-out to do. After merrily sloshing my way through several hundred samples, I am happy to conclude that bricks and mortar do not make a winery. The care and attention that goes into the vineyards and the careful management of the wine maker are far more important.

The moral of the story? Never judge a book (or a winery) by its cover. South Africa has some delicious wines from wineries at all ends of the beauty scale. The quality of the wine in the glass has never been better and I for one say cheers to that!

www.winesofsa.com

All a matter of trust as senior buyer Helen McEvoy throws down the Bombero challenge at a perfect Cape tasting!

It's not just the wine in the glass that you judge and assess when you are on a buying visit, it is the company supplying the wine and the people that work for it too. Do we share the same values? Can I trust them to supply the wine I actually select to me? Will they support the business through customer tastings and staff training? Are they competent enough to keep the wine tasting as fresh as it does now for the whole year? Are they safety and hygiene conscious? Can they bottle and label wines to the standards we require? And so the list goes on.

Today I had visits that were at opposite ends of this checklist of requirements. I won't delve into details on the bad side, except to say you need the occasional shocker to put the good ones into context. Now let me explain why the good visit was so very good.

One supplier who we don't currently work with really came up with the goods. He had done his research. He had been on our website and had spotted gaps in our range. He had looked at the types of labels we use. He had spoken with people in the UK, knew our way of working and what our requirements were. He also had his crack team of winemakers prepare a tasting that was full of delicious tasting wines that filled gaps in our current range.

It was pretty close to the perfect tasting, when it got even better! He produced an artist's sketch book filled with label ideas and brand names. Some ideas he has even sent to a designer to be properly produced. "This is for you" he said. "Please keep this and look through it. Hopefully you will find something you like, but if not, we can create something else for you."

I was blown away! Great wines at decent prices and my marketing almost done! What more could a buyer want? Well actually, part of my job is to ask for more and so I did. "Make me a South African El Bombero" I said. And because he had done his research, he knew exactly what I meant. I want South Africa to have a 'hero brand' that is exclusive to us and that can be enjoyed by you for years to come.

Only time will tell if this supplier can come up with the goods, but you know what? I rather think he will.

Pop! But it wasn't the wine thatwas flat for senior buyer Helen McEvoy in South Africa

Today was a day on the road. I set out early has I had many miles to cover travelling from wineries in Robertson to Stellenbosch and finally to Breedekloof. Various unexpected obstacles made it all the more arduous - traffic jams, road closures and road repairs.

South Africa is basically a building site at the moment as preparations for the football World Cup in 2010 are hastily put into place. Incorrect directions from one winery to the next resulted in many wasted minutes spent driving up and down the same road numerous times before finally realising the winery I wanted was actually on an adjacent street!

Finally to set the day off perfectly, I was in the car with a supplier when we drove over a pot hole. Bang! We pulled over, jumped out and had alook. Yup, we had a completely flat tyre and, with a sinking feeling, I realised I had absolutely no idea how to change a tyre. My female companion was going through a similar thought process. Why don't they teach you this kind of thing at school? Surely changing a tyre is more useful than medieval history!?

Not really knowing what to do, we called the police. In fairness to the police force of Stellenbosch, they did not laugh at us, but did kindly point out that we would not be top of their priority list that day.

There was really only one avenue left for us to take. With over a hundred wines to get through that day, we couldn't waste time waiting for the boys in blue to help out. Instead, we played the damsel in distress card to a helpful (male) passerby. Ten minutes later with a new tyre fitted we were back on the road, both vowing to get our other halves to teach us about cars at the next possible opportunity!

Day one for Helen McEvoy on the road in South Africa - and a first taste of the 2009s

Today was the first of many supplier visits. My itinerary had been planned out to include visits both to those who have been with us for years, but also to potential new suppliers. My philosophy is that in order to be sure you are buying the best possible wine at the best possible price, you must benchmark your range against other potential new wines.

It was also the first chance I had to taste the 2009 vintage ...

Ahead of my trip, South Africans had cautiously suggested that this vintage was really rather good; my expectations were therefore on the high side. However, what a result! Without exception, every 09 wine I tried today was simply a pleasure to taste.

The whites were singing. An expression of pure fruit combined with a lively mineral note and long elegant finish - simply delicious. The reds were harder to taste, many having only that week finished malo lactic fermentation, but despite this far from ideal tasting environment, they too showed real promise, with a complexity far improved from previous vintages and a ripe fruit freshness that enticed the palate. Most remarkable for me was the removal of that earthy, rubbery note so often found on South African wines; tannins were soft and supple rather than harsh and bitter. Winemakers were at pains to stress that the reds would improve - brilliant I thought, they are showing well already yet this is only the beginning!

I had to ask why 09 is looking so special in South Africa and reassuringly, all winemakers gave the same response. A warm but not hot growing season led to complex flavours developing. A long ripening period let these flavours fully form and a lack of rainfall kept disease away. One winemaker cited this vintage as the best he has seen for whites in the 20+ years he has been in the trade.

What a start to my trip! I went to bed that night looking forward to trying more delicious wines the following day.

Helen McEvoy, Senior Buyer

So, what's it really like on a buying trip ...?

... Must be quite good fun, flying off to different countries to spend the day drinking wine?

If I had a penny for every time I have been asked this question, I would be a wealthy lady!

When Tony asked me to write his blog for him whilst he was on holiday, I jumped at the chance. This would be the perfect opportunity for me to set the record straight about what really happens on a buying trip.

I promise you it's harder work than you may imagine, and over the next couple of weeks, I'll give you a day-by-day account of life on the road as a wine buyer in South Africa.

Watch this space …

Helen McEvoy, Senior Buyer

After a hard day at the office, about 15 of us go up to Barbara and Cherry's vineyard at Wyfold for a spot of bud-rubbing!

Not as bad as it sounds, this involves knocking any unwanted shooting buds – they've just started – on the lower parts of the vine. One of the easier vineyard jobs. We also planted new vines where old vines had died. We reckon that mostly happens where our Lee gets a phone call whilst ploughing.

Round the campfire at eight, eating sausages and chicken legs, I pass round the Parigot . An odd wine. Puzzlement. But Libby and I absolutely love it. It’s Burgundy – real, good, dry, red Burgundy – 'Champenised' by this family called the Parigots. Been doing it for generations. Growers take them a barrel of wine and they fizz it up for them for their parties.

Why would you ruin good red Burgundy by putting bubbles in it? Many have asked. Me included.

Tonight I understood.

If you're having a party involving roast meats it’s just perfect. It makes you feel happy – just like Champagne – BUT it’s much better with a grilled sausage!

Dry red fizz – for adventurous types, I'd say.

One of wine's biggest problems is pronunciation. Being as most of it is foreign. And winemakers seem to love setting linguistic traps …

Was at Moët House today (no, not thinking of buying it, that's that chap D. Ageo. T. Laithwaite just wants a few bottles).

They were showing us their latest ads with their new 'face'; Scarlett Johanssen. And they said to listen carefully. Sure enough she actually says it; "Mow - ette" she says.

Apparently their phone lines have been hot with ribaldry about "how could you let this woman mispronounce your great name"?

But only calls from the UK. Because the French do actually pronounce Moët as 'Mow-ette', or ' 'Mwette' to be more exact. And the name in full comes out all in one bit as 'Mwettay-shondon.'

I was told this was because of those two dots over the 'e' - whatever they're called. And that the name is German anyway, like those of many Champagne Houses.

But then someone brainy I know says they've never seen two dots over an 'e' in German. So … it’s a mystery.

Won't stop the British calling for 'Moay' though, will it? It’s all part of being British.

My last blog entry prompted more "Why are you talking about The Sunday Times Wine Club?" calls from customers.

These are similar to the "Why are you talking about Laithwaites?" calls we get from Sunday Times Members.

That's probably because we are both – and have been for 36 years.

We've never hidden the link. Honest. But I suppose unless you read our stuff from cover to cover - and few do - you could miss it.

So how come there are these two wine outfits and I'm Co-Chairman of both?

The Condensed Story ...

In 1971 we were a one man/one girl wine merchant based under Railway Arch 36, Windsor. Not big. The Sunday Times published another of their exposés of fraudulent wine-labelling in Essex. I wrote a "Dear Editor, Well done, they're all at it. It’s not fair. All my wine is grower-bottled proper stuff ..." letter.

Amazingly he printed it! We got a huge postbag, the ST said "So do us a Reader Offer then"… and we did. Sold a storm. 3000 cases! Did another. Ditto. Some bright spark said "Why not make this permanent - like a club?". So we did. It went well. 6000 cases first week. But we weren't, of course, about to give up our own business (then called Bordeaux Direct).

So for 36 years we've run under two names. Sometimes we've made them more different. But the same problem always crops up. If you find a really great wine deal, and enough to go round, why deny it to a whole load of the people who keep you in business?

On the other hand we mostly sell very small volume wines so it helps to have two lists. There are always differences in the lists.

The main difference between Laithwaites and the STWC is probably the influence of Hugh Johnson OBE who has been President of The Sunday Times Wine Club since the start. He loves it like it’s his child and likes to do something different with it – sometimes wacky.

He was the one who wanted the trips and the tastings and the festivals and cruises and German wine. Being as he likes a party, does Hugh. I'm more of your boring stay home type apparently.

There is also of course the influence of the great newspaper itself. The whole idea of the Club was to combine our professional wine expertise with their professional writing/communication skills. (With Hugh you get both). I just do wine. I get someone else to run the business. I write a bit ... but not 'professional'.

Anyway the Laithwaites-Sunday Times marriage has lasted and I think we've done our bit to brighten up the wine scene. Taken wine drinkers to parts they'd never drunk before, introduced them to some great characters who also love to make good wine.
It’s a lovely arrangement. (And its become a model for other newspaper Wine Clubs around the world.)

Well, the best wines are indisputably made in small amounts by small farmers. Which doesn't sit well with modern mass-retailing. But works brilliantly with us. So we must do more. Save the good, small wine producers. And save the good, little wines. 'Cos the way the world's going, we really need 'em!

To Westminster for our Great Annual Thrash or Sunday Times London Vintage Festival as it is usually known.

Lovely sunny London Spring morning; blossoms, daffs, birdsongs, thin people running ... etc. And a couple of thousand Wine Clubbers ignoring all that to try and taste over 60 wines an hour. For several hours!

I'm Co-Chairman of the Sunday Times Wine Club as it happens. We started this show in 1979 in another place ... where we unfortunately spilt wine on the new carpets and I ended up in a fist-fight with a very drunk hall manager. Not a great start. Stupid place to put carpets anyway.

Next year we moved to the Horticultural Hall where the gardeners don't worry about a bit of spilt wine. Been there ever since. The Hall and us just fit nicely. Every April. Never seriously thought of moving.

So this was the 30th birthday year. And a particularly fine party it was too. We go from 11 a.m. to 2.30. Then the Members go home, we have a rest and do it again from 5.30 till 9.00 pm. for another lot of Members. Then it’s the same again on Saturday. About a hundred wine producers and five thousand or so wine consumers. Marathon? Sure is.

Other wine shows come and go. Why does this live on? Maybe because we make it affordable and easy for the hard-working wine-producer to come. Maybe because we didn't let it get huge; just a realistic number of wines. Maybe because, over the years real friendships have built up between the people who make the wines and those who love to drink them. These relationships last. And overcome any little difficulties like language. I said earlier it was like a very good party. It really is ... And always packed out to maximum. A thirty year party.

It’s well-behaved. You never see anyone being carried out anymore. Though we did lose a little Patagonian last year. But you send a young chap from Patagonia to London ... I mean! Culture shock isn't it? And anyway that was after the show when the younger people carry on a bit.

It’s not in the slightest bit intimidating. There is, it’s true, a special room where the very expensive stuff is. That could be a bit intimidating. But you don't have to go there.

I just love it. Never missed a single session. Though I do flag a bit by Saturday evening. But how can I miss any? All my friends come; Bill Calabria and the others from Oz (and they've still got vintage on!)

What makes a famous winemaker with a load of grapes still to pick, fly halfway round the world to spend two days pouring wine for Poms before flying straight home? Don't know, but it’s very flattering. They come in likewise from South Africa, South American, California and every country in Europe with vines. In fact, everywhere. Why? Because its known to be the best, most fun show there is.

So why not a Laithwaites Festival you say? Well, The Sunday Times thought of it first you see.

But then....why not? OK ... we'll do one for you!

It is after all Laithwaites 40th birthday. So why not a big party then?

Horticultural Hall again? Check back for details.